• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.350-361
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• 1996

The objectives of this study mere 1) to investigate whether the different nonwoven fabric types influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pesticide protective pants, 2) to detect whether the different finishes treated to the nonwoven fabrics influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pants, and 3) to detect the relationships between objective wear performances and subjective wear sensation. Three types of nonwoven fabrics (T (Tyvek$\textregistered$), 5 (Sontara$\textregistered$) and K (Kimlon$\textregistered$)) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry.cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon compound for water-oil repellent finish (Tw, Sw, Kw). And each of specimen was treated with organic silicon quarternary ammonium salts and then treated with fluorocabon compound for dual functional finish (76, 50, Kd). Using the three water-oil repellent finished fabrics and the three dual functional finished fabrics, six experimental protective pants (Cl (Tw), C2 (Sw), C3 (Kw), C4 (76), C5 (56), C6 (Kd)) were made according to the same pattern suggested by the Rual Guidance Office. The wear trials of experimental pesticide protective pants were performed in a conditioned vinyl plastic hothouse ($30\pm1^{\circ}C$, $70\pm5%$R.H., 0.25m/sec air velocity). The measurements of skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity on the subjects were obtained by the themohygromenter. The subjective wear sensations were measured using previously developed thermal, humidity and overall comfort scales. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) There were siginificant differences among nonwoven fabric types on the objective and subjective wear performances, therefore, the skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity of subjects who wore the experimental pants made with Sontara were siginificantly lower than those who wore the others. And, the experimental pants made with Sontara were assessed as more comfortable than the others in terms of the subjective thermal, humidity and overall wear sensations. 2) There were no significant differences between two finish types on the objective and subjective wear Performances. 3) The microclimate humidity on the thigh was highly correlated with the overall subjective comfort sensations and the next highly correlated one was the mean skin temperature. That is, the higher the microclimate humidity and the mean skin temperature, the higher the overall subjective comfort sensation ratings which mean the overall subjective sensation was very uncomfortable.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1347-1358
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• 2011

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.9_10
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.189-203
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• 2014

In this study, Creative motifs using face composition of Jogakbo and Knot Symbol were developed, and applied to traditional Baeja of Joseon Dynasty to develop design contents of traditional clothes. As for study method, 7 motifs of new formative image that integrates traditional beauty and contemporary sense were developed by applying Knot Symbols and face compositions of Jogakbo with the use of Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 vector graphic software. The motifs were designed in contemporary image in face compositions like rectangle pattern, triangle pattern, dual rectangle pattern, vertical and horizontal pattern, pinwheel pattern, gojunmun pattern and free pattern by involving various changes like repetition, rotation, reduction, expansion and decomposition and using the colors used in the Jogakbo. It is desired that through this study, traditional Baeja may develop to bear traditional and contemporary image so that our traditional clothes design may become global. Also it is anticipated that this study will contribute to development of culture products of Hanbok like Jeogori, pants and skirt that require change of design in the global era while maintaining traditional beauty to appeal to the emotions of world citizens.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.173-188
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• 2004

Concerning the actual characteristics of Italian men's fashion design, the following conclusions can be obtained from an analysis of the works of Gianni Versace. First, regarding the use of patterns, existing patterns are enlarged, reduced, and transformed. Second, chosen patterns are closely examined and analysed before actual use. Third, the transfusion of unexpected patterns can be seen as the shapes of various combinations. Fourth, inspired patterns from art works or based on some exotic mood are also devised and used. Last, the selected patterns are used in an items of outerwear and innerwear. Furthermore, once a pattern is chosen, it is coordinated at the same time with a complete outfit of shirts, pants, suits, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.207-216
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to find out more rational way to manage clothing. The study is based on a survey of daily clothing practices. 112 female college students who are majoring clothing, textiles, and/or home economics have responded to the questionnaires. With the samples, frequency, factor analysis, discriminant analysis, ANOVA, and Scheffe test are pursued respectively. Main results of the survey analysis could be summarized as follows : 1. Female college students are found to possess 70 units on average. They possess more of casual clothes such as polo·T shirts, casual pants, and casual shirts (from the highest frequency in order). They possess less of formal clothes such as one-piece and two-pieces (from the lowest frequency in oder). 2. It is found that 12 per cent of the possessed clothings are not used at all during the year. The unused rate is higher for the formal suits while it is lower for the casuals. 3. The possession pattern is affected by clothintg life style factors : brand and economic factors for the casuals ; fashion and individuality factors for the formals. 4. The possession pattern is also affected by the purchasing behavior factors, purchasing price among others.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.624-634
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern of safety clothes used at flat or mountainous areas and to identify the pattern of safety clothes by conducting experimental evaluation of virtual wear. Three subjects were selected, based on fire fighters' physical constitution. A prototype design for safety clothing was determined after in-depth interviewing of professionals and surveying of Forest service staff and related agency. Wearing test should be carried out in the order of pattern making, virtual and real wearing evaluation. For data analysis, technical statistical values should be obtained by using body measurements of subject, frequency analysis and T-test. The jacket is designed to have a front extension and the entire length of clothing enough for wearer to put on it over ordinary shirts or sweater. The collar of jacket is of round type. Cyber reality enables to identify the movement and activity of virtual fitting model and to find out errors or problems in safety clothing prior to on-the-spot wear test, thus raising the precision level of pattern. There was significant difference between real and virtual fit preference. The results show that the virtual try-on system need the development of a specific style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.599-614
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• 2019

The aim of this study to provide basic reference data for the development of video contents used in pattern drafting education and to explore the possibility of utilizing YouTube videos in such education. Subject videos were selected using the number of views. A total of 596 videos and 28 channels were analyzed for the period July to September 2019 and the results are as follows. With regard to content, there were 27 pattern drafting items, the majority being dress, pants, skirt, blouse and sleeve drafting, although high-level content such as cowl, bustier, corset patterns were also available. Therefore, there is a high likelihood that YouTube videos could be used as educational material, especially as supplementary references to provide specific examples and easy explanations for difficult concepts or method, for students majoring in this field. However, as most videos currently focus on a few items, expanding video content to features a wider variety of clothing items at different levels is necessary. With regard to video length, it mostly ranged from 10 to 15 minutes. It is not advisable to create lengthy lecture-style videos expounding on different principles or variations in pattern drafting when developing educational video material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.736-748
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• 2017

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for clothing industry for active senior males emerging as a new consumer bracket in the rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted a questionnaire survey on consumers' wearing condition targeting active senior males. As a result of the questionnaire survey targeting active senior males, the outdoor wear items that they had the most were windbreaker jackets, long pants, and they said the most important reason for their preferred brand was wearing sensation. The matters to consider in purchasing outdoor wear were also wearing sensation and size. Consequently, the active senior males regard wearing sensation as very important. The measurements that they felt uncomfortable by body part were the abdominal extension circumference, sleeve length and jacket length of a jacket, and the rise and lengths of pants. To design the outdoor wear patterns suitable for the active senior male's body type, the pattern measurements of these body parts need to be modified. From the fact-finding survey result on outdoor wear companies, their measurement indicating method was the same for jackets, but each brand used different methods for pants. Based on the results of this survey, outdoor wear needs to be developed to meet active senior needs.