• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.1
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• pp.187-194
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• 2006

Recently satellite SAR techniques have become essential observation tools for various ocean phenomena such as wind, wave, and current. The CMOD4 and CMOD-IFR2 models are used to calculate the magnitude of wind at SAR resolution with no directional information. Combination of the wave-SAR spectrum analysis and the inter-look cross-spectra techniques provides amplitude and direction of the ocean wave over a square-km sized imagette, The Doppler shift measurement of SAR image yields surface speed of the ocean current along the rador looking direction, again at imagette resolution. In this paper we report the development of a SAR Ocean processor (SOP) incorporating all of these techniques. We have applied the SOP to several RADARSAT-1 images of the coast of Korean peninsula and compared the results with oceanographic data, which showed reliability of spaceborne SAR-based oceanographic research.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.1 s.117
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• pp.35-42
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• 2007

Recently satellite SAR techniques have become essential observation tools for various ocean phenomena such as wind, wave, and current. The CMOD4 and CMOD-IFR2 models are used to calculate the magnitude of wind at SAR resolution with no directional information. Combination of the wave-SAR spectrum analysis and the inter-look cross-spectra techniques provides amplitude and direction of the ocean wave over a square-km sized imagette, The Doppler shift measurement of SAR image yields surface speed of the ocean current along the radar looking direction, again at imagette resolution. In this paper we report the development of a SAR Ocean processor(SOP) incorporating all of these techniques. We have applied the SOP to several RADARSAT-1 images of the coast of Korean peninsula and compared the results with oceanographic data, which showed reliability of spaceborne SAR-based oceanographic research.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.225-230
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• 1992

An attempt is made to assemble and synthesize recent publications which may contribute to our capability for understanding the transformation of wave spectra in finite-depth water or in the presence of current. This review is limited essentially to the effects of shoaling and current on one-dimensional transformation of wave spectra and examining the adequacy of the approximation of irregular waves by a monochromatic wave in modeling of wave transformation in coastal areas.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.344-347
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• 2008

Ocean surface waves may be modified by ocean current and their observation may be severely distorted if the observer is on a moving platform with changing speed. Tidal current near a sill varies inversely with the water depth, and results spatially inhomogeneous modulation on the surface waves near the sill. For waves propagating upstream, they will encounter stronger current before reaching the sill, and therefore, they will shorten their wavelength with frequency unchanged, increase its amplitude, and it may break if the wave height is larger than 1/7 of the wavelength. These small scale (${\sim}$ 1 km changes is not suitable for satellite radar observation. Spatial distribution of wave-height spectra S(x, y) can not be acquired from wave gauges that are designed for collecting 2-D wave spectra at fixed locations, nor from satellite radar image which is more suitable for observing long swells. Optical images collected from cameras on-board a ship, over high-ground, or onboard an unmanned auto-piloting vehicle (UAV) may have pixel size that is small enough to resolve decimeter-scale short gravity waves. If diffuse sky light is the only source of lighting and it is uniform in camera-viewing directions, then the image intensity is proportional to the surface reflectance R(x, y) of diffuse light, and R is directly related to the surface slope. The slope spectrum and wave-height spectra S(x, y) may then be derived from R(x, y). The results are compared with the in situ measurement of wave spectra over Keelung Sill from a research vessel. The application of this method is for analysis and interpretation of satellite images on studies of current and wave interaction that often require fine scale information of wave-height spectra S(x, y) that changes dynamically with time and space.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.389-399
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• 2009

Subsurface pressure gauge has many advantages in measuring a wide range of wave spectra in coastal waters from wind waves to long waves. However, a shortcoming of the gauge is related to the difficulties in recovering surface wave spectra from subsurface pressure records. In this study, the effect of current on the pressure transfer function of the pressure gauge, and hence on the surface wave energy spectrum, was investigated by analyzing the subsurface pressure data based on the linear wave theory. For this purpose, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave-current flume. Subsurface pressure records, as well as the surface elevation data, were obtained simultaneously under different wave and current conditions. Pressure transfer functions were obtained and compared with those estimated from the linear wave theory, both with and without inclusion of the current-effect. It was established that wave spectra obtained from subsurface pressure gauge were in closer agreement with those from surface wave gauge when current-effect on the pressure transfer function was taken into consideration for analysis.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.813-825
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• 2014

To maximize electric power production using wave energy extractions from resonance power buoys, the maximum motion displacement spectra of the buoys can primarily be obtained under a given wave condition. In this study, wave spectra observed in shoaling water were formulated. Target resonance frequencies were established from the arithmetic means of modal frequency bands and the peak frequencies. The motion characteristics of the circular cylindrical power buoys with corresponding drafts were then calculated using numerical models without considering PTO damping force. Results showed that the heave motions of the power buoys in shoaling waters with insufficient drafts produced greater amplification effects than those in deep seas with sufficient drafts.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.266-277
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• 2023

In this study, fundamental research is conducted for the generation technique and analysis of multi-directional irregular waves in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin (DOEB). A three-dimensional boundary element method-based numerical tank is implemented to perform wave generation simulations, and directional spectrum estimation is carried out using the results of simulations. The wave generation technique of the Snake type wave maker, generating multi-directional irregular waves, is implemented using the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) and Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT) algorithms. The wave generation technique is validated by comparing the wave spectrum from simulations and experiments. A Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) based estimation code is developed for estimating the directional wave spectra. The multi-directional irregular waves are tested in the DOEB and the numerical tank, and directional wave spectra obtained from two methodologies are estimated and compared. A correction procedure for the directional distribution of multi-directional waves is established, and the possibility of correcting the directional spreading function using the numerical tank is validated.

• Journal of KIISE
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.846-851
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• 2015

Seas and swells are basic wave types in ocean surface simulation and are very important elements in the simulation of ocean background. In this paper, we propose a real-time simulation method, for reproducing realistic seas and swells, to be used in real-time simulators such as ship maneuvering simulators. Seas and swells have different visual properties. Swells have relatively longer wavelengths and round crests compared with seas, therefore they are visualized globally with large meshes and procedural methods. Parameters to illustrate swells are extracted from ocean wave spectra. Conversely, seas have shorter wavelengths and their characteristics are only clearly apparent near to the observation point. Here, we present visualization of seas based on a statistical wave model using ocean wave spectra, which provides realistic results in a reactively small area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.363-371
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• 2020

The parameters of the modified BM and JONSWAP spectra are estimated using spectral data set off Namhangjin, located in the east coast of Korea, collected during high wave events. The parameters of the modified BM spectrum were estimated to be 1.04 and 0.27, which were similar to the conventional values of 1.098 and 0.30, but showed significant differences in statistical terms. On the other hand, the peak enhancement factor of JONSWAP spectrum was estimated to be 1.4, which was substantially small compared to the conventional value of 3.3. The RMSE differences from the fitted results of the two spectra were small, approximately 0.2. In the frequency range greater than the peak frequency, however, the spectral energy density showed relatively mild decrease with increase of the frequency, compared to the standard forms of the modified BM and JONSWAP spectra.