• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.182-189
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cow leather was investigated with Tumeric powder. The effects of dyeing conditions, mordanting conditions, color change, and color fastnesses were studied. The results were as follows. The dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and bath ratio increased. In the effect of dyeing time, the highest dye uptakes showed at 20 minutes and decreased after that point. Pre mordanting was more effective than the post mordanting, and the dye uptakes improved all mordanted fabrics. The highest K/S values showed in pre-Al sample, and the lowest K/S values showed in post-Cu one. The values of Hunter on the samples were more changeable $L^*$ and $b^*$ than $a^*$, and all samples showed Yellow color in Munsell value. But the mordanting methods and mordanting agents were not significant in the color changes. The light fastness of dyed samples showed 1 grade, the dry cleaning and abrasion fastnesses did not improved except post-Fe wet sample.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.438-445
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• 2009

경산반시'를 8월 1일에 수확하여 신선한 즙액, $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$에서 6개월간 저장한 것 및 상온에서 6개월간 발효시킨 것(발효액), 그리고 감식초의 특성과 항균성을 조사하였다. 명도를 나타내는 $L^*$값은 감식초가 43.5로 다소 밝은데 비해 신선한 즙액과 발효액은 각각 33.1과 33.3으로 다소 낮은 경향을 나타내었다. 신선한 즙액, 발효액 및 감식초의 무기물 함량은 전반적으로 K($1696{\sim}2,880\;mg$/100 g), Ca($166.7{\sim}417.9\;mg$/100 g), Mg($203.9{\sim}214.4\;mg$/100 g), P($37.9{\sim}109.8\;mg$/100 g), Na($13.2{\sim}23.3\;mg$/100 g), Fe($8.4{\sim}14.2\;mg$/100 g) 순으로 많았다. 그람양성균에 대한 항균효과는 발효액과 감식초에서 저해환이 $16.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$로 높게 나타났다. 그람음성균에 대한 항균효과는 신선한 즙액에서 $9.0{\sim}9.5\;mm$의 저해환을 나타낸 반면에 저온 저장한 즙액은 $15.0{\sim}21.0\;mm$, 발효액에서는 $22.0{\sim}23.0\;mm$, 감식초에서는 $9.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$을 나타내었다. 발효액으로 염색한 면직물의 색상은 YR계열을 나타내었으며, 항균성은 78.5% 이상의 정균율을 나타내었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.752-758
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• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

본 연구는 우리나라 대표적인 전통 천연염색 기술인 풋감 염색의 단점인 뻣뻣한 촉감을 개선하고 천연자원을 효율적으로 활용하기 위하여 갈조류 감태와의 이성분 복합염료를 제조하여 염색성을 타진하고자 하였다. 풋감과 감태로 각 단일염료를 제조하고 단일염료 간의 혼합 비율을 달리한 동시 일욕염색을 실시한 결과, 전통 풋감 염색직물과의 색채의 차이가 허용 가능하고 염색 직물의 강연성이 가장 낮아져서 촉감의 개선이 기대되는 최적의 감태 혼합비율은 6%로 판단하였다. 이 혼합 비율로 풋감과 감태의 단일 염료를 혼합하여 열수추출과 필터링을 거쳐 동결건조시킨 이성분 복합염료를 제조하여, 염료의 입자 크기가 각 단일염료보다 미세하며, 풋감의 기능성 성분인 카테킨 함량이 유지됨을 확인하였다. 또한 이성분 복합염료로 염색한 면직물은 일욕염색 직물보다 전통 풋감 단일염색 직물과의 색차가 더 적어서 전통 풋감 염색과 시각적으로 차이가 없었으며, 강연성이 더 낮아져서 뻣뻣한 촉감이 완화되는 것으로 사료되었다. 따라서 풋감/감태의 이성분 복합염료는 풋감을 이용한 전통 천연염색 제품의 촉감을 개선할 뿐 아니라, 천연자원을 효율적으로 활용하는 데에 도움이 될 것으로 기대된다.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 $40^{\circ}C$와 $60^{\circ}C$에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 $80^{\circ}C$에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YR${\rightarrow}$Y 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 $L^*$값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 $L^*$값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, $L^*$값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 $L^*$ 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.144-154
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• 2011

Polygoum tinctoria dye is the one using the method of reducing dyeing, and so is made by the mechanism different from natural dye in general, and the reproductive dye is more difficult because it varies in accordance with manufacturing method and days being manufactured in case of natural indigo dye that has been used traditionally. In addition, overall analysis is short of color changes in accordance with natural dyeing condition and barely none of the research for cellulose system such as cotton in particular. Accordingly, this study tries to research on the natural dyeing method optimal for color development that is desirable in designing and development of natural dyeing as comparing and contemplating the change of dyeing quality and color in accordance with reduction temperature and time, reductant quantity, dyeing temperature and time, NaOH quantity, and dyeing repetition times in order to expand dyeing methods and use variously polygoum tinctoria by improving traditional dyeing methods as well as to establish exact dyeing method of cotton which is a fabric of cellulose system in order to make such polygoum tinctoria quantificated and reproductive. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Reducing temperature is $50^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of the reducing agent is $3g/{\ell}$. Reducing time is 30minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is $1g/{\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1991

The textile fabric have the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various texitle fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural nor synthetic, has all the functions. In this sence, many blend yarns have been improved various functions of fabric. However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, especially in the case of blend fabric of silk. In this study, we dyed silk/PET blend fabric in one step useing one bath dyeing method by acid dyes/disperse dyes. The results of the experiments can be summarized as follows; 1) Yellow index of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ increased about 7.8 (color difference 4.5 NBS) and whiteness decrease about 5%. 2) Both elongation and tensile strength of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ of pH 5-6 decreased about 10% and tensile strength of silk spun yarn treated at $60^{\circ}C$ of pH 10 have little changed. 3) While silk/PET blend frbric dyeing, silk soiling of disperse dyes causes from difference of dyeing rate and degree of silk soiling with dyes. 4) Fastness and soiling of silk/PET blend fabric dyed by one bath dyeing method of acid dyes/disperse dyes was same as two bath dyeing method.