• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.