• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.85-92
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• 2007

This study focused on bean-juice treatment method which have dyeing property to indigo, yellow soil, sappan wood, cochineal and also on the possibility of applying to mordanting. This is different from the active mordanting using chemicals. Natural mordants with development of dyeing are not harmful, also are the medicines for disease. Limestone and ash neutralize the acidic soil. bean-juice protein adhere to cellulose surface and change the physical properties of protein so that coloring of dye is better than before and film non-soluble in water is made. Therefore the color made from bean-juice process lasts after washing. This study try to show one of the ways to improve the current method using the heavy metal which can have bad effects for environment and human being. Bean-juice(raw bean, heated bean) treatment method can be the way to fix the natural dyeing problem of bad dyeing. Bean-juice had been treated under various condition with pre-treatment, post-treatment and raw bean, heated bean. Following results are obtained in this study. In the case of Indigo dyeing, pre-treatment of heated bean shows the biggest difference of color. In the case of yellow soil dyeing, pre-treatment of raw bean-juice shows the biggest gap of color. Pre-treatment of heated bean in sappan wood dyeing case and post-treatment of raw bean show bigger color difference than pre-treatment of raw bean. In cochineal dyeing, raw bean pre-treatment shows the biggest color difference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.363-369
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• 1999

Artemisia princeps was used for the natural dye stuff extraction and concentration to produce the condensed dye liquid. Using this liquid, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed. And then the K/S value, color difference were measured in order to determine the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The K/S value of silk were much higher than those of cotton. In terms of the silk fabric, the premordanting method was most efficient of the mordanting method. The various surface colors on the dyed fabric were resulted according to used mordants and mordanting methods. The dye fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Among them, Cr-mordant improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on both of mordant treated silk and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2000

Saururus-chinensis was used for the natural due stuff extraction and concentration to produce the condensed dye liquid. Using this liquid, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed. And then the K/S value, color difference were measured in order to determine the dye ability and the antimicrobial activity. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton. In terms of the silk fabric, the Al, Cr-premordanting and Fe, Cu-simmordanting method was most efficient of the mordanting method. The various suface colors on the dyed fabric were resulted according to used mordants and mordanting methods. The dye fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Among them, Al-mordant improved more than 1 level. The Cu, Fe-mordants showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on both of mordant treat silk and cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2016

Charcoal dyed fabrics have been widely used in home textiles and functional clothing due to their anti-statics, antibacterial, deodorization, far infrared emitting and anion releasing. Soybean fiber were regenerated from soybean. Soybean fiber have biodegradable, microbiocidal, non-allergic, and anti-ageing properties. The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing characteristics of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants. Soybean fabrics were dyed with charcoal solution according to concentration of charcoal, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. To improve washing fastness and investigate mordanting condition, soybean fabric and dyed soybean fabric with charcoal were mordanted by mordanting agents such as $CH_3COOH$(acetic acid), NaCl(sodium chloride) and $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_2O$(Aluminium Potassium Sulfate). Dyeability and color characteristics of charcoal dyed soybean fabric were obtained by computer color matching and SEM morphology analysis. Particle size of charcoal and color fastness were also investigated. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was $1.39{\mu}m$. The dyeability of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants was increased gradually with increasing concentration of charcoal dyeing solution and saturated at about 8%(o.w.b.). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were $90{\sim}105^{\circ}C$ and 60~90 minutes respectively. The overall wash fastness at dyeing concentration 2~4%(o.w.b.) and 6~10%(o.w.b.) were 4 degree and 3-4 degree respectively. The fastness to washing according to mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 4 degree in all conditions. On the other hand, the staining of adjacent fabrics, i.e. PET, Acryl, Wool, Acetate, Nylon and Cotton was found to be of grade 4 or 4-5 in all conditions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1030-1038
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at 60℃ and 60min. Crabyon, composite fiber of Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose, is manufactured by uniformly blending Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose viscose and extruding the blended viscose into spin-bath. Cotton towels with crabyon fiber dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. Crabyon fiber contained cotton towels dyed using gallnut were pre of post-mordanted using Al, Cu, and Fe. The dyeability(K/S) and color characteristics(L^*, a^*, b^*, C, and h(color angle)) of dyed crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were measured by computer color matching machine and photographs. The crabyon fiber composition of cotton towels was conformed by amide peak(-CONH-) of chitin or chitosan of FT-IR spectroscopy. The results obtained were as follows; The amide peak of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels appeared at about 1652 cm⁻¹. The dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towel was increased gradually with increasing concentration of gallnut dyeing solution and saturated at about 150%(o.w.f). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 90~100℃ and 80minutes expectively. The crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were dyed reddish yellow by non, Al, and Cu mordanting, reddish blue by Fe mordanting, respectively. The fastness to washing according to concentration of gallnut in and mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 3~4 degree in all conditions.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.99-105
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• 2002

This study was to investigate the natural dyeing materials in domestic, trials to detect new Inula Britannica. An appropriate dyeing condition ;was bath ratio 1:20, 50% (o.w.f.)conc., $80^{\circ}C$, 50min. The K/S values of silk fabric was the most efficient for the pre-mordanting method. The value of dyed fabric was mostly dark, for the mordanting, the chroma was best clear when using the Cr-mordant, color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The antimicrobiality of Inula Britannica itself appeared as a 6mm halo zone, dyed fabric was excellent with result of over 90% in mordant. In the case of dye fastness, the drycleaning and wet cleaning fastness was excellent, rubbing and perspiration fastness was improved, and light fastness was over level 2.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.113-117
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• 2000

The extracts drawn out from Sophora japonica by methanol was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk was dyed, 400% conc. of dyeing material, $80^{\circ}C$ temperature of dyeing, 30 min time of dyeing. The K/S value of silk fabric was the most efficient for the simmordanting method. On the other hand, the amount of absorbed mordant the Cu-mordant was largest mordants. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was dark. for the mordanting, color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. Lightfastness of the color fastness was best in Cu-mordant. The Fe-, Cu- mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity.