• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.61-90
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• 2021

Recent excavations in Qinghai Province, China, have disclosed textiles and artworks from Tuyuhun-Tubo (Tibetan) tombs, dated to the 7^th-9^th centuries, that suggest artistic and cultural exchanges along an external southern branch of the main Silk Road, between Gansu and Sichuan Provinces, across the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau toward the Himalayas. Many similar textiles, possibly from this area, have appeared lately on the art market and ended in private collections. Although these textiles, dated to the early Tibetan period, follow a popular prototype established in Central Asia in the 6^th century, the technical features, colors, and other indigenous elements suggest that they were woven in workshops different from those established between Sogdiana and Gansu. The exhibition "Cultural Exchange Along the Silk Road - Masterpieces of the Tubo Period," organized by the Dunhuang Research Academy and the Pritzker Collaborative Art between July and October 2019 in Dunhuang, Gansu, was a groundbreaking event that gathered scholarly attention on early Tibetan material culture, but a relevant publication is still forthcoming. In my previous work, I briefly discussed a group of silk textiles, possibly from Qinghai or Sichuan, that I analyzed in 2014 in the China National Silk Museum in Hangzhou, Zhejiang. In light of the recent material excavated, published online, or displayed in Dunhuang, in this article, I reevaluate the data previously collected, and discuss in detail the technical and iconographic features of one of the fragments held in Hangzhou. Eventually, the piece was recognized as the ending part of a large panel, which is now in the Abegg Stiftung in Riggisberg, Switzerland.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.1-24
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• 2023

The art of carpet weaving is the most habitual form of traditional art in Azerbaijan, it reflects a rich inner world and occupies a special place in the history of a national culture's development. The Azerbaijani carpet has always stood out for its plots, ornaments, compositions, and high quality and the Azerbaijani people, faithful to their spiritual values, have protected and developed it throughout the centuries. In this article, several Ganja-Gazakh-type carpets from the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum collection and their artistic and technical characteristics are discussed. Specimens of material, sacred language, and ornamentation are considered. The deepest meaning is embodied in tamga in particular. Tamga is a unique phenomenon serving as an amulet, lineage sign, and self-identification of Turkic peoples. The Gazakh carpets of the Ganja-Gazakh type cover the Gazakh region of Azerbaijan, the Borchali region of Georgia, and the Goycha Lake region of Armenia. Karapapakh Azerbaijani Turks have inhabited these areas since ancient times. Tarakama (nomads) are often equated with the name Karapapakh (black hat). One of the densely populated regions of Tarakama is Gazakh. Gazakh, Garagoyunlu, Salahli, Shikhli, Kamarli, Damirchilar, Gaymagli, Goycali, Daghkasaman, Oysuzlu, Gachagan, and pile carpets with different compositions are woven in the Gazakh carpet weaving center. Large, simple in form, step-shaped or hook-like medallions, horn-shaped patterns, animal images, and stamps with symbols of ancient Turkic tribes characterize the Gazakh carpet weaving group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1559-1570
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• 2008

Since brought into from the economic life of nomads, the felt, the target of this study, has been developed in various ways of giving the functions of class symbol as well of protection against the cold and of ornamentation. Therefore, the study on how the felt was developed in Joseon Dynasty and how different culture from nomadic tribes it formed is significant in comprehensively under,;landing the economic, social and natural environmental factors in the Dynasty. The felt named "Jeon" has been constantly appearing in Korea from the ancient time, but it was not produced actively in the early part of Joseon Dynasty. That's why it was not a climatic condition suitable for sheep-breeding, and the government managed sheep-breeding but it aimed primarily at not producing clothing materials but having memorial ceremonies. Since sheep-breeding was not widely spreaded, production of Jeon was limited and some part was imported from China, so it was one of rare valuable goods. Therefore, the felt of wools named "Yangmojeon", the colored felt named "Chaejeon", etc. were used as liking items in the high-class society, and their materials and components were a little different depending on the official post. On the other hand, people in the low-class society used to wear the felt hats made of cattle feathers and miscellaneous fur, named "Jeonlip" and "Beougeoji". Since the middle of Joseon Dynasty, use of the felt was divided into two groups according to the users and the function, along with successful spreading of cotton and development of market economy. The function of Jeon to protect against the cold was replaced by cotton, but the felt hats of Beongeoji, Jeonlip, etc. were worn by common people continuously. As seen above, it is considered that the felt culture in Joseon Dynasty was formed very differently from the nomadic culture, because of its historical and sociocultural characteristics, and it had unique developing progress among all available fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

Rice alcoholic beverages, cheongju and beopju, which are recorded in "Koryodokyung", "Koryosageolyo", and "Koryosa", were used in national and royal ceremonies, and yakju was used in the Palgwanhoi ritual. In the late $11^{th}$century, King Munjong imported hwaju and haenginjabeopju from the royal family of the Song Dynasty. Alcoholic beverages in the early $12^{th}$century included the medical use for kings, such as gyehyangeoju, which the Emperor of the Song Dynasty sent to King Yejong, baekjainju, which was sent to King Myeongjong for his health, and yangju, which is goat milk fermented alcohol from the nomads in the northern regions. In the early$13^{th}$ century there was also dongrak, which is a horse-milk fermented alcohol, grape wine sent from Yuan to King Chungryeol in the late $13^{th}$ century, and sangjonju, a type of special cheongju sent from Yuan in the early $14^{th}$ century. Baekju from Yuan was recorded in oral traditions, which suggests that soju, which is distilled cheongju, was consumed in the late $14^{th}$ century. Gold and silver wares for alcoholic beverages had important political, social, and economic meanings as national gifts to other countries and internally as the king's royal gift to his subjects. In the late $14^{th}$ century, soju was prohibited, and the use of gold and silver wares for alcoholic beverages was banned at the same time. This study examined the historical characteristics of the use of traditional rice alcoholic beverages, the emotional preference for foreign alcoholic beverages, and the gold and silver wares used for alcoholic beverages Koryo Dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.203-206
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• 2004

