• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.124-144
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• 2008

This study is taken as the part of the cultural research on the Kaspian coastal region, which has a great significance as the start of human civilization and in the history of cultural exchange. This study is focused on the Achaemenid dynasty of the great Persian Empire that Iranians have established on the Parsa region, south of Iran on 6-4th century B.C. This research limits to the tribute-relief illustrated on the stairs of Apadana Palace in Persepolis during the age of Achaemenid dynasty. The objective of this research is classify and analyze Persians and its neighboring tribes, their dresses and the detailed elements of the dresses to complete the typology of the dresses in that period and use this to categorize the features of nomadic and agricultural tribes of costal areas of the Mediterranean Sea to Northern India and study the cultural exchange and its effects. Furthermore, we aim to use the above typology to revise the typology of the Korean traditional dresses that were formerly just sorted as a type of coat-trousers that classified as a nomadian Scythian dress type. The results of above analysis are as follows: The clothing of many tribes living in the coastal areas of Mediterranean Sea to the Northern India in the Achaemenid dynasty of Persia on 6th century B.C. shows that the typology of the dressings have close relationship with the region they live in. Such typology is displayed differently from tribes east and west of Iran. The tribes west of Iran showed characteristics of an agricultural tribe and the tribes east of Iran displayed features of a nomadic tribe. In addition, uniformed styles of dressing were displayed amongst many tribes sharing a common lineage. Such inference came from the fact that similar styles of dressings were identified not only in tribes east of Iran but also in tribes west of Iran.

