• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.73-90
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• 2014

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.161-173
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• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• Archives of design research
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• v.19 no.6 s.68
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• pp.9-14
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• 2006

There are many paintings describing butterfly in a folk story or old story but the word of Nabby is showed up because korea culture is subject to a Chinese character culture area. the word of Nabby is originated from flying features of nabby. It was expressed to an Hoju(胡蝶:swallowtail) or Hwangjub(黃蝶:yellow butterfly) in old book, Nabby or Naboi in Dusiunhae(杜詩諺解) issued in 1481, Naboi in Hunmonjahoe(訓夢字會) issued in 1527 and Nami in Simongunhaemungmyung(時夢諺解物名) issued in Sookjong dynasty(1675$\sim$1720). After that it was called Nabeui or Nabby and Nabby became the standard language but it is still called Nabbo or Nabbe in some provinces. The butterfly have been called as jewelry spread out through the world and people have been attracted by its meaning (love, pleasure, luck, long life and eternity) and its beautiful figure so that they have collected poems and paintings about it to appreciate its beauty or have made craft works and personal ornaments of it. This research is to analyze the shape and color of the using the application method of the nubi, which is used as expression method in this research, is suitable to express the beauty of butterfly's shape and the nerve of its wings and the basic material, which is light and have good drape, was used to easily express the rhythmical movement of butterfly's flapping. And thus, this research is to present that the above expression method is suitable to express the beautiful expression of butterfly's image and have unlimited potential energy for developing designs. Results showed that the soft outline of butterfly's wings can coincide with the linear shape of human body. It was also found that the characteristics of nubi method could be diversified as material expression method and the Haute Couture luxurious work could be developed by applying the mixed nubi method to costumes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.91-101
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• 2010

This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.