Fodder supply condition was studied at 41 nomadic families in Gobi, Southern Semi-Desert area in Mongolia, from Dec. 1994 to Apr. 1995 to determine problems in cold, feed deficient season for establishment of sustainable livestock production system. The conditions of two family groups: those located in sparse vegetation (FG1), and those in comparably dense (FG2), were also compared. Commercial concentrate feed (concentrate), hay and Zoodoi were prepared for supplementation. Zoodoi was hand-made feed made mainly of Allium mongolicum and Allium polyrrhizum. Allium mongolicum tended to be used at FG1 frequently, and Allium polyrrhizum at FG2 depend on differences of micro vegetation. 44%, 90% and 39% of families prepared 165.6 kg of concentrate, 301.6 kg of hay and 6.8 kg of Zoodoi per sheep and goat (small livestock) on the average, respectively. The ratio of families that used concentrate at FG1 was smaller than those at FG2, though there were no significant differences on the amount. More hay was fed at FG1 than at FG2, and Zoodoi tended to be fed more in the FG1 group. Recipients were mostly restricted to young, female and sick small livestock that use the feeds effectively. More families gave concentrate and hay to the young than to the females and sick. They also gave more Zoodoi to young and sick animals than to females in this area. In the FG1 group, no differences were found between recipients on the concentrate supply. More families supplied hay to young animals than to sick ones, and Zoodoi was fed more to sick animals than to young and females. On the other hand, those in the FG2 found, more families fed fodders to young than to female and sick regardless of the kinds of feeds. The amount of fodder supplementation in the studied area was restricted, but accurate techniques of nomads to adapt the situation were clarified.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.600-615
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• 2009

$21^{st}$ century post digital society orients co-existence, fusion, and blurring boundary than conflict, differentiation, and boundary, and makes a try liberal combination of various different objects. Furthermore, radical development of science and digital equipments offer technical possibility that could combine various fields. Hence, many different departments demolish their boundary, and combine for development of multi-functional and complex shape's products. For job-nomads, fashion attempts to combine with architecture, furniture, daily necessities, and digital equipments spontaneously. This paper aims at consideration about the blurring phenomena expressed in complex fashion space of $21^{st}$ century throughout empirical fashion photographs analysis, which show combination among fashion and various different fields. Blurring boundary phenomena of complex fashion space are classified with 4 parts as follows as: 1) furniturizing, 2) wearable dwelling, 3) lumiduct, 4) becoming fashion. Each parts are examined 8 aesthetical characteristics such as movement and lightness, hyper-link and openness, immateriality and inter-activeness, and diversity and ambiguity. $21^{st}$ century fashion has changed more simple and light, and creates new form throughout combination with many other fields, and enlarges its function and sphere. I think this paper would help certificating practical use of fashion space as multiple and complex space, and makes contribution to forecast about fashion development of the future and offer inspiration about creative and innovative fashion design.

• 대한본초학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.69-76
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• 2018

Objectives : Dracocephalum palmatum Stephan (Lamiaceae) is a medicinal plant used by the East-Russian nomads but there were few studies on this plant. This study was to evaluate anti-cancer effects of D. palmatum Stephan leaf hexane fraction on human derived prostate cancer cell death. Methods : The dried leaves of D. palmatum were dissolved in methanol, and hexane fraction (DpLH) was again obtained from lyophilized methanol extract (DpLM). DpLH was investigated by measuring by MTT assay and annexin V/PI staining to evaluate its effects on the cell viability and apoptosis of PC-3 cells. The ROS generations were detected by DCF-DA dye. The protein expressions were confirmed by p-AKT, Bcl-2, Bax, procaspase-3 activities. Results : After treatment of DpLH to PC-3 cells, the cell proliferation was significantly inhibited, and in addition, DpLH treatment also accelerated apoptosis of PC-3 cells. When DpLH was treated to the PC-3 cells, its ROS production significantly decreased. The proportion of all proteins (p-AKT/actin, Bcl-2/Bax and procaspase-3/actin ratios) showed decreasing tendency of expression compared with the control group. Conclusions : As shown in the above results, the extract from D. palmatum inhibits ROS production and promotes cell death, which is considered to be a relatively safe induction of cell death when administered to a living body. In conclusion, these results suggested that DpLH may have anti-cancer effect in human prostate cancer cell.

• 한국축산식품학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.383-401
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• 2023

Camel milk has a significant and pivotal role in the diet of people residing in semi-arid and arid regions. Ever since ancient times, marketing of camel milk has remained insignificant due to nonexistence of processing amenities in the camel nurturing areas, hence the utilization of unprocessed camel milk has continuously remained limited at family level by the nomads. Due to the superior medicinal values and health promoting effects, incredible growth in the demand of camel milk and dairy products have been noticed all over the world during last two decades. Such emergence has led dairy industry to provide diversified camel dairy products to the consumers with superior nutritional and functional qualities. In contrast to bovine, very few food products derived from camel milk are available in the present market. With the advancements in food processing interventions, a wide range of dairy and non-dairy products could be obtained from camel milk, including milk powder, cheese, yogurt, ice cream, and even chocolate. In some regions, camel milk is used for traditional dishes such as fermented milk, camel milk tea, or as a base for soups and stews. Current review highlights the processing opportunities regarding the transformation of camel milk into various dairy products via decreasing the inherent functionality that could be achieved by optimization of processing conditions and alteration of chemical composition by using fortification method. Additionally, future research directions could be devised to improve the product quality.