• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제16권12호
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• pp.593-602
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• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 적색계 천연염료를 이용한 견직물의 무매염 염색을 다룬 국내논문들을 고찰하여 무매염 염색의 염색성을 알아보는 것이다. 연구대상인 천연염재는 자색 고구마, 봉선화, 오디, 광나무 열매, 구아바 잎, 단삼, 히비스커스 꽃, 복숭아나무 전정가지로 총 8가지이다. 염색실험의 결과는 색차식에 의하여 $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, C 및 ${\Delta}E^*$와 Munsell표에 의한 H V/C, Kubelka Munk식에 따라 K/S값을 산출하여 표면색을 측정하여 살펴보았다. 염색실험 변인은 염액농도, 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색반복횟수이며, 변인의 변화에 따라 염색성과 색채특성을 알아보았다. 문헌고찰 결과, 염색실험 변인은 견직물에 대한 천연염료의 염착성과 상관관계가 있을 뿐만 아니라 적색 발현에도 상관관계가 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 천연염색 과정에서 환경오염을 일으키는 반복적인 염색이나 매염제 사용 등을 하지 않아도 적색이 다양하게 발현되고 염색성도 우수할 수 있음을 보였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.29-30
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• 2010

Cotton fabric is usually dyed with anionic dyes such as direct and reactive dyes. Naturally, there is no affinity for basic dyes to cotton fiber. In this study, to improve the dyeability of cotton fiber with cationic dyes, the fabric was pretreated with air plasma and grafted with acrylic acid to create acidic groups on the surface of cotton fibers. The grafted samples were dyed with natural cationic dye extracted from roots of berberis vulgaris. The effect of plasma treatment and grafting of acrylic acid on the color strength of cotton fabric was studied.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.230-234
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• 2006

In this study, we describe a one-step chemoenzymatic reaction for the production of natural blue pigments, in which the geniposide from Gardenia extracts is transformed by glycosidases to genipin. Genipin is then allowed to react with amino acids, thereby generating a natural blue pigment. The ${\beta}-glycosidases$, most notably Isolase (a variant of ${\beta}-glucanase$), recombinant ${\beta}-glycosidases$, Cellulase T, and amylases, were shown to hydrolyze geniposide to produce the desired pigments, whereas the ${\alpha}-glycosidases$ did not. Among the 20 tested amino acids, glycine and tyrosine were associated with the highest dye production yields. The optimal molar ratio of geniposide to glycine, two reactants relevant to pigment production, was unity The natural blue pigments produced in this study were used to dye cotton, silk, and wool. The color yields of the pigments were determined to be significantly higher than those of other natural dyes. Furthermore, the color fastness properties of these dyes were fairly good, even in the absence of mordant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.619-627
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• 2000

Historically, dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense, reserved only for people of wealth and specalist, Early dye sources probably included plant, animal and mineral extracts. As synthetic dyes have been developed, beginning with synthetic indigo in 1897, reliance on natural dye sources diminished. But renewed interest in natural dyes is fueled by a pro-environment consumer aware of the ecological liabilities of the dye industry. Han Jee was imported from China where it was influenced to period of the three kingdoms(Silla, Baekje, Kokuryo). After that, Han Jee was used for paper in old Korea for long thime before paper was came with civilization. In this paper, dyeing of Han Jee with loess were investigated according to dyeing temperature, dyeing time, loess concentration, and effects of additives. As a reuslts, λmax of Han Jee dyed by loess was 710nm. ΔE values of Han Jee increased by loess concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature. Dyeing with additives treatment increased dyeability. Especially, Han Jee treated with aluminium acetate shows the largest dyeability of the Han Jee. The Han Jee dyed loess had very good lightfastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.39-46
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• 2003

The experiments about dyeing concentration, temperature and time were done using yellow, red and purple loess as natural inorganic dyes in order to verify a degree of dyeing, characteristics of color and fastness. The results were as following; 1. As a result of analyzing components of loess, purple loess was much than other loess in quartz component and coarse particles contained. This affected to the degree of dyeing. 2. The stronger dyeing concentration was, the more the degree of dyeing was improved, and yellow loess containing fine particles was the best in the degree of dyeing. 3. When it was dyed with raising up to $100^\circ{C}$ for 10 minutes after stirring for 20 minutes at $60^\circ{C}$, was better than on starting at $40^\circ{C}$ or $80^\circ{C}$ in the degree of dyeing. Also yellow loess was the best in these experiments. 4. Washing fastness of loess was low such as other natural dyes, but dyeing wasn't transferred to other textiles. On the other hand, light fastness of it was very excellent and rubbing fastness was relatively good as 3~3.5.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.157-161
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• 2013

쿠마린 성분이 포함된 식물로부터 염료감응 태양전지에 사용되는 저렴하고 친환경적인 천연 염료를 개발하였다. 염료는 쿠마린 유도체가 포함된 계피와 당귀로부터 추출하였으며 이를 이용하여 염료감응 태양전지를 제작하였다. 계피염료로부터 0.75%의 태양전지 효율을 얻었으며, 이는 기존 천연염료 태양전지에 관한 연구 결과와 비교하여 최고 수준임을 확인하였다. 아울러 자외선-가시광선 분광분석 및 푸리에변환 적외선 분석을 이용하여 식물에 포한된 쿠마린 유도체가 광감응 물질임을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.125-135
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• 2004

Hair coloring before the 1980s was mostly to hide white hair by dying in black. With the introduction of color TV, however, the size of the coloring market has been expanding. Nowadays, artificial synthetic dyes are widely used, which, though advantageous in many points, have problems such as harmful effects on the human body, carcinogenesis, environmental contamination and damage on hair. On the contrary, natural vegetables obtained from Curcuma Longa L., A. catechu, polygonum indigo, henna, etc. are little harmful to hair or the skin of the head and cause few environmental problems. In addition, as they are natural materials collected from nature, they are considered positively by consumers. Thus the present study started from the necessity of research on the convenient use of environment?friendly and side-effect-free natural dyes, coloring technology for reproducing original color, the improvement of adhesion rate, etc. From the present research were obtained yellow color from Curcuma Longa L., brown from A. catechu, blue from polygonum indigo and orange from henna. It is expected that, based on materials from previous researches, there may be more researches on the use of natural dyes as hair colors.