• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.41-48
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• 2018

This thesis is a paper comparing Adolf Loos and Antoni Gaudí's 'theory of ornament', based on their text. Adolf Loos and Antoni Gaudí are architects who had worked from late 19c, just before advent of Modernism architecture, to early 20c. When 'ornament' had started to be excluded from architecture according to development of industrialization and capitalism, Loos and Gaudí have both written about 'ornament.' Generally, Loos is known to have possessed rational mind and designed modern building with no ornament, and Gaudí is known to have possessed romantic mind and used splendid ornaments. For those reasons, it was assumed that two architects would have contrast opinions regarding ornaments. However, analysis of two architects' major text reveals that their theories of ornament are fundamentally analogous. Loos and Gaudí both argue dissolution of past normative 'ornament' and claims that rational 'ornament' that fits modern time is possible. Interestingly, intentionally adopted ornaments exist considerably in architecture of Loos. On the other hand, in Gaudí's architecture, there are many points where Gaudí had restrained ornaments. This thesis organizes similarity and differences of two architects' 'theory of ornament' through their texts and works. Moreover, this thesis suggests that then today's architecture aims to restart a debate on 'ornament', it is worth reviewing texts of Loos and Gaudí.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.712-722
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.19
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• pp.23-34
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• 1998

Bokam-ri site was excavated from July 1996 to September 1998 and archaeologically assumed to be grouped with tombs of Mahan period. Among these groups, Tomb No. 3 had built up with stone chamber and found one pair of gilted footware near the jar coffin. This footware was severely corroded and cracked so transfered it gently with soil. Radiography film of this footware showed spike decorations on the bottom and fish-shapped ornament. Gilted footware was consolidated with soil using Paraloid B72 10%~15%solution and cleaned using small tools and microscope. SV427 and HV427 as epoxy resin and Araldite(rapid type) used for joining and restoring. The fore part of gilted footware was connected with nails and folded “L” shape to introduce the bottom material. Tortoise-shell design and flower ornaments appeared on the surface and fish-shaped ornaments, spikes and spangles on the bottom. It was found that 7 spikes and 5 fish-shaped ornaments remained well. Especially, Fish-shaped ornaments were firstly found in the gilted footware and appraised archaeologically important materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.55-63
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• 2000

Date of Bureau of Statistics, including those of Bank of Korea and KDI, in 1995 indicates a market scale of approximately ￦2,800,000,000 in jewelry and personal ornaments, witch points out an average growth rate of 15.3% a year for ten years from 1986 up to 1995, representing a occupancy ratio of 0.78% per G.N.P. Despite the fact that the jewelry and personal ornaments industry has the possibility of high growth it raises problems such as illegal transactions, distortion of quality grades of jewelry (price deference by appraising agencies in Diamond, fabrications of quality in Gold). Furthermore, the personal ornaments market may be said to be still at an early state, as compared with that of advanced countries, including the USA and Japan, due to the small scale of the industry's distribution firms. Accordingly, in order for us to develop the jewelry and personal ornaments industry, one of the value added projects, an improvement in the distribution system of the jewelry and personal ornaments industry. Development of techniques of production and new design, ect, are required. Futhermore, the industry is expected to develop when its importance and contribution to the national economy, a correct understanding of the long-term vision of the industry are expended to all the industries.

• Archives of design research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.35-45
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• 1998

Confucianism, the dominating thought in the Choson Dynasty, considered the congruence of scholar and bureaucrat as principle of royal politics, so it was the important affairs to educate and select scholars who excelled in Confucian science and its historical view. The process to educate and select the scholars in accordance with the spirit of Confucianism was called the civil service examination. In this study, we examined the dress and its ornaments of the Confucian students nd that of the successful candidate related to the system of the civil service examination, and focused on the literatures and figures. The Choson Dynasty looked upon the education as important and Confucian scholars and the successful candidate had the superior position in that society. The seems to have been the demarcation between the dress and its ornaments worn by the candidate and the successful candidate. According to the inquiry of the literatures and figures, the candidate is thought to have worn yuguhn(儒巾) or bokkuhn(幅巾) with chongsam(靑衫), nansam( 衫), jikryung(直領) and the successful candidate is thought to have worn bokduh( 頭) with easahwa(御史花), aengsam(鶯衫), danryung(團領) in the Choson Dynasty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.61-76
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• 1998

This is a result of the comparative study for the dress and ornaments of Cheonsuguk Mandara Sujang(天壽國曼茶羅繡帳, a folding screen of Japan in the 7th century) with that of the era of the Three Kingdoms of the ancient Korea. The style of dress, and a way of wearing dress and ornaments for female and male appeared in Cheonsuguk Mandara Sujang were same as that of the era of the Three Kingdoms of the ancient Korea. The formula of wearing dress in a two-pieces were also identical with that of Korean. Many Japanese scholars also do not deny that the dress and ornaments of Cheonsuguk Mandara Sujang were affected by that of Korean peninsula which had an important effect on cultural and ethnic customs fo Japan. Therefore, it is concluded that the dresses in Cheonsuguk Mandara Sujang are Korean clothes which was imparted to Japanese by Korean lived in the era of the Three Kingdoms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.125-155
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• 1995

This research has been studied the influence of Song Dynasty mode upon clothes and ornaments of Korea Dynasty by Seo Gung's (徐競) 『SunWhaBongSa KoryoDoKyung』(宣和奉使高麗圖經) and in Korea Dynasty period, by Buddhist picture. The clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, fewer variations and quiter colours thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Their clothings were no more luxurious than the clothing of Dang Dynasty. We had read that when Seo Gung visited Korea for month, and then it is in Emperor Injong's reign(A.D. 1123). Korea women's clothes and ornaments were followed by Song dynasty's clothing pattern as much as the took notice of Korea women's clothing. Korea DoKyung showed Song women's clothing that whal clothing that whal clothing (華衣), Yuansam(圖經) were Korea women's a ceremonial dress and so, Koryo women's clothing were very influenced by Song's mode. The conclusion of the research are as follows found out that Korea women's a ceremonial dresses were similar to Song's.