• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.153-178
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• 2022

This study analyzes the traces of East-West cultural exchange focusing on the palmette pattern expressed on Sassanid Persian and Silla Korean carpets. The results of the study are as follows. The palmette, which originated in ancient Egypt, is an imaginary flower made up of the transformation of a lotus, which combined with the Mesopotamian quadrant (四分法) and expanded to a four-leaf palmette and further to an eight-leaf palmette by applying the octant (八分法). The palmette, which was brought to Assyria, Achaemenid Persia, Parthia, Greece, and Rome, can be seen lavishly decorated with plant motifs characteristic of the region. Sassanid Persia inherited the tradition of the palmette pattern, which applied the quadrant and octant seen in several previous dynasties. On the one hand, it has evolved more splendidly by combining the twenty or twenty-one-leaf palmette and the traditional pearl-rounded pattern decoration of Sassanid Persia. These Sassanid Persian palmette patterns can be found through the palmette patterns depicted on the ceilings of the Dunhuang Grottoes located on the Silk Road. The palmette pattern of the Dunhuang Grottoes was expressed in the form of a fusion of Persian Zoroastrianism, Indian Buddhism, and indigenous religions. In the Tang Dynasty, it shows the typical palmette pattern of four and eight leaves in the medallion composition, which were mainly seen in Persian palmettes. The palmette pattern handed down to Silla can be found on a Silla carpet, estimated to be from around the 8th century, in the collection of Shoso-in (正倉院), Japan. The Silla carpet shows a unique Silla style using motifs such as peonies and young monks, which were popular in Silla while following the overall design of the Persian medallion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.63-71
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• 2001

The symbol of the sacred tree represents the world tree. They were influenced by Tree worship in Northern mounted nomadic groups, and the first is quite obvious, that the sacred tree is a palm tree. The Assyrian sacred tree possesses characteristics, making the tree iconographic and rather artificial. The tree typically has a thin trunk arranged in two or three tiers. Each tier is separated by horizontal plates or bands. The top of the tree is crowned with a palmette form. Wavy streamers emanate from the tree abd terminate in palmettes in a criss cross fashion. The central trunk is topped with a palmette and surrounded the trunk with palmettes emphasizing a link to date trees. The number of branches on the tree is limited, and there are usually seven, fifteen or thirty branches. The connection of these numbers with those of the week, and of the lunar wax and wane is so obvious. The branches on the tree may have indeed represented a calender of some sort. Mainly based on the excavated tomb articles of the three kingdoms and referred to Chinese and Japanese ones, Sacred Tree pattern showed that was lightly influenced by the times and area, but was slowly changed and developed to different types through those each ages generally. The Sacred Tree type was three part in according to the wavy streamers emanate from the tree abd, Sacred tree type I, Sacred tree type II, Sacred tree type III[the Mountain(; 山)-typed piled up Sacred Tree].

• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2003

The culture interest regarding the new area causes an effect even in change of fashion and that result Mongol area where it is area other than Japan, China and India and it is having compromised beauty raised it's head. Mongol is in Noin-ula area which is a it's former self of the Hun's. There is to a textile pattern which was used not only the textile pattern which has the feature of Scythian system but also the textile pattern which has the feature of China was used. The feature of Noin-ula's the textile pattern is as follows. Noin-ula's textiles used Scythian system of animal pattern, vine pattern, palmette pattern, thunder pattern, spiral pattern, shape of diamond pattern. Scythian system of animal pattern and vine pattern proves the interchange with the countries to the west of China. Noin-ula's textile pattern is applied to the designer's work of art. The designers are John Galliano, Etro, Chloe, Emmanuel Ungaro and so on, who express the modern ethnic style design. Because the more developed the modern society is the more embossed feature of intention for the race and the fork art, I think that Ethnic style design is applied to modern sensitive and ethnic style in the future.

• 한국안광학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.13-17
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• 2008

목적: 안경의 기능이 점차 문화적, 심리적, 사회학적 측면으로 확대 되는 점에 주목하고, 그러한 요구에 맞는 디자인을 위해 전통문양을 접목하는 방법 연구. 방법: 전통문양의 상징성을 이해하고, 그 중에서 세계적인 보편성을 지닌 팔메트 문양 넝쿨장식문양 등의 문양연구와 전통재료기법의 하나인 자수기법, 조각보 기법 등을 안경의 템플과 안경 클리너 등에 현대적으로 재구성하여 응용하는 방법을 제시하였다. 결과: 세계화는 문화의 교차적 소비현상을 빠르게 촉진시키고 있다. 그러므로 세계적인 보편성위에 그 민족의 미적 특질이 잘 드러난 전통문양을 활용한 안경디자인은 오히려 세계 시장의 이러한 속성에 적응하여 성장할 수 있는 새로운 자원이 된다. 이 논문에서는 전통문양 및 전통기법을 활용하여 현대화함으로써 안경 디자인의 문화적 가치를 발견하고, 현대 소비자의 문화적 욕구와 접목할 수 있는 새로운 시각을 제안하였다. 결론: 안경은 소비자의 사회적 지위를 표상하고, 현재의 심리적 언어로써 하나의 스타일을 표현해내는 도구가 되었다. 그러므로 전통문양을 활용한 안경디자인은 소비자의 문화적 소비욕구를 충족시켜주는 계기를 마련해주며, 기존의 안경디자인이 지니고 있는 서구 문화중심의 디자인 개념을 동양적인 미감으로 전환시키는 계기를 마련한다.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.