• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.73-90
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• 2014

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.161-173
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• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.9-14
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• 2006

민화나 고화에 많이 등장하는 호랑나비나 제비나비형태의 그림은 다수 있지만 한자 문화권이라 그런지 '나비'라는 말은 늦게 나타난다. 나비라는 말은 나불나불 나는 모습에서 유래되었다고 하는데, 고서에 호접(胡蝶:범나비), 황접(黃蝶:노랑나비) 등으로 나타나다가 1481년에 나온 두시언해(杜詩諺解)에서 나비 또는 나뵈로, 1527년에 나온 훈몽자회(訓夢字會)에는 나뵈로, 숙종 시대(1675$\sim$1720)에 나온 시몽언해물명(時夢諺解物名)에는 남이로 나온다. 그 후로는 나?????? 또는 나비로 불러오다가 현재 나비가 표준말이 되어 쓰여 지고 있다. 아직도 지방에 따라서는 나부 또는 나베라고 부르는 곳도 있다. 나비는 연인의 사랑 기쁨 행운 장수 영원 등의 의미와 아름다운 자태에 마음이 끌려 예로부터 시와 그림으로 표현되어 그 아름다움을 감상하거나, 공예품, 장신구등에 응용되어 왔다. 본 연구는 이러한 나비의 형태와 색채를 분석하고 수용성 부직포를 이용한 누비 응용기법을 적용하여 나비의 형태미, 날개시맥의 섬세한 조형미를 표현하였으며 가볍고 드레이프성이 좋은 기본소재를 사용함으로서 나비의 날개 짓이 주는 율동적 움직임을 용이하게 표현될 수 있도록 하였다. 이에 본 연구는 상기의 표현 기법이 나비 이미지의 미적표현에 적합함과 아울러 디자인 전개에 무한한 잠재력을 가지고 있음을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과 나비 날개 윤곽선의 부드러운 곡선은 인체의 선적 조형미에 잘 부합되어 의상과 인체가 조화롭게 결합될 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 누비 응용 기법이 가진 특성들이 소재 표현기법으로 다양화 될 수 있음을 깨달았으며 누비 기법의 응용을 통한 혼합기법이 의상에 적용됨으로서 오뜨 꾸뛰르(Haute Couture) 적인 고급스러운 작품으로 전개될 수 있음을 알게 되었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.91-101
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• 2010

This paper has the purpose of suggesting a development-method on the fashion products that would secure the competitiveness in the global markets through creating supersensitive practical products on the basis of developing originative fashion-goods being made of jacquard that is fine quality of couture. This paper has collected data through the cases of the developed nations in fashion, precedent studies and all the related literature on the subject. The results of this researching are as following: The first, it is expected that the necessity of developing new fashion products would be appealed toward the prestige group of consumers who are seeking for the fine quality and super-sensitivity in female fashion in Korea, and it is the current situation that the products made of jacquard are gradually expanding not only in the area of apparel, fashion goods and interior but also another areas. The current situation of the global market suggests the necessary strategy of survival, that is, the development of supersensitive materials and creative products which would be able to keep the high quality and lower the selling price through cost reduction. The second, the suggestion of the direction in developing the products of the female fashion made of jacquard has two points - the development of the texture that would realize a unique form and the development of the material that would be able to realize planar pattern and three dimensional pattern which are woven with thin and light materials with various solidity and delicacy through various techniques of mixing and three dimensional expression. The third, the expected ripple effect and utilization generated from the development of fashion products are as followings: As material characteristics of jacquard, It needs the specialization of various techniques and specialized production system in using jacquard, and the specialized technique and system would make it possible to produce not only the higher value-added products through expressing affluent colors and delicate design but also competitive products through cutting the process and cost, eventually, it would lead to the expansion of the jacquard market of super-sensitive prestige. Therefore, it is remarkable that various development of products toward the global market and the prestige female fashion market can suggest the vision that make the national fashion industry develop into the higher value-added knowledge industry integrating technology and culture.