• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.538-548
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• 2000

A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.10-21
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• 2009

The shape of floral pattern in the period of Rococo are a pots, a flower and ribbon style, a flower and a stripe style, a lace style and a scene style etc, and also in that time an apperance of softness of curved line, delicacy and smoth line, irregular and unrestraint line, motive of tiny and extra ordinarily, little bunch of flowers, and stripe style was a feature. The style of presentation were a presentation of fixed style such effect as lace, and a presentation of realistically style emphasized a massiveness and a cubic effect, and also used a natural color, and the presentation of abstract expressed like imagined anything and fancied. Weaving expressed delicate, brilliant, fantastic, and an atmosphere with elegant. embroidery was expressed in creation with emphasized in reality. Printing was fantastic with exotic in development of chintz due to effection of orient. The based on a salon civilization, the refind beauty of taste of royalty gave a refinded feeling with over affectionate in preference with a softness of curved line, and a motive of tiny and extra ordinarily. The classical beauty of elegant was realistic in being concentrated on building up blance and homony. The natural beauty of romantic was in being devoted the theme with soft and fantastic.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.403-413
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제34권
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• pp.102-122
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• 2001

Uymsikdimibang(음식디미방) - a book written around 1670 and implying the methods of understanding the taste of food and drink - records many kinds of alcoholic drinks. it is obviously a practical problem to explain the process of brewing alcoholic drinks. However, if we intend to approach the alcoholic drinks on the practical aspect, we can not explain why many kinds of alcoholic drinks were brewed. I acknowledge only that it was true to have brewed rice wine easily on the basis of the increase of the production of rice and the two-crop farming system of rice and barley in a paddy field as well as, for many kinds of alcoholic drinks to have increased as a result of the development of brewage since the middle and second half of Chosun. It is not until we approach the alcoholic drinks of those days on the level of meaning, value, and symbol that we can get a correct answer as to why Uymsikdimibang records many kinds of alcoholic drinks. In the second half of Chosun, confucian ideology was firmly established in country village societies, the idea of clan rules was instituted, and patriarchal system was organized. Such a social atmosphere was to emphasize the practice of confucian moral principle such as performing religious service on one's ancestors and receiving a guest, and in the course of it, the alcoholic drinks were recognized as important materials all the more. It seems that the subdivision and elaborateness of the meaning of the alcoholic drinks were in progress. As a result, I think that the alcoholic drinks would vary in kind and be graded. From ancient times, the alcoholic drinks were men's favorite foods, and the significance of the authority and prestige given to the alcoholic drinks was increasingly promoted by the rise of the social position of men in the second half of Chosun under the influence of confucian ideology. Subsequently, the alcoholic drinks became symbols which represented even the family's tradition and dignity. Therefore, men born of the nobility(Yangban) tried to brew the various and dignified alcoholic drinks relatively. Through the brewage such as this, they endeavored to maintain their privilege. I think that the diversification of alcoholic drinks was developed in the process of a series of social-institutional change.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권
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• pp.130-139
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• 1995

