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Pre-Orientalism in Costume and Textiles

  • Lee, Keum Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.6
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    • pp.39-52
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    • 2018
  • The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS OF RUNNING BUILDING MAINTENANCE PROJECTS IN CONSTRUCTION

  • Edmond W.M. Lam;Albert P.C. Chan;Daniel W.M. Chan
    • International conference on construction engineering and project management
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    • 2009.05a
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    • pp.856-863
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    • 2009
  • The problem of urban decay in Hong Kong has drawn much attention of both practitioners and academics. Poorly managed buildings not just give a negative image to the Pearl of the Orient in the region, but also pose potential risk hazards to the health and safety of the general public. While it is necessary to devise a comprehensive plan on redevelopment and urban planning, preserving the existing buildings to maintain their conditions for habitation can be a short-term option to safeguard quality standard. With the increasing number of ageing buildings in Hong Kong, a lot of research efforts have been devoted to managing repair and maintenance projects properly (for example those initiated and funded by the Construction Industry Institute, Hong Kong; and the current study financially supported by The Hong Kong Polytechnic University). Given the short duration and more diversified nature of work, building repair and maintenance works are found to be more difficult to monitor and regulate when compared with new works. This paper aims to provide a comprehensive analysis on the problems of running building maintenance projects. An extensive review of contemporary literature was firstly conducted, which forms a solid basis for developing an empirical study on the problems and difficulties of running building maintenance projects from the viewpoints of industrial practitioners with a view to formulating effective strategies for managing maintenance projects successfully.

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Ingredient Analysis and Mycelial Growth of Tremella fuciformis and Hypoxylon sp. (흰목이균과 Hypoxylon sp.의 균사생장 및 성분분석)

  • Chang, Hyun-You
    • Journal of Practical Agriculture & Fisheries Research
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.25-35
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    • 2014
  • Tremella fuciformis produces white jelly fruitbody which is used as a special food in the orient. Symbiotic relationship between T. fuciformis and Hypoxylon sp. is important for mass production of fruitbody in T. fuciformis. T. fuciformis showed the peak of 24mg/2mL on the 9th day, after that mycelial growth maintained a gentle curve. Protein content increased into 0.69㎍/mL in rapid, T. fuciformis fruiting body maintained high galactose, mycelia of T. fuciformis showed 42.6% trehalose.

Conversion of Acidic Polysaccharide and Phenolic Compound of Changed Ginseng by 9 Repetitive Steaming and Drying Process, and Its Effects of Antioxidation (인삼의 구증구포에 의한 산성다당체, 페놀성화합물의 변환 및 항산화능)

  • Kim, Do-Wan;Lee, Yun-Jin;Min, Jin-Woo;Kim, Yu-Jin;Rho, Young-Deok;Yang, Deok-Chun
    • Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.121-126
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    • 2009
  • Korean ginseng (Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer) has been used as an important medicinal plant in the Orient for a long time. It has been claimed that ginseng has many beneficial bioactive effects on human health, such as antitumor, antistress, antiaging and enhancing immune functions. Red ginseng possibly have new ingredients converted during steaming and dry process from fresh ginseng. In this study, pharmacological efficacy and ingredient conversion of ginseng by 9 repetitive steaming and drying process were investigated measuring conversion efficiency of acidic-polysaccharide, phenolic compounds and inhibition of peroxide lipides. It was found that acidic-polysaccarides were increased by heat treatment. In addition, maltol of phenolic compounds, strong antioxidant, produced during the process of red ginseng by Maillard reaction. Acidic-polysaccarides and maltol were increased after the 1st and 3rd steaming and drying treatments, but they were decreased gradually after 5th, 7th, and 9th treatments. Antioxidant activity was increased as increasing treatment times of steaming and drying without significance. Effect of red ginseng extract on inhibition of peroxide was increased gradually until after the 7th treatment, but remarkably decreased after the 9th treatment.

