• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.363-371
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• 1988

The present paper mainly conerns with the four controversial issues: the exact period in which the Cholik was introduced into Korea, the morphological characteristics, the phonological and semantic aspects of the term itself. First, upon the political and serial ground, the Cholik was introduced at the later part of mid-koryo dynasty. Second, the original form of 'Cholik' was modeled after the Mongolian 'pyok-jok-po', an outwear with pleated skirt. Third, the term 'cholik' was derived from Mongolian 'terlig'. It came through China with the Chinese letters but the term maintained the Mongolian sound. The variety of the present pronunciations like 'chorik', 'chonik', 'chomni' and various notations in Chinese letters could be attributed to different phonological changes and analogy. Last, th original meaning of cholik was somewhat similar to 'militia' or 'soldier', but the social function of the wearer gradually discolored to indicate only the costume for lower officials or the military uniform.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

This paper reports on a study of the morphological design trends and characteristics of vests in contemporary fashion for women. A review of the relevant literature was conducted, and visual images found in various collections displayed in local and foreign papers and on internet web sites over the period 2001 to 2009 were analysed. The analysis of the vest designs showed that 78% had no collar, 41.8% were waist-length, 70.5% used general fabrics of various colors and patterns, 98.2% had a single fastening system, 69.8% used buttons for fastening, and 67.4% were intended to be worn as outwear over inner wear items such as a shirt or blouse. The trends in vest design were characterized by the expression of an androgynous image, by creative diversity and by an escape from traditional forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.337-354
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• 1994

The main purpose of the study were to investigate a selection motive of clothing and feeling of wearing of Korean junior, high school & university students. The results were as follows; 1. For underwear, the body appearance and hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in a selection motive of clothing. And the property matter and hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 2. For outwear, a functionality and the psychological aspect were shown as important factors in a selection motive of clothing. And a exercise and psychological aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 3. For pants, the functionality was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing and the exercise aspect was shown as an important factors in the feeling of wearing. For skirt. the psychological aspect was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing and feeling of wearing. 4. The hygienical aspect was shown as an important factor in a selection motive and the feeling of wearing of clothing for comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.79-93
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• 2005

'Chunhyangjeon' was written by an anonymous author in the mid-period of Chosun Dynasty. The personalities of characters and the styles of dress of men in 'Chunhyangjeon' recreated their clothing to one that is more similar to the descriptions in the literature text can be described as follows. Lee, Mongyong was a young man, but he was a man of integrity and honor. In outwear he wore 'Hat(Heulip)' and 'Dopo' and Taesahae. When he earned his title, he wore 'Pokdu' with flowers and 'Angsam(ceremonial robe)'. After he became a secret royal inspector, in order to disguised on himself as a poor man he wore worn-out 'Heuklip' and 'Dopo' and Jipsin. Bangja who was a servant of Lee, Mongyong wore 'Beonggeoji' and 'Kwaeja' and 'Mituli'. Byun, Hacdo was a rash and greedy character, he wore 'Oklolip' and 'Cheopli' and 'mokhwa' when he was on the way to his post. Yeokjol was low grade official wore 'Jeonlip' and 'Cheopli' and 'Red shoulder band' and 'Mituli'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.199-209
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to examine the effect of the 1997 economic crisis on Korean households' clothing expenditures at different incom levels. The raw data sets from the Family Income and Expenditure Survey of 1994, 1996, 198, and 2000 produced by the National Statistical Office were used. Based on their income data, subjects were divided into three groups: upper-income (upper 30%), low-income(lower 30%), and middle-income (the 40% in between). The main results are as follows : 1) the income, consumption expenditures (ConE) and clothing expenditures (CloE) of Korean households increased in 1996, decreased in 1998 and recovered in 2000. Although the proportion of ConE to income increased after the economic crisis, CloE/ConE decreased. Clothing expenditures displayed an asymmetric pattern over the economic crisis : the clothing expenditures decreased severely and quickly during the groups. 2) Compared to other household expenditures, clothing expenditure patterns were unique and of clothing categories, the propottion of expenditures for outwear decreased considerably compared to other categories after the economic crisis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.106-113
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• 2012

