• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.599-611
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop the most appropriate garment patterns for dog. This study is analyzed the body structures and bodily movements of different types of dogs and constructed garment patterns that are appropriate for each category: the basic pattern for dogs with oval-shaped chests; and the modified pattern for the ones with barrel-shaped chests. Analyzing some of the existing patterns in the market as well as studying the size chart of one of the dog apparel manufacturers, who participated in the Fashion Week for the very first time, were undertaken in order to understand the bodily figures and movements of dogs. Furthermore, based the previous studies and relevant information available regarding some of the most popular dogs in four selected countries: (names of the selected countries), dogs were broadly categorized into three groups according to the shape of their chests: Oval, Barrel, and Flat-sided. Later, two types of pattern were created and then constructed for fitting: the basic pattern for oval-shaped chest; and the modified pattern for barrel-shaped chest. As a result, the two patterns turned out to be most suitable for pet dogs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.66-76
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• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2012

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.115-126
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• 2008

The construction of an athlete's tight-fitting garments is very important to the wearer in terms of athletic performance. Therefore pattern development of tight-fitting garments must allow for the full range of human movement and postures. In this study the relationship between the construction of a skate pants pattern and clothing fitting was explored with the aim of improving the comfort of the clothing. The four male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on four consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Results showed differences in the front-rise length and back-rise length between basic pants(A) and modified pants(B,C,D) were -5.16cm and +5.64cm. Comparing the basic pants pattern(A) with modified pants pattern(B), the latter was superior to basic pants(A) in terms of pressure sensation and closeness of fit, but there was no significant difference. Among the four tight-fitting skate pants, A and B pants were superior to the others in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip sections. In the case of the skate pants, the number of cutting lines in the pattern had an influence on clothing comfort. A minimum cutting line for tight skate pants was better than a maximum cutting line in terms of clothing comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1993.10a
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• pp.233-238
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• 1993

In this paper, two diagnosis algorithms using the simple fuzzy, cognitive map (FCM) that is an useful qualitative model are proposed. The first basic algorithm is considered as a simple transition of Shiozaki's signed directed graph approach to FCM framework. And the second one is an extended version of the basic algorithm. In the extension, three important concepts, modified temporal associative memory (TAM) recall, temporal pattern matching algorithm and hierarchical decomposition are adopted. As the resultant diagnosis scheme takes short computation time, it can be used for on-line fault diagnosis of large scale and complex processes that conventional diagnosis methods cannot be applied. The diagnosis system can be trained by the basic algorithm and generates FCM model for every experienced process fault. In on-line application, the self-generated fault model FCM generates predicted pattern sequences, which are compared with observed pattern sequences to declare the origin of fault. In practical case, observed pattern sequences depend on transport time. So if predicted pattern sequences are different from observed ones, the time weighted FCM with transport delay can be used to generate predicted ones. The fault diagnosis procedure can be completed during the actual propagation since pattern sequences of tvo different faults do not coincide in general.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 1994

Nowadays computer technology is being applied in various areas of apparel design. In particular, since the task of pattern making is to be performed by a set of predefined drawing rules, the effect of computer application in pattern making will be significant, There have been a large number of studies on pattern making program. For instance, the previous studies have developed computer programs for pattern making of women's wear, men's wear, children's wear, Han-Bok, etc. Most of them have focused on the development of computer program for a particular kind of apparel only and, however, have disregarded the feasibility of developing a multi-purposed computer program so that is just can be modified to adopt for various styles. For example, by widening the hem-wide of the basic H-Line skirt and then connecting its waist line and widened hem-wide, we can draw the A-Line skirt. Therefore, we have developed a program which can make a pattern for the basic skirt and can mae, with a slight change of he program, other patterns for various style as well. The objective of this paper is to identify and organize modules which will be used for developing a general pattern making computer system. This general pattern making system is a computer program by which we can draw a variety of apparel styles. This system is restricted to skirt pattern making only. there presentation scheme used in organizing these modules is an AND-OR tree, the one being often used in representing a complex problem in artificial intelligence domain.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.