• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.73-83
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to contribute in developing guidebooks that can be used in the courses of needlework study by comparing and analyzing the contents and organizations of needlework-related teaching resources available at the present university and fashion-related educational institutions. This research could help us train technical human resources to be highly adaptable in industrial settings. The results of this study showed that the overall organization of contents is mostly divided into such categories as needlework kits, basic hand sewing, seam finishing, partial needlework and decorative needlework. The study results also indicated that such content organization must be considered in basic needlework/sewing processes and that each content needs to provide more various and detailed information by reflecting recent trends in design. Partial needlework has different applications in terms of interlining attachment, subsidiary materials, or sewing techniques; therefore, consistent descriptions and standard guidelines should be given according to what material is used and which design is planned. This study found that most teaching resources covered only needlework or sewing techniques without giving specific descriptions of types of materials, lining and interlining that can have great influence on sewing methods and instructions on how to use the materials. These findings suggest that the teaching resources need to add further technical instructions for the proper use of materials especially in response to the recent release of brand-new materials and sewing machines in the market.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.71-81
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• 2018

This study aims at exploring how the existing stereotypes of needlework, which has long been regarded as a tribute to domestic labor and hobbies which are the purview of women, have come into play in the current trend of convergence among various fields, techniques and materials. This research examines these trends based on cases in two categories applied to the fields of art and space use products. In the field of art, it can be seen that needlework is applied in a variety of ways in the overall diffusion of craftivism, which is a way of asserting opinions about politics and societies. In yarn bombing and performance art, not only do needlework experts, but also, artists of other genres, underscore their propensity of carrying out projects that take advantage of the basic principles of needlework and various physical properties. Various needlework projects applied to the space use products showed the tendency to interact with the spectator or the user as a basic element through examples of playscape, which has the function of being used for relaxation and play. The study was able to confirm the tendency of interior products, which are made from needlework to furniture and tableware directly, and the tendency of materials' expansion. Based on this research, we are going to explore the possibilities for diverse new fusion attempts in fashion and textiles, as well as art, craft and design fields, in the future.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.64-64
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• 2003

In these days western costume became everyday clothing in most of countries and is expected to be remained in that way. Therefore, it is needed to analyze how the past western costume has expressed human body stereoscopically up to the present time in order to predict future style of costume and develope various costume designs. Additionally, the pattern making and needlework techniques that were achieved through investigating history of costume in aspect of Clothing Construction, will provide significant information and inspiration to not only amateur designers but also costume researchers.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.249-265
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• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.103-114
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• 2010

This study aims to examine current status of cultural products in Mokpo city and their problems and develop cultural products design suitable to this situation. Cultural products in Mokpo sold here are made from China and have lower quality or traditional crafts and folkcrafts which can be purchased anywhere in Korea and they are not enough to show identity or image of Mokpo city. So I mixed the logos of 'mokpo city' and 'national maritime museum' based on main motive of 'modern Korean ship and shipbuilding tools' held by 'National Maritime Museum' and 'Goebukseon (turtle ship)' and 'Hanseon' which are suitable to the image of maritime culture as cultural products advocated by Mokpo city and developed one design style for print. This design is applied to T-shirts, necktie, cap, cushion and mug. Silk print, transfer print and needlework techniques are applied to each item and the whole cultural products have design of set concept. It is a case of applying modern product marketing technique to our cultural products not a design for only one item, is aimed to recreate spiritual and cultural value that a region has as daily goods to be used by general consumers and show the chance and possibility to complement shortcomings of existing cultural products and develop traditional culture having locality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.