• 한국초지조사료학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2005

Khori(高麗) refers to the Chaabog(reindeer) that live on lichens(蘚) on Mt. Soyon(鮮) in which pastures are the cold and dry plateau of North Eurasia. Thus, the origin region of the Khori or Koguryo that are the ancestors of the reindeer-herding pastoral nomads(馴鹿 遊牧民) can be said to be the Steppe-Taiga-Tundra pastoral areas of North Eurasia and North America. When the pastoral nomads moved on to the great mountain(大山) zone of the Jangbaek(長白) to the Baekdu(白頭) Mountains, they could have been in contact with pastoral farmers or agricultural farmers living there and they became the farmers remaining on agricultural farms. They were the Koryo people, the ancestors of Korea. Staying in one place, they gradually forgot the origin of their reindeer-herding pastoral nomadic history in the Northwest area of Mt. Soyon, the small mountain(小山) zone of the Steppe-Taiga-Tundra pastoral areas. In other words, they lost their identity as reindeer-herding pastoral nomads when they entered the agricultural area after leaving the pastoral area. However, since their basic genes had already formed when they lived on the cold and dry plateau of North Eurasia, it is possible to study their pastoral nomadic history focusing on 'the minority living in the broad area(廣域少數)', by utilizing highly advanced biotechnological science and focusing on genes and information technology innovation, and removing various past hindrances in research. Therefore, it is not so difficult to restore the reindeerherding pastoral nomadic history of the Koguryo(高句麗) people and secure their pastoral nomadic identity, of which the first steps have already been taken into their historical stages. The Eurasian continent and the Korean peninsula, especially the cold and dry plateau of North Eurasia and the Korean peninsula have been closely related to each other ecologically and historically. They can never be a separate space at all. The Eurasian continent lies horizontally east to west and thus, the continent forms an isothermal zone. Also, since the time of producing their own foods, it was relatively easy for people with their technology to move to other places owing to the pastoral nomadic characteristic of mobility. Unlike the Chungyen(中原) region, western Asia and the regions covering the Siberia-Manchu-Korean peninsula where food production revolution was first made were connected to the Mongolian lichens route(蘚苔之路: Ni, ukinii jam) and steppe roads. Although the ecological conditions of nature have changed a bit throughout a long history, it was natural for the many tribes in North Asia living on the largest Steppe-Taiga-Tundra area in the world to have believed 'the legends related to animals in relation to their founders and ancestors(獸祖傳說)'. Assuming that Siberian tigers and the tigers living on Mt. Baekdu were connected ecologically and genetically because of the ecological characteristics of the animals, and their migration from plateau to plateau, we would suspect that the Chosun(朝鮮) tribe living on Mt. Baekdu were ethnically and culturally more closely connected to the farther removed Ural-Altai tribes that lived on the cold and dry plateau region than to the Han(i14;) tribe who lived in Chungyen(中原) that was close to Mt. Baekdu. More evidence is the structure of the Korean language which has the form of 'Subject + Object + Verb', which is assumed to have originated from the speedy lifestyle of the reindeer-herding pastoral nomads. The structure is quite different from that of the Han(漢) language, which is based on agricultural life. Also, it is natural for reindeer riding reindeerherding pastoral nomads or horse-riding sheep-herding pastoral nomads(騎馬, 羊遊牧民) to have held military and political power over the region and eventually to have established an ancient pastoral nomadic empire in the process of their conquest of agricultural regions. The stages for founding global empires in the history of mankind maybe largely divided into two, in terms of ecological conditions and occupations. They are the steppes and the oceans. Of course, the steppe-based empires were established based on the skills to deal with horses and the ability to shoot arrows while riding horses, along with the use of iron ware in the 8th century BC. The steppe-based empires became the foundation for an oceanic empire, which could have been established by the use of warships and warship guns since the 15th Century. Based on those facts, we know that Chosun, Puyo(夫餘), and Koguryo are the products of a developmental process of pastoral nomadic empires on the steppes. Maybe we can easily find the pastoral nomadic identity of the Koguryo more than we expected when we trace the origins and history of the Korean tribe living in the pastures located in the northwest area of Mt. Jangbaek by focusing on pastoral nomadic mobility and organization just as we have investigated the historic origins of Anglo-Saxons in America by focusing on the times before the 15th Century. In the process, we should keep in mind that English culture originated from the Industrial Revolution and was directly delivered to the American continent, although America was far from England and was not an intermediate point on long sojourns either. Further, American culture came back to England in a more advanced form later. The most important thing currently to be resolved is to cause Koreans to look back on their own history in a freer way of thinking and with diverse, profound, and sharp insight, taking away the old and existing conventional recognition that is entangled with complicated interests with Korean people and other countries. The