• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.811-819
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine orientalism in Korean modem fashion by Korean fashion designers. Orientalism in fashion has been widely known to people by the efforts of many researchers, but that in Korean fashion wasn't. We thus study the aesthetic meaning of Korean orientalism, and extend it to oriental fashion as well as meaning of modem orientalism shown in Korean fashion. For this study, we categorized the orientalism in Korean fashion as follows: 1) mix orientalism; 2) natural beauty with non technical skill; 3) humorous beauty; 4) color beauty.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to clarify the phenomenon and characteristics of fashion in before Orientalism by examining the environmental changes and factors of East - West cultural exchange from the 16th century to the 18th century. To this end, this study examines the development of political and diplomatic relations, the growth of economy and trade, the investment of culture and arts, and the development of industry and technology. The research method used was the analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; the characteristics and phenomena in fashion in before Orientalism were symbolism as a privileged whole, applying to special clothing area, variety and splendor of fabrics, change of costume design, and a trend of exotic taste. Before Orientalism, the perspective of Orient in Europe can be seen as having the positive aspects cause of developing fashion and a negative aspect coming from an incorrect understanding and a bias.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.150-161
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• 2005

The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

Orientalism은 동양을 서양과는 다른 이질적 인 대상, 괴상하고 후진적이며 수동적 인 특성을 지닌 열등한 타자로 서양인의 무의식 속에 내면화되어 왔다. 아시아를 일정한 지배의 틀 속에 가두는 문화적 장치와 담론의 체계인 Orientalism은 원래 남유럽과 북아프리카를 포함한 서남아시아에 해당하는 서유럽 중심의 용어였으며, 비 서구사회는 서구문명을 수용함으로써만 발전할 수 있다는 논리의 사상이다. 따라서 이러한 용어의 무분별한 사용은 부적절하다. 또한 아시아의 이미지나 복식양식을 차용한 서구의 아시안 룩에 아시아 본래의 정신은 사라졌다고 하여도 아시아를 저급한 타자로 인식한 것에서 비롯된 것이 아니다. Asian Ethnic Look은 동양적 미학에 매료되어 동양의 이미지나 양식을 차용한 서양의 복식이므로 Orientalism의 속성과는 차이가 있다. 국내의 패션계에서는 이에 대한 분별없이 혼용하여 사용하고 있고, 특히 Orientalism Fashion 또는 Oriental Look이라고 자주 사용하고 있다. 아시아의 복식이나 이미지를 기괴하게 조작한 일부 특정한 복식만을 Orientalism Fashion 또는 Oriental Look이라 해야 하며, 이를 제외하고는 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', 'Asian Ethnic Look' 등으로 바꾸어 쓰거나, 'Korean Look' 등의 개별 국가나 지역 명으로 바꾸어 쓰는 것을 분명히 해야 한다 한국을 비롯한 아시아는 서구 중심의 수동적 입장이 아니라, 세계 패션산업의 중심축 중 하나로써 세계 패션을 리드하고 있다. 이제는 우리 스스로가 서구중심의 이분법적 편견을 해체해 나가야 할 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.37-51
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• 2000

In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.17-28
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.