• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.669-678
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• 2022

The Haeundae beach and coast suffered synthetical dramatic changes especially in the nearshore topography by the beach nourishment project (i.e., 2013-2015). A previous study showed the rip current characteristics were changed according to the topographical change in terms of their magnitudes and likelihoods through numerical simulations using the FUNWAVE model. The magnitude and likelihood of rip currents decreased because the surfzone width decreased just after the beach nourishment. In this study, however, numerical simulations of the Haeundae rip currents were performed by using the 2017- and 2020-surveyed topographies changed for several years after the beach nourishment. From the simulation results using the topographies surveyed before and after the beach nourishment, it was found that the magnitude and likelihood of rip currents increased due to its increasing surfzone width in 2017 and 2020 and they might be increasing larger than those before the beach nourishment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.187-196
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• 1998

Morphological changes around the groin system in the beach are examined using a numerical model. The model consists of two parts : the hydrodynamic model which calculates the transformation of waves and currents, and the sediment transport model which determines sediment transport rates and bottom topographic changes. The numerical model is applied to single-groin and three-groin systems on a typical plane beach. The changes to the beach system due to waves and currents during 150-day simulation near the groins are calculated using sediment transport rate patterns in the domain. The sand by-passing rate patterns around groins are also evaluated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.209-214
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• 2006

The East Sea Branch (ESB) of KORDI will be launched in 2008. She will take a role of monitoring the sea surface topography and temperature by satellites, short- and long-term sea levels by tide gauges, coastal currents and open-sea circulation by setting up coastal radars and mooring current-meters and acoustic equipments, as well as monitoring nearshore processes, coastal erosion and water pollution. A basic program of coastal zone management will help ocean-policy makers to set up right decisions based upon scientific background of the regional data in the East Sea. Networking among the neighboring countries around the sea will supply more useful information not only for experts but also for ordinary vacationers or fishermen. In order for this program to be successfully settled down during the next decade, it is necessary for a leader to have the right vision to attract more experts from global brain pools and to manage the ESB as a leading-edge observatory in the world. Details about this leading-edge operational program are introduced in the text.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.307-320
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• 2021

Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.257-262
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• 2002

Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered from accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the case of a narrow tidal range at Nakdong river's estuary area to understand the effect of water level variation on the littoral drift. Simulations are conducted in terms of incident wave direction and tidal level. Characteristics of wave transformation, nearshore current, sediment transport, and bottom change are shown and analyzed. We found from the simulation that the tidal level impact to the sediment transport is very important and we should apply the numerical model with different water level to analyze sediment transport mechanism correctly. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.415-422
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• 2009

The wave observation system in Korea has been established with an emphasis on pointmeasurement based on in situ instrumentations. However, the system cannot fully investigate the coastal wave-related problems that are significantly localized and intensified with three-dimensional regional geometries. Observation technique that can cover local processes with large time and spatial variation needs to be established. Video imaging techniques that can provide continuous monitoring of coastal waves and related phenomena with high spatial and temporal resolutions at minimum cost of instrumentation risks are reviewed together with present status of implementation in Korea. Practical applications of the video imaging techniques are suggested to tackle with various coastal issues of public concern in Korea including, real-time monitoring of wave runup and overtopping of swells on the east coast of Korea, longshore and rip currents, morphological and bathymetric changes, storm surge and tsunami inundation, and abnormal extreme waves in the west coast of Korea, etc.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.1
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• pp.51-56
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• 2006

부유식 해상공항과 같은 초대형 부체 구조물(VLFS)의 연안역 설치 후 발생할 수 있는 배후의 해빈변형을 예측하기 위한 토대를 마련하기 위한 기초 연구를 수행하였다. 이를 위해 일정 사면을 가진 천해역에서의 실험 결과를 통하여 비교적 수심이 깊은 곳에 설치된 매립식 구조물 배후에서의 파랑 및 해빈류를 개관하였으며, 매립식 및 부유식 해상 구조물 설치 시 주변 해역의 파랑 및 해빈류장을 계산하였다. 파랑장에 있어서 라프라스 방정식 토대로 유한요소법을 도입한 3차원 파랑 변형 계산을 수행함으로써 매립식 및 부유식 구조물 모두에 대해 적용 가능하였으며, 해상 구조물의 설치 형식이 매립식 및 부유식 경우에 대해 파랑, 해빈류 분포의 변화를 관찰할 수 있었다.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

Recently it was known that the problems of nearshore processes and damage of berth and counter facilities frequently had appeared at the small fishery port, such as Daebang near Samcheonpo city, Korea. Here we try to analyze the impact of the rearrangement of counter facilities and berth layout adopted for tranquility of its inner harbor. Because this harbor is being connected to Daebang channel, the rearrangement of the structures might affect to the current speed and direction and wave height, so do to the sea bottom undulation. Therefore, we made model test for the several layouts of the berth and breakwater in this area. Numerical model result shows that the bottom was eroded by 1m by tidal currents and the speed of flow did not shrink, even after the construction work was completed. The direction of the sand movement was downdrift. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and approach channel sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to compare with the field history, including the records of waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.