• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.25-30
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• 1979

Le propos de la presente consideration est de deceler Ie probleme du costume au niveau de probleme de l'art pur qui, comme dit Hegel, repond a un besoin primitif qui consiste a exterioriser et a concretiser les representations et les idees nees dans I'esprit humain. II va de soi que c'est une sorte de problemes appartenants a la theorie generale du costume. Mais il nous semble que chez nous on a neglige d'analyser les elements du costume sous l'angle de cette exteriorisation de l'idee esthetique que nous avons essay de souligner. Nous avons pris cette fois, pour un modele de ce sujet, les costumes sous Justinien (527-565) de l'Empire byzantin.

• International Journal of Contents
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.11-17
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• 2021

This article takes Disney animation as the research object to analyze the Chinese and American culture in the animation. The first part introduces the background of the animation. The theme of the animation comes from the long-standing narrative folk song Mulan Ci during the Southern and Northern Dynasties of China, and it introduces the parallel montage of animation narrative. The second part narrates the Chinese cultural elements in Mulan, and expounds on Disney's use and blending of Chinese cultural elements from three aspects of ink painting effect, national costumes and Confucianism. From the perspective of Western culture, the third part analyzes how to integrate Western thought and characteristics, and contrast with Chinese culture in Mulan from three aspects: Mushu, character and hierarchy.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

본 연구는 2015년 9월, 보물 제1879호로 지정된 동국대학교 박물관 소장 <희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식을 고찰한 것이다. <희경루방회도>는 1567년 6월 광주목(光州牧) 관아의 희경루(喜慶樓)에서 개최된 동방(同榜) 계회(契會)를 그린 것으로, 방회(榜會)의 주인공인 관료 5인과 관아 소속의 향리(鄕吏), 아전(衙前), 나장(羅將), 조례(?隷), 악공(樂工), 여기(女妓), 동기(童妓) 등 다양한 신분의 남녀가 묘사되어 있다. 이들이 착용하고 있는 복식을 밝히기 위해 문헌자료와 복식유물, 회화자료 등을 활용하였으며 연구범위는 겉으로 드러나는 두식(頭飾)과 포류(袍類), 그에 따른 부속품류로 한정하였다. 현직에 있는 시임관료(時任官僚)는 사모(紗帽) 홍단령(紅團領)을 착용하였다. 그 외에 품계에 따른 품대(品帶)와 흑화(黑靴)를 신었을 것으로 추정된다. 현직에서 물러난 원임관료(原任官僚)는 말총[마미(馬尾)]이나 사(紗)로 싼 흑립(黑笠)에 홍직령과 도아(?兒) 등을 착용하였다. 향리는 흑죽방립(黑竹方笠)에 흰색 직령(直領)을 입고 도아를 띠었다. 고려시대에는 방립이 왕 이하 지식층에서 썼던 관모였지만 조선전기에는 향리의 관모로 전락하였는데 그 착용 모습이 <희경루방회도>에서 확인되었다. 아전은 흰색 직령에 흑립을 쓰고 도아를 띠었다. 나장은 조건(?巾)을 쓰고 철릭 위에 반비의(半臂衣)를 착용하는 것이 규정이었지만 <희경루방회도> 속 나장은 반비의를 착용하지 않고 조건과 철릭만 착용한 모습이었다. 또한 조례는 포(布)로 싼 흑립에 홍철릭을 착용하고, 악공은 소모자에 홍철릭을 착용하였다. 나장 이하 하속은 허리에 모두 청색 계통의 도아를 둘렀다. 여기(女妓)와 동기(童妓)는 주인공의 시중을 들거나 춤을 추고 연주를 하고 있었는데 여기들은 크게 부풀린 둥근 고계(高?)에 홍색 대요(臺腰)를 두르고 곧은 깃 또는 젖힌 깃의 황장삼(黃長衫)을 입고 허리띠를 둘렀다. 동기는 뒤쪽에 양 갈래로 짧게 땋아 내린 머리에 교임형 홍색 포를 착용하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.68-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to investigate the characteristics of Chinese minority women's waistbands, in view of their lifestyle, costume, and symbolism. The research method combined literature research and case study. In the case study, this research targeted the secondary data of a total of 215 pieces from books, articles and the internet. A total of 5 pieces per each representative women's waistband of 43 minorities, excluding those who did not wear a waistband, we collected. We then quantitatively analyzed the form and decoration of the waistbands. As a result of considering the form, the waistbands of Chinese minorities per region were closely related to the costumes, mainly showing high similarity in respect to color and decoration. Moreover, the decorations of the waistbands were most often made from their own area's special products, such as silver, bronze, cotton, and linen, amongst other. The form and decoration of the Chinese minority women's waistbands were all connected with functionality, aesthetic impression, and symbolism, which can be said to be an important part of understanding Chinese minority costume culture. This research contributes to the development and preservation of Chinese minorities' costume culture by considering and analyzing unique costume factors besides giving excellent fashion design ideas for contemporary fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.132-148
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• 2014

