• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.207-223
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제38권
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• pp.29-63
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• 2015

This paper attempts to re-read Tennessee William's A Streetcar Named Desire from a non-Aristotelian perspective, particularly focusing on the audience performativity. In Chapter 6 of the Poetics, Aristotle says that tragedy has a final purpose or end (telos) and that is to inspire a catharsis (literally "purification") of pity and fear by means of representation and to give pleasure from experiencing their relief. However, a dramatic theoretician Augusto Boal argues that Aristotelian catharsis is not to get rid of pity and fear through their vehement discharge; rather, the basic function of catharsis is the purging of antisocial elements from the social body and the restoration of order because catharsis occurs when the spectator, terrified by the spectacle of the catastrophe, is purified of his "hamartia" which looks similar to the tragic flaw of the hero in the play. Thus, Boal asserts that Aristotle's coercive system of tragedy manipulates the emotions of the passive spectator. By contrast, in non-Aristotelian aesthetics, tragedy functions not as legitimation for a particular political configuration but as the performance of ethical acts-through which all the participants, including not only the actors but also the audience, communicate more actively about practical problems and actively work in order to make sense of themselves, others, and society. Here, the audience is required to restore and reinforce his/her capacity to think and to act; thus, an unquestioning, passive, indifferent attitude is not allowed. In these contexts, this paper explores how Tennessee William's A Streetcar Named Desire involves the audience in the responsibility for what occurs on the stage, in order to urge the audience's ethical judgements and responsible acts. This paper argues that what this play asks of us is not catharsis, the purging of pity and fear, but empathy toward the other's pain, beyond pity and fear, to carry out our responsibility of sharing in and caring for the other's suffering. That is to say that it will be an ethical way to "re-member" Blanche DuBoi-the iconic Williams victim "dis-membered" by traumatic memories and open wounds and is thus unable to complete her grieving and mourning-as one of us, not as the other. It will be the only way to remember right regarding her tragedy.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제25호
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• pp.253-289
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• 2012

다시래기는 전라남도 진도 지방에서 전승되는 상장례놀이로서, 죽음의 현장에서 새생명이 탄생한다는 생사불이(生死不二)의 메시지를 담고 있다. 더불어 많은 춤과 노래, 재담을 포함한 독특한 양식적 구조로 인해 현장 연희판에서 새로운 콘텐츠에 목말라 있던 공연문화 담당층의 주목을 끌기에 충분했다. 다시래기에 관한 많은 선행연구물들이 이들의 다시래기 재창조 작업에 커다란 도움을 주었다는 것은 불문가지의 사실이다. 그러나 이전의 연구들이 진도다시래기를 다각도로 다루어 적지 않은 성과를 이루어 내었지만 주로 학술적 접근을 통해 연행의 상징적 의미를 구명하는 데 치중한 것이 사실이다. 또한 공연요소들에 대한 접근도 대본, 노래가사, 재담, 행색, 소도구, 장단, 춤사위 등의 소개에 그쳐 정작 중요한 공연요소인 소리(창(唱))의 구체적 모습에 대한 연구가 없어 아쉬움으로 남아 있었다. 이에 본고는 다시래기 음악을 분석하고 그 음악의 성격과 특징을 악보와 함께 제시하여 공연현장의 연희실기자들에게 실질적인 도움을 주고자 하였다. 본고에서 음악분석 대상으로 삼은 소리는 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이에 나오는 모든 소리, 그리고 연희패의 입장 시에 부르는 상여소리로 한정하였다. 다시래기 다섯 절차 중 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이, 상여소리가 가장 많이 공연되기 때문이다. 수많은 공연 자료가 있지만 분석의 텍스트로는 E&E미디어에서 출반된 음반인 "진도다시래기"를 택하였다. 이는 이 음원의 녹음상태가 우수하며 무엇보다 본고에서 제시된 악보를 학습 자료로 삼아 다시래기 소리를 익히고자 하는 연희실기자들이 음원 구득과 그 활용을 용이하게 할 수 있다는 판단에서이다. 음악분석 결과, 진도다시래기에서 불리는 소리들은 대부분 꺾는 음이 있는 '미'음계를 사용한 전형적인 육자배기토리로 짜여 있었다. 그리고 '솔'음계의 남부경토리는 극히 일부분에 짧게 나타나며, 음악적 완결성은 갖추지 못하고 있는 것도 알 수 있었다. 또한 같은 상장례음악임에도 씻김굿과의 음악적 친연성은 거의 발견되지 않는데, 이는 망자를 달래서 천도하는 씻김굿과 산 자의 삶을 북돋우는 다시래기의 성격과 기능이 다른 데서 비롯된 음악적 특징이라고 생각된다. 한편 다시래기 소리 전반에 판소리 음악어법적 특징들이 보이는데, 이는 다시래기의 복원과 전승에 있어서 주도적 역할을 한 예능보유자의 과거 창극단 활동이력과 무관하지 않다고 여겨진다. 다시래기 예능 담당자의 이러한 활동이력은 다시래기 원형의 변질을 초래한 원인이 되기도 하였지만, 한편으로는 다시래기의 공연요소를 더욱 풍부하게 하여 공연현장에서 콘텐츠로 활용될 수 있는 연희적 기반을 확장시킨 결과로도 나타났다. 본고의 작업이 다시래기를 원형 삼아 죽음의 상실을 극복하고 삶의 활력을 지켜낼 미래의 진지한 현장예술가들에게 의미 있게 활용되기를 기대한다.

• 여성학논집
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.73-109
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• 2010

오늘날 지구화된 문화 환경 속에서 점점 강조되는 문화 다원주의는 지역 정체성을 중요한 문화교류의 지표로 삼는가 하면, 지역 정체성 자체를 표준화된 국제적 관점에 끼워 맞추라고 강요함으로써 모든 지역을 동질적인 공간으로 변형시키는 결과를 낳기도 한다. 본 연구는 이러한 맥락 속에서 포스트식민 분단 한국의 정치경제, 사회문화가 가장 특징적으로 새겨져 있는 '동두천'과 관련된 두 개의 아트 프로젝트, <아메리칸 앨리>(김동령)와 (정은영)를 분석한다. 이 프로젝트들은 '지역 특수성에 기반을 둔 예술실천'으로서 지구화 시대 사라지는 지역의 역사성을 지켜낸다는 것은 무엇인지, 역사적 기억으로서의 예술실천은 어떤 모습으로 가능한지, 무엇보다 특정 장소가 극단적인 젠더 이데올로기에 침윤되어 있을 때 이 장소를 여성주의적으로 재현하는 것은 어떻게 가능한지 등을 성찰한다. 동두천은 해방 이후부터 현재에 이르기까지 한국이라는 국민국가 내부의 어떤 섬, 혹은 '외부'로서 존재해왔으며, 이것은 현재 동두천 클럽에서 일하는 여성들이 대부분 구 러시아 지역과 필리핀 등지에서 온 이주여성들이라는 점에서 더욱 다중적이고 지구적인 성격을 띤다. 포스트식민/여성주의적 관점을 견지하는 <아메리칸 앨리>와 는 지나치게 '두터운' 정체성을 가진 동두천이라는 지역/장소와 그 정체성의 한가운데에 있는 클럽여성들을 이제까지의 이데올로기적 재현을 거슬러 인정과 소통이 가능한 방식으로 '가시화'시키고자 시도한다.