meanings of Chosun, Khori, and Solongos have been interpreted arbitrarily without any historic evidence by the scholars who followed conventional tradition of fixed-minded aristocrats in an agricultural society. If the Siberian cultural properties of the stone age, the earthenware age, the bronze age, and the iron age are analyzed in such a way, archaeological discovery will never be able to contribute to the restoration of the Koguryo's pastoral nomadic identity. One should transcend the errors that tend to interpret the cultural properties discovered in the pastoral nomadic regions as not being differentiated from those of agricultural regions and just interpret them altogether from the agricultural point of view. A more careful intention is required in the interpretation of cultural properties of ancient Korean empires that seem to have been formed due to mutual interactions of pastoral nomadic and agricultural cultures. Also, it is required that the conventional recognition chain of 'reverse-genes' be severed, which has placed more weight on agricultural properties than pastoral nomadic ones, since their settlement on agricultural farms was made after the establishment of their ancient pastoral nomadic empires. There is no reason at all to place priority on stoneware, earthenware, bronze ware, and iron ware than on wooden ware(木器) and other ware which were made of animal skins(皮器), bones and horns(骨角器), in analyzing the history in the regions of reindeer or sheep pastures. Reading ancient Korean history from the perspective of pastoral nomadic history, one feels strongly the instinctive emotions to return to the natural 'mother place'. The reindeer-herding pastoral nomadic identity of the Koguryo people that has been accumulated in volumes in their genes and hidden deep inside and have interacted organically could be reborn with Burqanism(Burqan refers to 不咸 in Chinese), which was their religion by birth and symbolized as the red willow(紅柳=不咸). The mother place of the Koguryo's people is the endless vast green pastures of North Eurasia and North America, where we anticipated the development of Korean livestock farming following the inherent properties in the genes of the reindeer-herding pastoral nomads with Korean ancestors. We anticipate that the place would be the core resource that could contribute to the development of life of living creatures following the inherent properties of their genes and biotechnological factors. In other words, biotechnology used for a search for clues on the well-being of humans could be the fruit brought by Burqanism of the Koguryo people and the fruit of the globalization of Korean livestock farming. It is the Chosun farmer in China come from the vast nomadic reindeer pastures of North Eurasia that resolved the food problem of a billion Chinese people with lowland paddy rice seeds (水稻) by transforming Heilongjiang Province(黑龍江省) into an oceanic lowland paddy rice field(水田). Even Mao Tse-tung(毛擇東) could not resolve the food problem by his revolution campaigns for tens of years. Today is the very time that requires the development of special livestock farming following the inherent properties of the ancient Korean reindeer-herding pastoral nomads that respected the dignity of life on the cold and dry plateau of North Eurasia and the America continent. I suggest that research should be started from the pastures of the Dariganga Steppe in East Mongolia that was the homeland of Hanwoo(韓牛) and the central horse-herding steppe place(牧馬場) of Chingis Khan's Mongolia. The Dariganga Steppe is awash with an affluent natural environment for pastoral nomadic living however, the quality of life of the pastoral nomads there is still low. I suggest we Koreans, the descendents of the Koguryo, should take our first steps for our livestock farming business project and develop the Northern nomadic pastures, here at the pastures of the Dariganga Steppe, which is the Mongolian core place of state-of-the-art technology for military weapons.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.67-77
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to investigate the origin of ku and changes of styles from ancient times to recent times. It will contribute to recent times . It will contribute the correct understanding of the historical change of clothing materials. For this study historical comparative method were utilized using documentary records and relic of ku. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were the first clothes that human beings put on in order to protect human body against the cold. Ku was widely worn by many people in Asia dynasty. ku was an out fit for protection against the cold and it was made of animal fur. 2. The ancient times, the northern part of korean peninsular and Manchus were the mainfield of action of korean people. At this time, koreans preferred the ho-bok that the nomadic tribe used put on. But the territiory of unified Silla was limited to the southern part of korean peninsular, and it be supposed that ku was preferred only in a certain local community and social class. In Chosun dynasty , ku was also adopted as garment for protection against cold. During Sung-Zong and Chung -Zong era it was so popularized that both men and women in noble class preferred it. But in latter part of Chosun dynasty government worned the nation against extravagance in living, ku lots its popurality and it was modified into another garments such as gotzaugori, baeza and magoza.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권6호
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• pp.41-56
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• 1998

