• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제38권6호
• /
• pp.929-941
• /
• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제23권6호
• /
• pp.788-799
• /
• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.48-52
• /
• 2001

The study was conducted to find out suitable flame proofing on silk fabrics and to examine closely the flame retardancy effect and the physical properties changes of the silk, which was dyed by natural dyes and synthetic dyes, treated with agent (Diphenylbutylamidophosphate (DPBAP)). The results of the study were as follows: 1) Silk could be treated with DPBAP easily soluble in water by means of simple Pad-Dry-Cure. 2) The add-on of silk fabrics dyed by natural dyes was more than that of silk fabrics dyed by synthetic dyes. 3) The silk fabrics dyed by india ink among natural dyes has more flame retardancy effect in before treating with flame proofing agent than in after treating with it. 4) The physical properties (stiffness and tensile strength) of the silk fabrics treated with flame retardancy agent were little changed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제21권6호
• /
• pp.29-38
• /
• 2009

Natural dyes seem to be more profitable on human and environment, and recently they could be considered as a better alternative to synthesized dyes. The aim of the current work was to investigate the dyeing property and antimicrobial activity of commercial cotton fabrics dyed with kumazasa (usually called in japan) which is known as conventional japan bamboo leaves. Actually, the dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed fabric with natural mordant/dyeing was compared with synthetic mordant/dye process. The results of this study obtained are as follows. The apparently colour of kumazasa leaves extract dyed fabrics showed with light green or slightly yellow-green. In colorfastness to washing, ${\Delta}E$ and K/S values of dyed fabrics with natural chitosan as mordant used was shown to be more excellent results, than was synthetic mordant used. However, the decrease rate was recorded nearly 50% when washing repeated 20 cycles. In result of antimicrobial effect for bacteria, the dyed fabrics didn't show the significant antimicrobial activity to the both dyed with and without mordant. Results of this investigation considered that low-cost, natural, bio-mordant are relatively effective in natural coloration.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.45-53
• /
• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국농촌생활과학회지
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.73-81
• /
• 1997

Parsimon juice dyeing is the one of the most popular natural dyeing methods which have been done traditionally among the farmers. The clothes dyed with parsimon juice has several merits, that is, it become much more durable, cool, easy to wash and wear after dyeing and these merits are the reason why people likes to wear the parsimon juice dyeing clothes as work wear. Especially in Cheju province, parsimon juice clothes became a folk costume and many people still enjoy wearing it in the hot summer days. But one of the demerits of parsimon dyeing is that the possible period of dyeing is very short. So, if parsimon juice dyeing could be done with the preserved parsimon juice, it would be possible to enlength the period. With this idea, we compared the color and colorfastness of fabrics which were dyed with 4 kinds of parsimon juice. The experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was preserved during 13 months, 96-9 was 12 months, 97-8 was 1 month and 97-9 was not preserved one. The experimental fabrics were cotton, silk. nylon and polyester fabrics. The results were as follows ; 1. The colors of fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 96-9, 97-8, 97-9 were yellow-red and dyeing states were good. But the colors of fabrics dyed with 96-8 were dark and the state were bad, because the color of experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was changed during preservation. 2. The best state of dyeing could see in the fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 97-8, although that was preserved 1 month. 3. There were differences of color between experimental fabrics dyed with same juice and the colors were thicker in cotton and silk than in nylon and polyester fabrics. 4. During wetting and drying process, the color changes in fabrics dyed with no preserved one were more than in fabrics dyed with preserved ones. 5. The color fastness to the light of the dyed fabrics was over 4, to the acidic perspiration was 3~4 or 4~5, to the alkaline perspiration was 2, 3 or 3~4 and to the washing was 1~2. There was no significant difference in colorfastness between the 96-9 dyed fabrics and 97-9 dyed fabrics.

• 복식
• /
• 제28권
• /
• pp.205-212
• /
• 1996

This paper is to study the characteristics of fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton silk rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringet unripe persimmon juice. The structures of natural fabrics dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were examined by scanning electron mi-croscopy. Surface reflexibility of VIS trans-mittance of UV VIS and NIR were analyzed. The study conclues as follows: 1. Colour of cotton fabrics dyed with persim-mon juice became darkended as a function of exposing time to sunlight. That colour was chaged after washing. 2. Blocking effect of ultraciolet light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly and the blocking effect was still remained after 9 washings. 3. Persimmon juice dyeing produced coating effect to fabrics besides dyeing effect accord-ing to the scanning electron micrographs. In a word the cotton fabric dyed with per-simmon juice has blocking effect of UV light stiffness. Therefore I think persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing and ex-pect a wide application of the technique in fu-ture.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.320-330
• /
• 2012

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing are $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics were dyed in pre-mordanting. The K/S value of dyeing fabrics could be increased with repetitive dyeing and mordanting. Compared to untreated dyed fabrics, the K/ S values of fabrics which had been treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were increased. The changed surface colors of fabrics that were treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were Y, YR and achromatic colors. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color. Sn-mordanted fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed vivid yellowish color, and Cu-mordanted fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed yellowish green color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness was level 4. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the powder of guava leaf extract and the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.327-336
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the color image of the natural-dyed silk fabrics. The dye was extracted from pine needle by boiling pine needle with ethanol at $78^{\circ}C$ for 3hours and distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for 2hours. The 100% silk fabric was dyed of extract in pH 5 at $90-100^{\circ}C$ for 1 hr. As mordants used were compounds of Al, Sn, Fe, and Cr, color image of pine-needle dyed silk fabrics was classified into 5 factors (pure, gentle, sophisticate, comfortable, pastorale) and the factor pure is most important one of those. Most cheerful image in pure factor was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, none and Cr mordanting. Dignified image was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, Cu or Fe mordanting. In production, products dyed with ethanol extracts was preferred to those dyed with distilled water extracts. Color image and preference of the silk fabrics dyed with pine needles extracted was affected by extraction solvents and mordants.