This study intend to research color preferences about innerwear(specially brassiere) and draw a comparison of color preference's differences among the Korea, China and Hong Kong. The subjects of study are female students of universities in Korea, China and Hong Kong. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 14.0, and the results are as follows. Female students of universities in Korea, China and Hong Kong are distinguished from wearing color and preference color of innerwear. Korea and China female students prefer skin color to the other color but most of Hong Kong female students prefer black color. In case of red color, Korea female students don't select a red color as a preference color but even if some students select a red color, China and Hong Kong females prefer a red color. The traditional color opinions of Korea, China and Hong Kong are the same as a Yin-Yang School. But these days they have different color opinions because of cultural, political and ideological elements. Korea females like skin and white colors because these colors don't appear on the outwear surface. Korean have an inclination toward conservatism and use the color according to ideological and deceptive orders of the Confucianism. Hong Kong have a different color preference from China because they have chances of receiving the other cultures for example United Kingdom, Japan and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.170-181
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of knit structure and knit density (machine tightness factor) on the dimensional properties and K1-4 values of weft-knitted fabrics followed over eleven cycles of mechanical relaxation to provide the basic data for constructing weft-knitted fabrics for outwear with excellent dimensional stability The eighteenth weft-knitted fabrics were produced with different knit structure (1$\times$1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single pique, crossmiss interlock) and machine tightness factor (loose, medium, tight) for this study. Dimensional properties such as width, lengh, area shrinkage and dimensional parameter (K) of eighteenth knitted fabrics including thickness and bulk property were measured. The results were as follows; 1. The dimensional behavior of the Ix1 rib and interlock in relaxation cycles was anisotropic, i.e., length shrinkage was usually associated with a width expansion, whereas the other weft-kntted fabrics which have tuck or miss loops in the knit structure behaved isotropically, i.e., length and width shrinkages were usually found. It was proposed that the difference in dimensional behavior between these structures was due to the dissimilar nonrelaxed geometrical shapes of the individual structural units forming these weft-knitted structures. The mechanical relaxation shrinkage of weft-knitted cotton fabrics was dependent on the tightness of construction. For a range of fabrics knitted on this study, an increase in fabric tightness caused a decrease in the length shrinkage of the fabric accompanied by an increase in its width shrinkage.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.332-340
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• 2019

Due to the change in lifestyle, new sensible materials for sportswear and outdoor are needed. This study is conducted in order to obtain the data for sensible materials through nylon twist process. 1-step nylon twisting machine was used to set the optimum twist process. DSC measurements of twisted nylon yarn showed crystallization temperatures around 170℃ and melting temperatures around 220℃. Nylon 40D/13F DTY and Nylon 50D/48F DTY showed optimal results at 160℃, 1,500 T/M(Turns per meter), and Nylon 70D/68F DTY at 160℃, 1,200 T/M(Turns per meter) after 1-step twist process. Also, Nylon 40D/13F DTY was confirmed to have inter-layer property deviation of ±5 percent.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.21-39
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• 1989

This paper is to determine the clothing and footwear of urban household consumption expenditures and an analysis of historical data from relevant literature. Particularly, time-series and cross sectional analysis techniques are adopted in analysing the patterns of clothing and footwear consumption expenditures of urban households. Finally, this paper estimates consumption expenditures in the future by comparing these revealed data with the Korea and Japan. Annual Report on the family Income and Expenditure Survey and M.R.A. in S.P.S.S. were used. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. The proportion of the clothing and footwear expenditure has decreased with the increase of income in urban household during 1976-1987. 2.1) Household consumption function by Income group, the Lower group is higher than the other group. 2) Household consumption function by Occupation of household head. Income elasticity estimation in administrative managerial workers is higher than the other group. 3) Household consumption function by Family size. Income elasticity estimation in 6 Persons is higher than the other group. But 4 Persons is higher in 1986. 4) Household consumption function by Age of household head. Income elasticity estimation in 50 Years and over is higher than the other group. 3. Comparison of characteristics of clothing and footwear consumption expenditures in Korea and Japan were M.R.A. Generally, the priority correlation order for Korea is Outwear, Sweaters and Shirt, Other clothing. For Japan, the order is Sweaters and Shirts, Underwear, Services.