A Study on Leon Bakst's Stage Costumes for Ballets Russes (발레 뤼스에 나타난 박스트의 무대의상 연구)

  • Lee, Young-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.407-423
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

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A Study on the Lime of Government Constructions Based on the Analysis of Construction Reports in the Late of Joseon Dynasty(17~19c) - Emphasized on the production, provision, and application of lime - (산릉(山陵).영건의궤(營建儀軌) 분석을 통한 조선후기 관영 건축공사의 석회에 관한 연구 - 석회의 생산.조달.적용을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Kweon-Yeong
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.18 no.6
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    • pp.23-46
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    • 2009
  • The history to have used lime in building construction was much long without distinction of the East or the West. The ancient nations of korean peninsula had used lime as construction material. The witness was discovered in the kings' tombs of fifth century. In the Joseon dynasty(15~19c), what applied several developed lime compounds to the kings' tombs have been recorded in 'Sanleong-Uigwe(山陵儀軌)' & 'Yeonggeon-Uigwe(營建儀軌)' of those days documents. Therefore, this paper is to examine the whole procedures from the product and provision of lime to its application through those days documents. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. Three lime compounds to be developed for the kings' tombs was extendedly applied to residential government buildings step by step within the current of time. These compounds to be used in the kings' tombs of the Joseon dynasty had been correlated to those of the ancient nations, which were nations of korean peninsula in narrow range, chinese and orient nations in broad range. These compounds have possibilities of development as the environmental-friendly building material. And these compounds should provide a standard specification for conservation & restoration of the traditional and cultural properties. I could confirm that the whole procedures had not been developed within limited space-time of the specified nation & period, but within interactions of the nations & periods. In the periods which disturb its interaction, the expansion of productivity in building construction was interfered.

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Effect of Dynamic Trunk Equilibrium Exercise on Neglect, Balance, Activities of Daily Living in Stroke Patients With Hemi-Spatial Neglect (편측무시를 가진 뇌졸중 환자를 위한 동적 체간 평형 훈련이 편측무시, 균형, 일상생활수행능력에 미치는 효과)

  • Kang, Tae-woo;Oh, Duck-won
    • Physical Therapy Korea
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.30-43
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    • 2018
  • Background: Hemispatial neglect is defined as the failure to attend, report, respond, or orient toward meaningful stimuli provided in the contralateral side of a brain lesion. Objects: This study was conducted to find out the effect of dynamic trunk equilibirum exercise for stroke patients with hemi-spatial neglect. Methods: This study included 21 stroke subjects, randomly assigned to either the experimental group or the control group. The exercise program consisted of 5 sessions of 20 minutes per week during 4 weeks. The line-bisection test, the Albert test, the balance function score, the Berg balance scale, the postural assessment scale for stroke and the modified Barthel index were measured before and after training. All data were analyzed using SPSS 12.0 for Windows. Between-group and within-group comparison was analyzed by using Independent t-test and Paired t-test respectively. Results: The results of study were as follows: There were significant differences between before and after intervention in both group (p<.05). There were significant differences in the line-bisection test, Albert test, balance function score, Berg balance scale, postural assessment scale for stroke and modified Barthel index between the experimental group and the control group (p<.05). Conclusion: Dynamic trunk equilibrium exercise had a positive effect on patients' neglect, balance ability and activities of daily living. Further studies are required to generalize the results of this study.

