• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.136-144
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate various phenomena quantitatively occurring during the course of changing dyeing conditions of cotton and silk fibers in natural dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan. Paying attention to the fact that the color may be varied according to the extraction conditions of dyestuffs in Caesalpinia sappan dyeing, the color changes were investigated after dyeing using dyestuffs extracted at elevated temperature and dyestuffs extracted at room temperature. According to the extraction methods, the degree of color development for the category of red color and the category of yellow color has changed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.8-17
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of turmeric was studied. In this study, the colorants of turmeric were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics was dyed with aqueous extract of turmeric and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(turmeric) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably became increased when the crosslinked chitosan concentration was higher. Dyeability of turmeric was improved on chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabric rather than only cotton fabric, while the saturated dyeing time was 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The hue value indicated greenish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was almost the same.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.133-144
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the absorbance of the Shikonin, one of the major purple pigments, and the stability against the effect of light, $O_2$, and temperature. The effect of mordant and mordanting condition to color and color-fastness is compared and analysed through the color-fastness-test, color-difference value-test, and IR-test. The results were as follows; 1. The absorbance of Shikonin was examinated through 6 kinds of solutions and distilled water. Shikonin was absorbed by solutions rather easily than distilled water. 2. The light effect to Shikonin indicated that the solution with the light was more stable than that without it. 3. The effect of $O_2$ to Shikonin showed that the solution with the $O_2$ was more stable that without it $O_2$. 4. Shikonin -methyl alcohol solution was stable in $25^{\circ}C$. It was unstable in $60^{\circ}C$ and $100^{\circ}C$ with lowered absorbance and changed colors. 5. Color-fastness test to silk and cotton indicated washing color-fastness and perspiration color-fastness was more than 3 grade. But the light color-fastness and crocking color-fastness was low. 6. The comparison between non -colored sample and colored-sample showed the latter was better in fastness. 7. Mordant as $Alk(SO_4)_2{\cdot}24H_2O$ and $AlCl_3{\cdot}6H_2O$ was better than anything else in fastness. 8. Color-difference value-test indicated that the mordant which had the jade green color, the original purple pigment color, was the best in use. 9. The best way to extract the original purple pigment color was in $25^{\circ}C$, because extracted dyeing solution by Soxhlet had the bluish color.