• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1054-1065
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• 2006

This study aims to provide basic data conducive to developing popular and international products by analyzing the mechanism, factors and design of ethnic sports fashion incorporating ethnicity and sports sense that may satisfy the physical and psychological needs of modern humans who tend to seek 'well- being'. The methodology includes literature reviews and positivist study, and visual materials include domestic and foreign fashion magazines, newspapers, fashion journals, ad photos, collection photos, and internet that cover colors, materials, detailed sports fashion design that are considered to have an ethnic image. Its scope is limited to the period from 2000 through 2005 S/S. The results of study are as follows: First, sports fashions through incorporation of sports emotion and fashion, mixes and matches existing formal wear, casual wear, or leisure wear with sportswear, or introduces and utilizes materials, details, accessories, or image from sportswear. Second, 1) from the changes by year in sports fashion, ethnic images were strongly expressed by the influence of naturalism in the early 1990s, and functional sports fashion has been fused with ethnic image with functionalism becoming stronger and wellbeing trend expanding from the mid 1990s through 2000s. 2) The cause of ethnic image in sports fashion included hybrid, multi-culturalism, and naturalism. Third, the ethnic images revealed in the sports fashion designs of Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Y3 are simple and unique based on functionality and activism.

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.141-142
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• 2008

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.58-59
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.125-140
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to define the special characteristics of the neoclassic style in eighteenth to nineteenth century fashion. Researching into philosophy and aesthetics in eighteenth to nineteenth century, the characteristics of the neoclassic style in fashion is considered the clarity of form, the utility of function, and the sensuality combined with body. The results of this study are as follows: The clarify of form is found in geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body in relation with rational and scientific thoughts. The utility of function is found in simple and suitable construction considering purely practical purpose of dresses. The sensuality combined with body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism. Understanding aesthetic value of the neoclassic style will help to develop fashion designs associated with neoclassical forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.146-162
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• 2009

In the current product and fashion design, the 'eco-friendliness' is affecting practically and conceptually on all the sectors of industry and culture. Therefore, this study seeks to examine specific values in the concept of eco-friendly design. The subjects of this paper are studied on the scholarly journals, and are confined to those from 1990, when naturalism and ecology trend started to be in product and fashion, to the moment of search of February 2009. This study used 'Naturalism', 'Green', 'Environment-friendly', 'Eco', 'Sustainable', 'Well-being' and 'Lohas' as key words for the search. Analysis is performed by content analysis and the unit of analysis was based upon the adjectives, nouns and phrases which is related key words in the concept of eco-friendly design. The study realized that there are personal value, environmental value, economic value, and social value in the concept of eco-friendly design. In the result, it is not enough to consider the effect on environment only. Understanding the personal, environmental, economic, and social value from the viewpoint of customers, finding the optimal design factors, and reflecting them in development of product and fashion are necessary to pave the way for advanced eco-friendly design. The results of this paper would help to the future product and fashion development for eco-friendly brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1325-1336
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• 2009

This study is to find the interpretation of Korean aesthetics with emotional, relative, synthetic thinking in the ambiguity of characteristics of multi-culturalism and ambivalence in contemporary beauty design. Beauty design incorporates makeup and hair design to complete the total images with clothing in fashion shows and Korean aesthetics based on Korean religion and art that include the symbolism of humor, irregularity, moderation, harmony, unification, and emptiness. This study analyzes 864 works of make-up and hair design from 2001 S/S to 2009 F/W to understand the beauty design to summarize the natural, eclectic, classic, poor, humor, and decadent tendencies. The characteristics of aesthetics sense of Beauty Design are summarized as artless naturalism, integrate pluralism, de-constructive deviation, and temperate poverty.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.79-87
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• 2006

Now thus season trend, we can see the multi and digital trend. Specially it was very sensational in fur trend. Many designer showed very shocking and mixed design, silhouette is bulky and fusion short. The background are rise up of kidult, naturalism, techno casual sense, new avangarde. Now, fur is not the classic item anymore. It is necessary to change funny and trendy casual item.