• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.186-193
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• 2005

천연염료로서 금계국의 이용가능성과 금계국 식물체에서 추출한 염료를 이용한 천연염색시 천연매염제 처리농도, 매염방법 및 종류에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하였다. 금계국 추출물로 견직물을 염색한 결과 표면색상은 무매염시 Y계열로 나타났으며, 매염처리시는 Y 및 YR 계열로 나타나 천연 염료로서의 이용 가능성이 충분했다. 동백나무 회즙, 굴껄질 회즙, 노린재 나무 회즙을 $10\%,\;20\%,\;30\%$ 농도로 매염처리 한 후 견직물의 염색성을 조사한 결과 농도에 따른 표면색상 변화는 거의 없었으나 염착농도는 $20\%$에서 가장 좋았다. 견직물의 표면색은 매염처리 방법에는 큰 영향을 받지 않았으나 염착농도는 후매염, 선매염, 동시매염 처리구 순으로 높게 나타났다. 금계국 추출물로 천연염색한 견직물에 29종의 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 견직물의 표면색은 동백나무와 사스레피나무 회즙 매염처리구에서만 YR계열을 나타냈고, 그외 처리구에서는 Y계열로 나타났다. 또 천연매염제를 처리한 결과 염착농도는 무매염 처리구에 비해 월등히 높아져 천연매염제로서도 매염효과를 충분히 낼 수 있음을 확인되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.781-791
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• 2004

Currently, as mordants, heavy metals are being used in dyeing process in order to improve dye uptake and dye fastness. These chemicals, however, are mostly harmful to human body and the environment along with the pollution by effluent. Traditionally, rice straw ash solution, lime, etc. have been used as mordants in order to improve the effects on dye uptake and color fastness of dyestuffs. The study of natural mordants would, therefore, be vital to the development and succession of our traditional dyeing methods. In this study, as a preliminary step toward the use of rice straw ash solution for the nautral dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan, several aluminum compounds were employed as mordants. When the purified aluminum compounds were used, on the basis of unmordanted cotton fabric, the K/S values of the pre-mordanted and simultaneously mordanted fabrics increased by 2 or 3 times, while those of the post-mordanted fabrics decreased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1134-1143
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate surface color change and effects of mordants on the K/S values of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Lac extract, according to the mordanting methods and conditions such as temperature, concentration and time of the mordanting bath. The results were as follow; 1 K/S values of the silk and wool fabrics according to the temperature of the mordanting bath were shown a slight decline beyond 40$^{\circ}C$. 2. Surface color of the silk changed from red to reddish purple and that of the wool showed red tone when mordanted with Aluminum postassium sulfate, Copper acetate and Copper (II) sulfate regardless of the mordanting conditions. 3. The light and dry cleaning fastness of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Lac extract according to the mordanting methods were very good.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.838-843
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• 2015

In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.35-41
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with onion shell were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of onion shell, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordants and mordanting methods or color change and dye uptakes were investigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed and mordanted fabric were evaluated. The color fastness was improved when Fe mordant was added.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.34-42
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• 2000

The colorante from black tea infusion were applied to cotton fabric. Dyeing properties were investigated in terms of dye uptakes at various dyeing conditions and the effect of mordants on color change and colorfastness. Cotton showed low affinity to black tea colorants. Effects of mordants on dye uptake was not significant except Sn. Irrespective of mordant type, color of cotton dyed with black tea colorants was brownish and colorfastness was generally good. In order to improve dye uptake, cotton was cationized by treating with Cationon UK(tertiary ammonium salt) and chitosan. Dye uptake of cotton was remarkably increased by cationizing. Cationon UK was more effective than chitosan.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.115-124
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• 2011

This study provides an eco-friendly dyeing processing for chitosan fiber using Oenothera odorata jacquin as a dye. The effects of chemical mordants (Al, Cu, Fe) and natural mordant (Chestnut shell) on the color change for dyed chitosan fibers were measured by K/S values, L, $a^*$, $b^*$, H, V, C values, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows. Dyeing conditions of Oenothera odorata jacquin on chitosan fibers were optimized to $70^{\circ}C$, 30 minutes and 200% on weight of fabric (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of aluminium (Al), copper (Cu) and iron (Fe) of chitosan fibers was optimized to 3% (o.w.f.) and 1% (o.w.f.), respectively. The post-mordant concentration of chemicals, such as Al, Cu and Fe, on chitosan was determined to 1% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by chemical mordants was measured to be reddish & yellow. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell of chitosan was optimized to 70% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell on chitosan was determined to be 50% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by Chestnut shell mordant was measured to be reddish & yellow. The wet cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was improved by a pre-mordant that used chemical mordants. In the case of the Chestnut shell mordant, the wet cleaning fastness was improved by a post-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was excellent regardless of mordants and mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of the chitosan fiber was shown at 99.9% and its excellent qualities remained after the dyeing and mordant processing.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.114-124
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• 2014

This research was carried out to find the mordant effects by Tara and Myrobalan as natural tannins on the cow leather dyed with Lac powder. The cow leathers were treated with Tara, Myrobalan, Al, Cu, and Fe mordants by changing treatment orders. It was examined for K/S value, surface color changes, and color difference. The K/S value generally has higher Myrobalan than Tara, and pre-mordant than post-mordanted condition. Cu is the strongest among the three mordants. As a results of the treatment order, the K/S value is higer in pre-tannin-mordant agent than in pre-mordant agent-tannin. In the post mordant, K/S value is higher in mordant agent-tannin than in tannin-mordant agent. The color difference and color factors such as H, V and C were various according to the mordant agents, treatment orders and mordant methods; and surface colors of dyed cow leathers were R and RP. It was difficult to find some significant means of mordant orders.