The objective of this research is to provide data for the power dressing of female politicians when analyzing the fashion styling of Margaret Thatcher. The method is based on considering Margaret Thatcher's life and political career, together with the power dressing of politicians from domestic and foreign literature, advanced research and internet. In addition, 133 clothing photos of Margaret Thatcher's costumes are collected from the internet and several web-sites. The fashion styling being displayed from 4 May 1979 to 28 November 1990 are classified with the 1st term, 2nd term, 3rd term depending on the prime minister. We then analyze items, colors, patterns and fashion accessories. And also observe the power dressing through Thatcher's fashion styling. The results of this study are as follows: Margaret Thatcher expresses authority through blue clothes which symbolizes conservatism at conservative parties, black clothes at formal parties, two or three piece of various colors at international conferences. She also has simple and impressive styles emphasizing accessories such as ribbons or pearls necklaces and earrings, brooches, and handbags. Margaret Thatcher fulfills the styling power dressing of a strong and feminine figure by using items symbolizing authority as a powerful woman.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.146-161
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics and images of costume colors in Korean Masque Drama. For this study, 242 color samples were selected by extracting digital color data by using the Eyedropper Tool of Photoshop 7.0. The RGB color data were transformed to HV/C and the attributes of color and tone were analyzed. Color images were analyzed with the IRI color image scale. As a result, neutral, red, purple blue, and yellow were found to be the most frequently used colors in the Korean Masque costumes. In the ton analysis, white tone showed high frequency and next orders were dp, s, v, b, sf. In the hue & tone, the most frequent color was white, followed by R(v), PB(dp), R(dp), YR(s), GY(s) and mGY. Color images were focused on dynamic, gorgeous, and natural images.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2006

This Study is about the color images oi clothes in the early 20th century in the Eastern and Western culture and the recreation of this color images through modern costume design in film. The aim of this study is to show how early 20th century color has born reinterpreted through present film costumes and how different cultural perspectives can influence color images. For the purposes of this study, 30 pictures of clothing, representative of the early 20th century, as well as films which have been internationally recognized for their costume design and strong cultural identity('Farewell M) 'Concubine', 'Raise the Red Lantern', 'Chicago' and 'The English Patient') were chosen and analyzed. The color image of these photographs and scenes from the movies were divided by Pantone Solid Chips and categorized by color groups such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, neutral and metallic. The analysis results of the color images in the early 20th century showed that the red group was used a lot in both cultures and the orange group was more often used in the West. In regards to the yellow group, goldish yellow were commonly used in the West but pale yellow was preferred in the East. The green group more used In the West but the blue group appears more in the East. Also, there were differences in color combination, texture and technique which demonstrates different cultural color recognition and association. In the case of film color image, present color image was added to past color image. In the West, color was used as a tool for visualizing the state of characters' mind and the mood of movies' story but in the East color image was intended to make the character stand out by changing the value and chroma. By comparing the color image of clothes from the early 20th century and color image from film in the West and the East, it is possible to analyze the cultural symbolic image of color. This study is one of first trials to analyze the cultural differences in rotor images and their symbolic meaning. Thus, further studies should persue to find out the influence of culture on the rotor image in terms of specific quantity and quality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are to understand shapes, characteristics and source on the costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner. Baekche accepted to incense burner as one of developed culture through exchange with China. Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner includes mixed Thought of Confucian, Buddhism and Taoism from China. The five musicians showed in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are symbols that include Confucian Ohang-thought and peaceful reign based on musical combination and arrangement. So, musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner to pray to God for Happiness showed as a kind of Genii. As a results of analyzing costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are as follows; Upper garments which open in the center front have wide sleeves and tie up in high waist position. Under garments are long and wide skirts. Those costume styles of musicians were to follow spreaded costumes in the Continent at that time. In conclusion, costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner was showed to receive influence of costume style in China Whijinambukjo period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.146-149
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• 2000

This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.