The Yo-Dae(belt) was made of cloths and leather orginally. Then, it was decorated with metal decoration to become more developed luxury one. The Kwa-Dae of the Three Kingdom period is called as final shape among those ancient mode. Dae-Gu(The origin of belt buckle) was the metallic decoration of the leather belt that the northern nomadic tribe used to wear it. It was considered that the Dae-Gu was more decorated and changed to Kwa-Dae with Yo-Pae. The first stage Dae-Gu didn't have the hook, but a short hook only could move the belt itself was created, and then a movable short hook(China-Jin period Kwa-Dae, etc) to be inside of belt was showed, after that an axis was necessary when it became to long one, It was completed as a belt buckle. The stick shape hook was main stream in China an dthe other northern countries. Meanwhile, Korea has mostly "T" shape hook, and it shows that we developed our own unique style. Classifying the type of the belt plague, there are five types due to the scarved shapes on the Kwa-Dae and the changes. Mainly based on the excavated tomb articles of the three kingdoms and referred to Chinese and Japanese ones. It showed that the belt plague was lightly influenced by the times and area, but was slowly changed and developed to different types through those each ages generally.

• 복식
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• 제17권
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• pp.221-245
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• 1991

The purpose of the study is to search for the existene mode of the modern cosmetology by not only understanding generally but also looking into the fundamental mental base and the aesthetic senses reflected in the literatuers and remans concerned with the traditional Korean cosmetology from anient times to modern times (1910). What are characteritic of in the systemetic study are summarized as follows : Chapter I The purposes and methods are systematized and the scop of study is specified. Chapter II The definition of cosmetology and osmetic indicates that the traditional cosmetology is a sort of whole deoration with costume. Chapter III It can hypothesized that since the Koreans were the northern nomadic tribe, in the beginning the cosmetology might have had a practical usage to protect themselves from the cold weather, and then gradually become to have a decoration meaning, and finally, with the development of various social culture, undergone the transition reflecting some characteristic of each era. Chapter IV While the female cosmetology had been much likely to accomodate the spirit of the times under the male, most of the male cosmetology had been done as a means to exhibit his social position, the tendency which had been prominent in the Yi dynasty. Chapter V Sinece beauty kits which were made of raw materials had been selg-supplying only to meet the small demand, their size were relatively small and had been given a menaing of a luchy omen or exorcism. Chapter VI Buddhism introduced bathing and incense, Confucianistic view of womanhood differentiated the cosmetology between Kissang and daughters of respectable citizens, and thin make-up was recomended. In addition, there many thoughts to have influence on the traditional cosmetology culture : body-and-soul unity, exorcism, naturalism, and short-lived beauty. Chapter VII Since the on-going movement of makeing use of the traditional cosmetic materials in order to apply to modern cosmetic may be a king of counter-vertical cultural phenomena to incorporate our own tradition with the modern cosmetology culture efficiently, the hope is that the findings of the study may contribute to the said efforts. In short, the study on the traditional cosmetology culture may be heloful in Looking into the existence of the modern cosmetology through its clarification of the nature of the traditional cosmetology culture.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.211-223
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• 1992

The results of the researches in the wig and the Boyo are as follows. The wig is to be classified into Bu, Pyun, Chah, Cheh, and kwik, Bu is an ornamental hairpin used by the empress, and it is decorated with Boyo. Pyun is a wig made of braided hair. Chah is made of Bal which is put together by its lenath, and it was also called Picheh or Pisuck. It is made, one by one, of hair of the convicts and the low-class people. 초도 has a meaning of toupee, and it is used to look beautiful with its thick black hair. Kwik is a wig made of hair as if it is weaved out of thread, and it is rounded with a wire. In ancient times, it was also called chah, Pi, or Pi People wore different wigs according to their class and the use, in order of Bu, Pyun, and Chah. There are remains of the Han Dynasty. Boyo, just like the wig, was originally a custom of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the later Han Dynasty. It is also called Cho Song and has a different meaning from the Boyo attached to a crown before the Han Dynasty. It became much more beautiful in the Which in period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Tang Dynasty, which is due to the influence by the customs of the western Ho tribe. The name of hairstyling using wigs in each period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its properity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found. times, it was also called chah, Pr, or period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing, it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its prosperity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.63-84
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• 2022

