• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.39-52
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• 2004

The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.207-217
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• 1996

The purpose of this study were to find ethnic fashion's background in the late period of 20th century to compare the World ethnic with the Korean ethnic through content analysis and to identify Korean ethnic of the world fashion Eth-nic fashion started at orientalism by Poiret in the 1910s advancing to African ethnic & Hippy fe-ver in 1960s-70-s have emerged variously with ecology in 1980s-90s' fashion trend. The next the present research analyzed the world ethnic and the Korean ethnnic. The identified 517 fashion photograph from fashion magazines were categorized into two areas: the trend of ex-ternal growth and ethnic fashion's origins/designers wearable situation colors fabrics/pattern. The result were as follows :First eth-nic fashion's external growth of both the World ethnic and the Korean ethnic were incresed. Sec-ond in the ethnic fasions' origins/designers while the World ethnic were almost the same rate between Asian and European ethnic by many designers the Korean ethnic were limited to Asian ethnic Third in the ethnic fashion's wearable situation while the World ethnic were variously wearing the Korean ethnic were lim-ited to work of collection. Forth in the ethnic fashion's colors the Korean ethnic were limited to white color. Last in the ethnic fashions' fabrics/patterns If the Korean ethnic would become a world of ethnic would become a world of ethnic fashion it should be deviced practival abrics and modernized patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.501-510
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• 2001

This study is focused on apparel textile design process applying pre-developed Korean traditional motifs. Since the fusion culture is in trend, Orientalism or Oriental look is the center of attraction in fashion. Under the circumstances, developing the traditional resources as sophisticated Korean-style is the goal of the BK21 team. This study makes a move to achieve the goal. As a method of accomplishing this study, 4 trendy motif samples such as stylized letter, butterfly, peony, and female face are selected after investigating fashion magazines and fashion related websites. As a result, pre-developted Korean traditional motifs are elected and revised using Adobe Illustrator 9.0. The newly revised motifs are applied to the textile pattern repeat form. The completed textile patterns are simulated on the simulated on the shawls to show their usages as one of souvenir items since the year of 2001 is the year of “Visit Korea”.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.49-56
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• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.109-114
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• 2006

The world has become one united world so that it is worthless to divide it into two; the East and West. In the 20th century, eastern perspectives proliferated in western science involving theology, philosophy and psychotherapy. In this time of various trends of ideas emerged minimalism, artistic and cultural current seeking simplicity and conciseness. This current of idea appeared about the time of World War II in visual art, and then expanded to other fields like music, architecture, fashion and philosophy in diverse forms. Minimalism is also presented in interior space with extreme form of simplicity and detail, revealing parts of the space as delicate and pure style with emphasis on purity of the space itself. In this research, demonstrate clear features of eastern view of space appeared in minimalism of interior design mainly in America. The reason the scope of study is limited to America is that America is the origin of minimal art and has been hub of modern design since the 1930s. The research, first, finds out the origin and conceptual idea of minimalism and features of eastern view of space. Based on this understanding, further study has been carried to discover relation of minimalistic interior space to eastern view of space and to analyze eastern characteristic expressed in minimalistic space by examination of cases pertaining to commercial space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.511-519
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• 2003

The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.