• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.733-741
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• 2006

This study was to investigate categories of valuation and make the standard on developing valuation of natural dyes by Delphi method. The three-round Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art field.'Dyeability property' meant levelling, adsorption, color diversity with mordant, color stability, 'marketability', possibility of mass production, economical efficiency, functionality, demand and supply of natural dyes, 'color', yield, beautiful color, value of color and 'color fastness', washing, perspiration and light fastness. Indigo, persimmon, cochineal, safflower and onion in dyeability property were evaluated highly, functional natural dyes in marketability, red and purple color ones except indigo in color and ones containing tannin in color fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

The aim of study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial and antifungal activity of silk fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to different mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, silk fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60%(owf), the mordant was 3%(owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was $60~60^\circ{C}$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color, K/S values and durability of dye. The skin microorganisms used in this study was S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentatrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were added, K/S value of silk dyed was not improved much and surface color was 2.2Y to 8.8Y in H(hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to raddish yellow 2. The color fastness tests to light, perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and stain fabric washing show 4~5th degree which were valuated excellent. The color fastness to fade washing was improved to 3~4th degree by addition of $K_2CrO_7$ mordants. 3. Antibacterial activity of silk dyed using no-mordant as well as mordants was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S.epidermidis and P.acnes, but showed poor antibacterial activities on P.aeruginosa and E.coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antifungal activity of silk dyed with ethanol extracts was good on A.niger, C.candida and T.mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 gous in silk dyed mordanting with $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.391-400
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficacy of safflower yellow colorant as a natural dye for hair coloring. The dyeing properties of safflower yellow colorant on hair were explored to obtain optimum conditions. Also, the effect of mordant was studied in terms of dye uptake, colorfastness, and hair damage to better understand the characteristics of the colorant. Tensile strength measurement and SEM analysis were carried out for investigating hair damage to light exposure and washing. On the basis of obtained results considering possible hair damage, optimum dyeing conditions were set 100%(o.w.h.) colorant concentration, pH 5, $40^{\circ}C$, and 20min. Dye uptake was improved more effectively by repeated dyeing rather than by increasing concentration. Pre-mordanting method improved dye uptake slightly, irrespective of mordant type. The safflower yellow colorant produced Y colors on hair. Cu and Fe mordants improved washing and light fastness slightly. Better strength retention was obtained with the mordanted-dyed hair than the unmordanted-dyed hair after light irradiation for 40 hours and 10 repeated washing. The hair was more damaged by light exposure than by washing. It was concluded that the safflower yellow colorant can be used as a natural semi-permanent hair dye producing Y color without mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.464-472
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial activity of cotton fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to various mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, cotton fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60% (owf, the mordant was 3% (owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was 60~7$0^{\circ}C$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min.. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color and color fastness. The skin microorganism was evaluated on S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E. coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentagrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were treated, surface color was 3.3Y to 0.1 GY in H (hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to yellow 2. The color fastness to perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and washing stain fabric showed 4~5 degree. The color fastness to light was improved to 4 degree by treatment of mordants. The color fastness to washing was 2 degree which was somewhat poor. 3. Cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis and p. antis. But that showed poor antibacterial activities on P. aeruginosa and E. coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics dyed didn't be improved by treatment of mordant 5. Antifungal activity of cotton dyed with ethanol extracts was excellent on T. mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 hours in cotton dyed mordanting with SnCl$_2$.$_2$$H_2O$.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.12 s.202
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• pp.69-76
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with extract of Lotus leaf princeps. The experimental items were classified into mordanting treatments, fabric components and kind of mordants. The experimental test was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali) , light fastness, color difference by C.C.M(computer color matching) system and K/S test. The summarized findings resulting from the experiment and investigation are as follows: In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabrics, co-mordanting treatment method and protein fabric (silk) were the most effective. Especially, Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none-mordanting. In colorfastness on the mordants, perspiration and laundering fastness showed high grade (4-5) but grades of perspiration(2-3/4) and light fastness(1-3) were low.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.118-122
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• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2003

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Purple-Fleshed Sweet Potato (PSP) was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and the color difference (${\Delta}E^*$) was increased with increasing the amount of PSP in extraction. The proper temperature and time for the extracting of colorant with PSP were $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes. The optimum temperature, time and pH for the dyeing of silk with extracted PSP were $60^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 4 respectively. In various mordanted methods, the color difference values of post-mordanted silk fabric were higher than those of pre- and simultaneous-mordanted method. And the wide range of colors( GY, Y, YR, R, RP) were obtained according to various mordants, mordanting methods and mordant concentrations. Light colorfastness of the mordanted silk fabric was improved. Laundering colorfastness, dry cleaning colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were shown to be good.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.