• 복식
• /
• 제63권6호
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.458-475
• /
• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• 제55권5호
• /
• pp.481-490
• /
• 2017

This study considered the performing arts culture with a focus on Palgwanhoe Ceremony and various stunt-songs and dance (Baekhee-Gamoo) from the Goryeo period as well as examined the characteristics of performing arts' costume for Baekhee-Gamoo shown in Palgwanhoe Ceremony. The Baekhee-Gamoo shown in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony included acrobatics, traditions from comic dramas, puppet shows, mask plays, and four musical troupe flowers of youth in the Silla Dynasty, who excelled in beauty, bravery and the military arts (Sasun-Akboo). These were performed on a wagon ship with dragon, phoenix, and elephant animal masks (Yong-Bong-Sang-Mageosun). The characteristics of performing arts' costume for each performing arts are as follows. First, the general costume of the time was used for performing arts' costume. There were no special costumes for performing arts and it was just transformed or added for the efficiency of acrobatics. Second, the reality was improved by focusing on the historical research on costume suitable for characters and background of events in the performing arts to clearly deliver the purpose of the ceremony and quickly arouse audience's curiosity towards the performing arts' costume for the tradition of comic dramas and puppet shos in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony. Third, magical powers and symbolism were expressed through masks and performing arts' costumes. Palgwanhoe Ceremony aimed for magical powers that could protect weak human beings from threats and repel everything unfair while also symbolically showing the deified being through the performing arts' costume.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.61-70
• /
• 2004

The purposes of this study are to understand shapes, characteristics and source on the costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner. Baekche accepted to incense burner as one of developed culture through exchange with China. Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner includes mixed Thought of Confucian, Buddhism and Taoism from China. The five musicians showed in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are symbols that include Confucian Ohang-thought and peaceful reign based on musical combination and arrangement. So, musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner to pray to God for Happiness showed as a kind of Genii. As a results of analyzing costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are as follows; Upper garments which open in the center front have wide sleeves and tie up in high waist position. Under garments are long and wide skirts. Those costume styles of musicians were to follow spreaded costumes in the Continent at that time. In conclusion, costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner was showed to receive influence of costume style in China Whijinambukjo period.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.416-429
• /
• 2011

Most of precedent studies related to hip hop culture and fashion, which have been conducted till now were progressed under only theoretical background of hiphop, not the changed status of hiphop currently. Practical studies explaining the status of hip hop in popular culture, especially, the area of popular fashion are insufficient. Therefore, this study was conducted by focusing on cultural characteristics and musical characteristics by the stream of period, for which concept hip hop is accepted to people currently and which effect it makes on the area of fashion. Especially, the study was progressed by dividing periodical background into before and after the 2000s because there was the most noticeable change for the genre of hip hop in that period. Because of the appearance of 'Alternative hip hop' which is a sub-genre of hip hop music, hip hop music was changed to be more popular. Also, hip hop fashion also showed big changes. Hip hop fashion before 2000s had showed poor conditions, resistance, complex and alienation of them by their fashion. On the other hand, hip hop fashion after 2000s also showed popular characteristics because of high-level environment and social status. This study intended to understand and grasp hip hop as a kind of cultural situation coexisted by many-sided characteristics as well as redefine the changed concept and contents of new hip hop currently.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2013

Today's technology enables consumers to trade millions of dollars, conduct online banking, access entertainment, and do countless other activities at the click of a button. Online social networks (OSN) have become a cultural phenomenon that allows for individualistic consumerism. Consumers are increasingly utilizing OSN to share ideas, build communities, and contact fellow consumers who are similar to themselves. The relevance of online communities to the music is immense especially because musicians are now using social media to build global audiences. Not only is information about music and performance disseminated online, but musical commodities are sold and traded online. Online music communities allow consumers to elect and create new identities online through the purchase of subcultural commodities. Given the growing economic importance of online music communities it is important to get a holistic view of subcultural communities online. This study utilized content analysis of online music community websites using the Netnography methodology as developed by Kozinet for data collection to analyze consumers' purchasing and consumption behavior of subcultural commodities online as related to the formation of subcultural identities. Findings showed that subcultural items are predominantly purchased online, especially digital music, and there is a need for more custom craft items. The authors presented a new conceptual taxonomy of online subcultural consumer classifications based on online behavior patterns.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권2호
• /
• pp.135-148
• /
• 2001

The measuring rule Is to extimate a size of a physical solid and its standard was each part of body since the beginning of the world. Korean traditional measuring rule was "Kyul Boo Sok Pa Bob". It bases on wreth of farm land and means a handful and a bundle. It was the real Korean traditional measuring rule though it was a influence on Chinese rule. And in Koguryo it had an effect on Japanese′s. In Chosun dynasty the King Sejong imprived the measuring rule and regylations in such a way to meet the realistic needs of civil lives. He put in good order by a proportions of the musical scale. It was one of fille correct ways to preserve the measuring rule and based on "Kyul Beo Sok Pa Bob"too. So ill that time the measuring rule for Korean traditional costume′s length was 46.703cm. In king Soonjo it′s length was 49.254cm and in 1926 it changed 50cm by the metric system. In 1990s the standard length has a difference in regions, 30cm, 45cm, 50cm, 54.5cm, 55cm and 60cm. As a result of the actual object investigation by regional measuring rule for Korean traditional costume it can reduce an accidental error when use the standard measuring rule, 50cm.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.74-84
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.579-596
• /
• 2011

As a sport with artistic characteristics, figure skating draws upon important elements such as costumes, music, melody interpretation, and choreography. The combination of figure skating music and costume is an important influence on scoring, moreover, it forms some images and characteristics of the athlete. The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the correlation between figure skating music and costumes. The study mostly focuses on the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, such as the Winter World Figure Skating Championships, Four Continents Figure Skating Championships, Grand Prix of Figure Skating Final and gala shows of a single female and male and female pairs, ice dances of the medalists. The concepts and characteristics of figure skating music were examined collected the literature quotes internet sites, photos and video, clips through the homepage and internet sites. Focusing on the medalists of the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, following the analysis results of figure skating by genre of music, the differences among classical music, pop music, movie music, musical music, folk music have been classified, and according to the features of music genres, the differences of items, colors, details and accessories of clothing were brought out. Depending on the features of music genres, figure skating costumes have been changed of items, colors, materials, details and accessories. Thus, the close correlation between the story of figure skating music and atmosphere has been analyzed. This study contributes to improve the completion of programs which is completed through the development of figure skating costumes design that is regarded specially for the artistic value.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.145-156
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the stage costumes realized by digital clothing ; how realistic and accurate representation of empirical testing and in the consultation process for the production stage costumes, determine whether digital clothing has value that can be substituted for the stage costume. This study researched the stage costume manufacture, Isabel's costume of the musical 'Christmas Carol', process by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology : DC Suite. The results of this study is as following. They share many similarities between the stage costumes and digital clothing. It is possible that digital clothing takes a role as a substitute for stage costumes in the production process of the clothing samples. The clothing production system, including stage costumes, by digital clothing costs and lead time can be saved by innovative. Also the result can be saved without restriction, and this system can exert its effect in a very efficient way to incorporation of foreign producers and production system.