디자인의 사전적 의미는 원래 '설계$cdot$계획' 이라는 뜻이다. 그것은 단순히 꾸밈이라고 하는 장식적 기능 면에 국한된 의미이지만, 대량생산 대량소비의 자본주의 시대의 현대 디자인의 개념은 산업과 예술의 만남이라고 하는 새로운 경지에 이르렀다고 할 수 ㅇ씨다. 이것은 디자인의 두 가지 측면을 의미하는데 곧 미적인 측면과 효용성 내지 유용성을 뜻하는 것이다. 미적인 측면이라 함은 소비대주으이 미적 감각을 바탕으로 고려해야 하는 것이며, 효용성 역시 소비자의 기호와 선호를 전제로 해야하는 것이 디자인의 마땅한 과제요,실천적 숙제라고 생각된다. 디자인의 발생은 자본주의적 배경 속에서 이해된다. 그러나 자본주의라 함은 서구적 정신에 뿌리를 두고 발전해 온 서구적 사고와 행동의 양식이다. 자본주의는 상업자본주의를 거쳐 산업자본주의 사회에서 자연 발생적으로 자생한 경제체제였는데, 이러한 경제사상은 미주주의와 시민사회의 성숙한 사회형태를 필수요건으로 배태된 것이다. 시만사회와 민주주의는 고대 그리스$cdot$로마의 Polis에서 연유한 것이며, 고대 그리스$cdot$로마의 사회는 귀족과 노예의 사회제도 속에서 성장한 사회제도였다. 헬레니즘을 밑바탕으로 하여, 지중해를 중심으로 한 식민지 확장의 적극적 영토 확장주의에 의해서 Polis는 반전해 나가고, 그것을 언원으로 하여 유럽의 여러 나라는 종교$cdot$사회 내지 정치 통합을 이루고 자본조의 정신을 완성시켜 나간 것이다. 우리의 디자인은 서구의 자본주의를 직수입한 데서부터 비롯되었다. 따라서 서구의 자본주의의 원형이 우리의 경제체제가 되었듯이 우리의 디자인도 서구의 그것을 그대로 모방하고 있다. 민족적 심성의 원형과 뿌리가 다른 우리의 전통문화와 감성이 이러한 이질적 전통과 갈등 관계에 있게 됨은 당연한 귀결일 것이다. 따라서 우리의 심성과 전통의 뿌리를 찾고 그에 어울리는 디자인 사고와 style을 모색하기 위한 노력은 대단히 소중하고 뜻 깊은 일이라 생각된다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.37-50
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• 2016

창옥병의 지명 오류에 대한 문제의식을 바탕으로 고지도, 옛시문, 옛그림 등의 문헌자료조사와 암각 및 조망특성에 대한 현장조사 그리고 인터뷰를 통해 창옥병의 위치를 비정하고, 이곳의 향유주체인 사암 박순과 그가 경영한 배견와 및 별업 이양정의 공간 구조와 정원적 면모를 고찰한 결과는 다음과 같다. 창옥병은 옥병서원과 일체감을 갖는 공간역으로 옛그림과 고지도 그리고 암각문의 존재로 볼 때 옥병서원 바로 앞의 석벽임을 추정할 수 있다. 이 지역과 현재 창옥병으로 알려진 오가리석벽과는 직선거리로 불과 약 460m거리에 위치하고 있어 광의의 창옥병 경관영향권으로 볼 수 있다. 시문에 등장하는 "창옥병급산금(蒼玉屛及散襟)"이란 표현에서도 산금대라 암각된 병풍바위가 바로 협의의 창옥병임이 유추된다. 또한 오가리석벽에서는 단 1점의 암각도 확인되지 않는 반면 옥병서원 전면부 암벽 도처에는 사암 박순이 명명하고 주문하여 새긴 11개소의 암각 중 8개의 경물명과 제영시가 필첩(筆帖)처럼 밀집되어 있음은 옥병서원 앞의 강벽(江壁)이 의심할 여지없는 창옥병인 것으로 비정된다. '수월정신송균절조(水月精神松筠節調)'암각은 창옥병의 향유주체였던 사암의 고매한 인격과 덕행을 함축하는 창옥병의 상징언어이자 이곳의 장소 요체(要諦)로, 기존 알려진 것과는 달리 우암 송시열의 필적으로 바로잡아야 한다. 한편 사암의 정원유적 창옥병은 왼쪽으로부터 산금대-수경대-청학대-백학대의 4개 대로 구성되어 있다. 산금대 후면에는 본제인 배견와를, 백학대 좌측의 기암석벽 위에는 별업 이양정을 조성하여 멀리 오가리석벽의 장관(壯觀)을 관망하는 조망구도를 갖도록 계획되었다. 사대(四臺)) 좌측 가장 높은 곳에 입지한 이양정은 사암의 별업이자 독서처이자 장구지소(杖屨之所)이며 그 앞 너럭바위에 존재하는 와준(窪樽)은 사암의 술풍류를 반영한 정원시설로 비정된다.