고대 유목문화 중 하나인 사카(Saka)문화는 유라시아 고대 문화 네트워크의 중요한 매개 역할을 하였던 것으로 평가받는다. 이들에 의해 조영된 카타르토베(Katartobe) 고분군에 대해 대한민국 국립문화재연구원과 카자흐스탄 국립박물관 문화유산연구소가 3년간 공동 발굴하였던 내용을 재해석해 보았다. 조사 과정에서 확인되었던 고고학적 자료들을 토대로 주변의 사카문화권에서 확인된 고분 조사 사례들과 비교·검토하여 카타르토베 고분군 축조 집단의 매장의례를 유추해 보고자 하였다. 그들은 매장의례 과정에서 동물을 함께 매장하기도 하고 제사를 지내기도 하며, 망자를 땅속에 묻고 불을 사용한 의식을 치르기도 하였다. 그리고 이러한 매장의례는 사카문화에 있어 중요한 부분이었음을 다른 유적 사례를 통해 확인하였다. 또한 당시 하나의 봉분 아래 다수의 목곽이 설치될 경우 대부분 동시에 매장이 이루어졌으며, 망자의 죽음 시점이 다를 때는 2차장인 세골장이 이루어졌다는 것도 간접적으로 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 묘도가 발견된 경우도 있었는데, 이는 단지 매장을 위한 통로가 아닌 별도의 의식이 이루어지는 장소였음도 확인할 수 있었다. 그들의 삶에 있어 중요한 동반자 역할을 하였던 동물들도 쿠르간 내 출토되는 위치와 종류, 뼈에 나타난 흔적들을 통해 검토해보았다. 그 결과 매장 의례의 각 단계에서 서로 달리 사용됨을 알 수 있었다. 또한 동물의 매장은 출토된 위치와 동물의 종, 뼈에 나타난 흔적을 통해 다양한 의미를 내포하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 부장토기들은 인근 사카문화계 고분군들과 비교해 본 결과 대부분의 비슷한 기종들이 공헌용기로 사용되었으며, 두향을 서쪽으로 하고 있는 피장자들의 두부(頭部)쪽을 중심으로 배치되는 양상을 보였다. 한편 족부(足部)가 위치하는 목곽 모서리에 토기를 한 점씩 배치하는 것은 카타르토베 고분군 축조집단의 독특한 매장의례였다. 현재 중앙아시아 쿠르간에 대한 조사자료가 다량 축적되지 않은 상태이기 때문에 성급한 일반화를 논하기는 어려운 단계이다. 실제로 하나의 유적 내에서도 일부 정형성이 있는가 하면 그 안에서도 다양성이 내재되어 있었다. 그러나 이러한 세세한 관찰과 연구가 지속된다면 고대 유라시아 문화 네트워크 주역들의 문화를 복원하는 데 큰 성과가 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 국제지역연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.77-106
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• 2010

카자흐스탄 권력 엘리트와 씨족정치 논의의 핵심이 된 후견-수혜적 네트워크의 문제는 흔히 주즈라는 지역 및 혈통적 연결망이라는 틀을 기본으로 구성되거나 적어도 그의 상당한 영향을 받는다고 주장되어 왔다. 하지만 최근의 정치적 변화와 권력관계의 재편 과정에서 주즈 논쟁은 권력 엘리트의 부상을 설명하는데 한계가 적지 않다는 지적이 제기되고 있다. 본고는 씨족 정치 논의의 한계를 지적한 후, 핵심 권력으로 진출 면에서 상대적으로 밀려난 것으로 평가된 소주즈 출신의 엘리트에 대한 사회 배경을 중심으로 면밀한 관찰을 시도하였다. 그 결과 주즈 내부의 씨족 및 부족적 출신 배경을 권력 엘리트로 성장하는 결정적 요소라고 판단할 근거가 약함을 알 수 있었다. 카자흐스탄 엘리트 현상은 구체적인 역사 상황의 산물이다. 유목 전통 사회에서 엘리트 부상의 주요 고려점이었던 씨족적 배경은 독립 이후 현대 엘리트를 분석하는 불변의 틀이 되기 어렵다. 더욱이 2000년 이래 카자흐스탄은 신권위주의 체제의 기반이 된 대통령 영향력의 절대적 강화와 권력 내부 집단의 재편, 그리고 이들의 결정에 따라 사유화를 비롯한 경제적 변화를 경험하고 있다. 이러한 상황의 변화가 권력 엘리트의 성격에 심대한 영향을 미치고 있음은 재론할 필요가 없다. 특히 전통적으로 소주즈의 비중이 컸던 경제 분야에서 씨족적 연대가 다양한 요인들과 얽히며 자신의 모습을 드러내는 현상은 카자흐스탄의 엘리트 편제는 항상 카자흐스탄의 정치 경제적 변화의 산물임을 보여준다.