• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.216-224
• /
• 2009

This study was accomplished to examine the dyeing property and functionality of both cotton and silk fabrics dyed with clove extract. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of dyeing property, antibiosis, and sun protection effectiveness for a clove. The study method used in this study was the experimental research to extract dyestuffs from a clove, to treat dyestuffs with a mordant, and then to measure dyeing colorfastness, antibiosis, and sun protection for dyed fabrics. As a result of the test for dyeing colorfastness, in the case of colorfastness to laundry, the degree of discoloration showed grade $1\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to perspiration for both cotton and silk fabrics dyed showed grade $1\sim2$ to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to sunlight showed grade 2 to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to rubbing showed grade $3\sim4$ to $4\sim5$. In the colorfastness to dry cleaning, the degree of discoloration showed grade $3\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. As a result of the antibiosis test, for the Staphylococcus aureus, both cotton and silk showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry, and for the Escherichia coli, cotton fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% only after one time laundry, but silk fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry. As a result of the test for sun protection effectiveness, dyed silk fabrics showed the result more excellent than dyed cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
• /
• 제37권4호
• /
• pp.406-413
• /
• 2009

전통 오방색 중 흑색 재현을 위하여 오배자, 신나무 잎, 감즙, 밤껍질, 묵즙 등을 이용하여 한지에 천연염색을 실시하였다. 흑색 염색을 위해 염료별 단독염색 및 복합염색을 행하였고, 매염제 및 염색순서를 달리하여 색상의 발현 특성을 조사하였다. 아울러 염료의 농도(o.w.f) 변화에 따른 염색 특성을 조사하여 흑색 발현을 위한 최적 염색조건을 구명하였다. 한지의 흑색 천연염색 발현에 있어 오배자가 가장 중요한 염료 물질로 나타났으며, 복합염색의 경우 오배자 염색 $\rightarrow$ 초산구리 매염 $\rightarrow$ 신나무 잎 염색 $\rightarrow$ 철 매염의 순서가 가장 우수한 흑색염색 특성을 나타냈다.

• 복식
• /
• 제4권
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.