Environment Design of an Estuary Dike on the Youngsan-River (영산강 하구둑 환경설계)

  • 배현미
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.44-51
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    • 2002
  • The objective of this project is to improve the environment of the estuary dike on the Youngsan-River through Re-landscaping. An estuary dike of the Youngsan-River, the largest in the Orient, was constructed in 1981 and connects Mokpo City and Youngam-Gun province. Twenty years ago, when this dike was completed, this place was one of the famous tourist attractions of Korea. It symbolized the development and growth of Korea. But this dike at present is only a dreary sight as a huge concrete construction element. Therefore, a wall painting on the estuary dike was planned to improve this image. The site, an estuary dike of the Youngsan-River, is located in Mokpo City and its length is about 1,360m. The planning focus of this re-landscaping, which is a proposed improvement design through the analysis of characteristics and problems in conventional facilities, is as follows: (1) Introduction of a wall painting that is a symbol of the sea and river (by the creation of an illusion), (2) Production of the wall painting which is under consideration to create a friendly atmosphere of the circumference view and (3) Preparation of a design to establish an approach to the waterfront. By following these steps, an estuary dike can function as a tourist attractions and can be transformed in to cultural space for civilian. This project is good example of environment design that is completed with the regional residents participation through community input in the planning and initiation of a wall painting. The concept of environment design which involves the residents participation and re-landscaping in Korea has not been established up to now on. However, as this projects has proven, consideration for regional residents is a very important factor for the administrative office and planing specialist to address. In the future, it will have a direct influence on the development of design planning. If the establishment of space that can be accepted by residents with love, affection and self-confidence is possible, environment design in which residents participate actively, can be realized.

Subjectivity toward Death among College Students (대학생의 죽음에 대한 주관성 연구)

  • Kim, Myung-Ae;Kim, Sun-Wha
    • The Journal of Korean Academic Society of Nursing Education
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.7-16
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study was to classify the subjectivity type toward death among college students and to understand the characteristics of attitudes and orientations toward death of each type. Since attitudes and orientations toward death is very subjective and unique, Q-methodology was employed in this study. Q-methodology explains the respondent's subjectivity by objectifying his subjectivity for himself. The P-sample consisted of 63 students of K university in D city. Forty statements concerning attitudes and orientations toward death, which developed by Yeun(1999) were utilized for Q-sample. Forty Q-statements were sorted according to the level of agreement or disagreement by forced normal distribution. The Q-sorts by each subjects were coded and analysed with the PC-QUANL program. Five types of subjectivity toward death were identified and labeled. Type 1 'the death- preparation' think frequently about his own death and talk openly about the problem of death with a positive attitude. Type 2 'the life-esteemed' respect the dignity of life most of all. Type 3 'the realty-oriented' do not believe the afterlife and is very concerned about the present life itself instead of thinking about death. Type 4 'the ambivalent' think importantly the aspect of present life and orient the afterlife at the same time. This type reveals opposite attitude of preparing and scaring the death at the same time. Type 5 'the destiny-recipient' attribute death to the destiny and deny suicide. On the basis of this result, the studies about applying and developing educational program on death and hospice care for nurses who care terminal cancer patients and families are needed.

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Re-orienting Fashion of Modern Fashion by the Approach of Semiotics -Focusing on Korea, China, and Japan- (현대 패션에 나타난 리오리엔팅 패션의 기호학적 연구 -한.중.일을 중심으로-)

  • Min, Jeong-Ah;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.8
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    • pp.1241-1252
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    • 2009
  • This study is on the internal and external characteristics along with the phenomena of dress and ornaments expressed in them by analyzing Re-orienting Fashion (which is a system of signs and symbols) based on the theories of semiology in the search for the Korean identity by examining a Re-orienting Fashion that is being reinterpreted. Re-orienting Fashion performs the role of signs that act in the spread of Oriental culture through the globalization of traditional dress and ornaments in the Orient. It also has a meaning that converts the world of fashion to a new direction. When analyzing the system of signs and symbols in Re-orienting Fashion (based on the theories of semiology) the conclusions are that an eclectic symbol system has been formed by the combination of the pursuit of modernization in traditional dress and ornaments with post-modernism. A nature-friendly symbol system has been shaped as a natural silhouette in terms of the combination with Eastern philosophy that searches for a harmony with nature according to ecological trends. The ideal of a symbol system means the introduction of design elements in traditional dress and ornaments of the East as a rejection of Western civilization and as an alternative to the fixed pattern of the West.