• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.573-585
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• 2021

This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.308-317
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• 2019

This study provided data for classifying and characterizing the lower half of the body shape for obese adult men in their 30s and 40s. Data of 492 adult males who were obese with a WHO criteria of >25 BMI were used for analysis. The results of the study are as follows. Six factors extracted from the factorial analysis as independent factors for cluster analysis were classified into three types. Type 1 (65.4%) had the lowest height of the lower half of the body with short circumference and length. Type 2 (20.3%) had the lowest height of the lower half of the body with the largest thickness, width and circumference from the back to the hip, but short in length. Type 3 (14.2%) had the lowest height of the lower half of the body with medium height and waist-height; however, the curve from the waist to the hip was the largest with the largest waist circumference, hip circumference, and width and thickness of the lower half of the body. This study will help to design a slack pattern that utilizes body shape characteristics of men in their 30s and 40s. In a follow-up study, we analyze the slack pattern and educational pattern by the company and study the necessity for a slack pattern for obese males.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.105-113
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• 2019

This study is to analyze the concentration of visual perception of the subject through the eye-tracking experiments targeting popular characters and to investigate it is effective to highlight which part of the character in inducing consumers' interest and curiosity. As a result of the study, the subjects paid more attention to the face than the character's body, and also noted a little attention to auxiliary elements such as pants, tees, shoes, and whiskers. These results mean there is clearly different factor in which the subject's gaze on the character frequently stays and does for a long time. Therefore, the designers should recognize the differences of the concentration of visual perception by character components as a differentiating factor to feel the emotional satisfaction such as the user's interest, empathy, and immersion in the character and actively reflect it when developing the character design. In addition, there was a difference in the visual perception concentration of each of the auxiliary elements, and if careful research is done on whether the influence factors are also due to individual characteristics or another influential factors, it will be a wider study on character design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.665-676
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• 2019

This study provides basic data for future design proposals aimed at improving the uniforms and bullet/stab proof garments of local police. An analysis was conducted on various aspects of the uniforms used until 2015 and those newly introduced in 2016. Current bullet/stab proof garments were compared with old stab proof garments; in addition, police force posting on the internal SNS were analyzed in regards to the improvement needs for uniforms. Analyses results are as follows. As for the uniforms, convenience was improved by eliminating the necktie, and the four trigrams embroidery was added to emphasize the Korean identity. Cargo-style pants were added for enhanced activity, and the color of the top was changed to turquoise to improve discrimination. In terms of material, durable polyester was used heavily in outside uniforms that were likely to be damaged during work; consequently, the percentage of elastic materials was increased for improved activity. The price showed a high increase rate due to inflation and the use of functional new materials. Complaints and demands for improvement continued despite various modifications made to uniforms and suggested a strong need for further improvements that reflected the opinions of wearers. As for the protective garments, there was a limit to reducing the final weight despite the use of lightweight material because of protection performance enhancements made from expanding the protection surface area. Also, considering further decrease in supply rate, it was deemed necessary to secure budget for full supply of bullet/stab proof garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.606-617
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• 2019

The present study newly developed a firefighters' protective jacket and pants using a Nomex honeycomb structured layer (HPC) in cases of being exposed to flashover or flameover. This study evaluated the protective and comfort functions of an HPC compared to the current KFI firefighters' protective clothing (FPC). The results are as follows. First, thermal protective performance (TPP) of fabric layers was 2.75 times greater for HPC than FPC at $125kW/m^2$. Second, the predicted second and third degree burn areas were smaller for HPC than FPC when using a flame manikin. Third, thermal insulation using a thermal manikin was 0.2 clo greater for HPC than FPC. Fourth, there were no marked differences in maximal performance, mobility, and microclimate temperature/humidity between FPC and HPC through human wear trials. The thermal insulation of HPC was higher than that of FPC; however, any negative effect of HPC thermal insulation on the comfort functions for firefighters was not found. In conclusion, the newly-developed HPC provided more protection in reducing burn injuries from $125kW/m^2$, while no negative impact on maximal performance, mobility and thermal comfort functions of firefighters, which is appropriate for quick-evasive tactics at the flashover, flameover or back draft fires.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.726-743
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• 2021

This study tried to examine the fashion design and style of representative K-Pop boy groups BTS and SEVENTEEN appearing on music shows. The data collection was conducted on 4 music programs(Inkigayo, Music Bank, Show! Music Core, M COUNTDOWN) and YouTube(www.youtube.com) for each boy who worked for 5 years from January 2016 to December 2020. Result analysis utilized the stage scenes and music videos of the title songs of BTS and Seventeen. As for the fashion design and style characteristics of BTS, it was found that overall, the color, pattern, and decoration of the bottom were minimized, and the style was changed mainly by the top of the denim pants. As for Seventeen's fashion design and style characteristics, it was analyzed that plain simple slacks, bright and modest chromatic colors, and geometric and stylistic patterns with street retro sensibility were relatively emphasized, and natural and romantic images appeared a lot. As a result of examining the differences in fashion design and style characteristics between BTS and Seventeen, significant differences were found in color, tone, color scheme, material type, material combination, detail, trimming, pattern, accessories, and fashion image. Overall, it was found that both groups minimized the use of decorative elements such as patterns, details, and trimmings.