• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.314-326
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to analyze the effects of Dansam and Sappan wood extract to perform combination dyeing on silk fabrics, with respect to color changes, fastness (washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, rubbing and light fastness), and functionality (antibacterial activity and deodorization). Combination dyeing was performed by first combining Dansam with Sappan wood, then Sappan wood with Dansam, in these orders. Given the changes in the combination ratio, pre-mordant treatment was performed. Looking at the surface colors of each dye, Dansam generally produces YR color series, while Sappan wood produces YR, R, and RP color series. The effects of changing the order in which combination dying was performed on the surface colors were as follows. First, combination dyeing (A) was performed by using Dansam before Sappan wood, to produce YR and R color series. Then combination dyeing (B) was performed by using Sappan wood before Dansam, to produce YR, R, and RP color series. By visual inspections, more similar color changes of the combination dyeing were noticed with the post-dyeing material rather than the pre-dyeing material. Therefore, it was presumably confirmed that surface color changes of combination dyeing were greatly influenced by the post-dyeing color. Individual dyeing tests for fastness showed that Dansam was comparatively superior to Sappan wood, which demonstrated lower fastness to washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, and light, relatively. The fastness of combination dyed samples was shown middle, but similar fastness to the post-dye material, The fastness of (B) method was higher than (A) method in the washing and light fastness. This confirms that color fastness from combination dyeing was considerably influenced by the post-dye material. It was found that all dyed samples had a very high bacterial reduction rate of 99.9% and high deodorization rate of 95%.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.8-14
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• 2006

The pigment extraction of Opuntia ficus-indica has been conducted to develop useful natural dyes in place of synthetic dyes which are suspected to bring serious environmental pollutions. The dyeing ability on wool fabric by addition of ascorbic acid and several mordants were investigated by means of color measurement. In addition, the fastness of washing, perspiration, rubbing, light, dry cleaning, effect on bacterial reduction and UV-B protection were also investigated. From these investigation, it is suggested that the pigment extracted from Opuntia ficus-indica can be used as a source of natural dyes and the obtained result are as follows. 1. Maximum absorption band (${\lambda}max$) of Opuntia ficus-indica extract is 533nm. 2. The wool fabric dyed with Opuntia ficus-indica extract has stable color by the addition of ascorbic acid and is achieved with addition of 0.1% ascorbic acid, 0.5% several mordant, and three repeated dying at $50^{\circ}C$ for 1.5hr. 3. The wash fastness of the dyed wool fabric when it is washed with neutral detergent is more effective than alkaline detergent. The dry cleaning fastness of the dyed wool fabric is more excellent. In addition, the perspiration fastness of the dyed wool fabric is increased by mordanting method. And than the rubbing fastness of the dyed wool fabric is showed excellent under dryness and wetness. Light fastness of the dyed wool fabric, however is showed inferiority. 4. The wool fabric dyed with Opuntia ficus-indica extract is showed effective bacterial reduction and UV-B protection is increased remarkably.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1129-1140
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• 2009

The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at $100^{\circ}C$, and with ethanol extract at $90^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2009

This study was accomplished to examine the dyeing property and functionality of both cotton and silk fabrics dyed with clove extract. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of dyeing property, antibiosis, and sun protection effectiveness for a clove. The study method used in this study was the experimental research to extract dyestuffs from a clove, to treat dyestuffs with a mordant, and then to measure dyeing colorfastness, antibiosis, and sun protection for dyed fabrics. As a result of the test for dyeing colorfastness, in the case of colorfastness to laundry, the degree of discoloration showed grade $1\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to perspiration for both cotton and silk fabrics dyed showed grade $1\sim2$ to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to sunlight showed grade 2 to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to rubbing showed grade $3\sim4$ to $4\sim5$. In the colorfastness to dry cleaning, the degree of discoloration showed grade $3\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. As a result of the antibiosis test, for the Staphylococcus aureus, both cotton and silk showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry, and for the Escherichia coli, cotton fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% only after one time laundry, but silk fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry. As a result of the test for sun protection effectiveness, dyed silk fabrics showed the result more excellent than dyed cotton fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.371-381
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• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.406-413
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• 2009

This study was carried out to investigate the natural dyeing characteristics of Korean traditional hand-made paper (Hanji). The Hanji was dyed black with extractive of gallnut (Rbusjavanica L), leaves of Amur maple (Acer ginnala), nutshell of chestnut (Castania crenata), and persimmon juice and Chinese ink. And moreover, the Hanji was dyed not only using single and combination of dyestuff but also changing mordants and mordanting procedure. And we estimated the relationship between dyeing characteristics and dyestuff concentration (o.w.f.). The gallnut was the most principal material dyeing black. The procedure of mordanting from copper acetate to Iron (II) chloride and dyeing from gallnut to Amur maple dyestuffs were the best dyeing method for the Hanji to black. The K/S value of dyed Hanji increased with increasing concentration of dyestuff.