• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.31-34
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• 2001

The color difference values of dyed fabrics with colorant in Eucommiae Cortex were as follows; One hour of dyeing depending on pH at $95^{\circ}C$ exhibited colors of dark brown, light brown, light beige and grey. The colors of wool, nylon and silk was darkest brown at pH 3 but light brown or yellow as pH increased. In all dyed fabrics the color was changed to darker brown as time prolonged, however; there was no further color change and value and chroma of wool declined. At pH 3, the increase in temperature turned colors of all dyed fabrics into dark brown from light yellow. As the result of repetitive dyeing, colors of all dyed fabrics gradually turned into darker brown. The methods of mordant resulted in color changes between light yellow and dark brown without various color changes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.953-960
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.63-71
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• 2022

This paper aims to compare and verify the antibacterial effects of cotton fabrics naturally dyed with extracts of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica Nakai, Caesalpinia sappan, Saururus chinensis, and Artemisia princeps against antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. After natural dyeing of the test fabric, Al, Cu, Fe mordants were used. The color fastness against washing, rubbing, and perspiration of the cotton fabrics dyed with the 4 types of extracts were mostly excellent. However, the color fastness against light showed poor results for all four types. As for the antibacterial test method, MRSA (ATCC 33591) was applied to the cotton fabrics dyed with the four kinds of extracts and cultured for 24 hours. After that, the bacteria that proliferated on the fabrics were collected and spread on a solid medium. The bacteria were measured to find out the bacteriostatic reduction rate for the antibiotic-resistant strains. As a result of the analysis, all four extracts showed a high bacteriostatic reduction rate of more than 99% when the copper mordant was used. Even with the lack of a mordant, the bacteriostatic reduction rate was high, at 99.9% for Caesalpinia sappan and 94.6% for Saururus chinensis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.15-27
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• 2014

A natural colorant was extracted from Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell as extractants. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of extracts and dyeing/mordanting conditions on colorimetric changes of ramie fabrics. The color of fabrics tended to become darker as the numbers of dyeing process and mordanting process increased using three kinds of extracts. As the numbers of dyeing and mordanting increased, the ramie fabrics gradually increased to show reddish and bluish signs using Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica, and gromwell extracts(500ml and 1,000ml). In the case of 1,500ml of gromwell extracts, the ramie fabrics showed the color with more redness and yellowness. Color difference (${\Delta}E$) of dyed and mordanted fabrics increased as the numbers of dyeing and mordanting processes increased. The apparent colors of ramie fabrics using Acer ginnala were Y and GY. The Alnus japonica extracts produced Y and GY colors on ramie fabrics. With varying amount of gromwell extracts, the colors of dyed and mordanted fabrics were R, YR, GY, G, PB, P and RP, however, the main color was PB. It was concluded that the extracts of Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell can be used as a natural dye producing black colors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.702-708
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 2002

In order to investigate the light fastness of Korean knotweed extract, the concentrate were prepared and dyed to silk fabric under the various conditions, such as kinds of mordants, methods of mordanting, and the dye concentration. After the deed fabrics were irradiated for several hours, the color differences and K/S values were measured. Additionally, the light fastness of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution was compared. The light fastness of silk fabrics deed with Korean knotweed extract was improved by the Introduction of Fe-mordant, but the surface colors on the dyed fabrics shaded into reddish and dark yellow by 80hours irradiation. Color difference of fabrics were increased wish concentrations of Korean knotweed extracts. So inconsistent fading behaviour was observed. Color difference of dyed fabrics increased remarkably at the early stage of fading and became slowly down except for Fe-mordanted fabric. Absorbance of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution were extremely decreased with concentrations of colorants, so inconsistent fading behaviour was observed too.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.803-809
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• 2004

In order to activate the characteristics of charcoal in fiber systems, this was carried out to experiment with the particle size from two micrometers to ten micrometers of charcoal powders on cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows; The fabrics were dyed with gray colors by charcoal. The K/S values, that were indicative of the dye affinity, became higher as the increase of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing concentration. Also it was confirmed the morphology of the fiber surfaces adsorbed with the particle size from two micrometers to four micrometers of charcoal powder by scanning electronmicronscope. The cotton fabrics dyed by charcoals generally recorded 3-4 degree of wash fastness, 4-5 degree of dry-cleaning fastness, 4-5 degree acidic and alkaline perspirations and water fastness. In connection with the functional properties, cotton fabrics dyed with charcoal appeared that antibacterial, deodorization, far infrared emissivity were improved. Especially the deodorization was improved greatly by using charcoal.