• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.124-131
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• 2011

Modernity is commonly defined as a reflection of the features of modern society based on the historical experience of the West. As such, modernity includes involvement with political, economic, and social changes, a changing world-view, and changing trends in equality, gender roles, a desire for "the new," consumption, distribution based on mass production, and rational reform in fashion and dress. First and foremost, however, modernity in costume has been driven by the functional requirements of industrial capitalism. But while modernity has popularly been regarded as some sort of universal standard, in fact the West and the other societies have vastly different, unique, and particular experiences with their own respective histories of modernization. For this reason, cultural changes in the modernization process should be-indeed, must be-analyzed in the context of a country's own unique historical and cultural circumstances, rather than through the prism or strict adaptation of generalized Western concepts of modernization. Moreover, a "periodization" of the modernization of fashion and dress can be established by examining the characteristics of modernity in costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.162-178
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to find aesthetic characteristics of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes in Modernization that happened in Korea and Japan during the late 19th century and the 20th century. The meaning of modernity has indefinite and comprehensive aspects, and the essence of modernity is found in searching for new changes. Modernization is the process of realizing modernity, and costume modernization can be discussed from the viewpoint of seeking new changes, functionality and popularization of costume. As Korean and Japanese costumes went through modernization, western costume became daily clothes of both two countries. The modernization of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes were achieved in the two directions. First, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes changed to search for functionality modeled of western costume. Korean costume went through dress reform movement and were generally simplified. Japanese costume made a change of wearing mode and introduced new garment like 'Hakama'. Second, the new style of traditional costume appeared. In Korea, 'Saenghwal Hanbox' was shown in the late 20c and in Japan, The reproduced dress(更生服)' and The women's standard dress(婦人標準服)' were shown in the late 1930's and the early 1940's. These kinds of new garment style were the more active compromise between the East and the West.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1415-1428
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• 2010

Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.117-127
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• 2001

In the 1980's discuss in the postmodernism and at the 1990's that is globalization. Globalization is the compression of time and space. That is the products of modernism and postmodernism. Global trends are the multiculturalism, localism, tribuism, etc. These trends have a important effect modern fashion. 20th fashion have a modernity -variation, functionalism and popularity, postmodernity-uncertainty, multiculturalism, post structuralism, etc. If Korean fashion have the globality, open to the world other country and culture, deep study of that, and view point of intercultureity. This Study Suggest to achieve globalize of Korean costume. 1. Plon up base on the scholastic study of giobalization. 2. Promote global project of Korean collection. 3. Collect of ethnic, culture, information of fashion America, Europe, etc. and make high up our a sense of disorimination. 4. Manifold studing abroad 5. Strergthening of globalization and ethnic curriculum on Educational course

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.113-126
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• 2007

Since the ancient times, black has been the most valuable color. Also, it has played a more important role in a history of fashion than other colors. In general, black was regarded as a color of negative images. However, as people have recognized the aesthetic value of black color, they have expressed unique and various images of black through the medium of clothes. This studies on images of black dress for woman was based on reference to literatures and valid investigations. The images toward black clothing are categorized by study participants' perceptions according to age, marital status and education. The result was as followed. Dignity and modernity were the most frequently cited image of black dress among women followed by feminine, sorrow, sensuality, and abstinence. Age significantly affected the recognition of black dress images. Woman showed significant difference in recognizing dignity, modernity, sensuality, and sorrow in black dress according to their age. Woman more strongly recognize dignity and modernity in black dress when they are younger, while increasingly recognizing abstinence and sensuality in black dress as they become older. Marital status significantly affected woman's recognition of black dress. They showed meaningful difference in recognizing dignity, modernity, and abstinence in black color. In sum, single women recognized more easily dignity and modernity in black dress and less easily abstinence than married women. Women also showed the trend with relation to education level. In general, as women got higher education, they also increasingly recognized dignity and modernity in black dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.165-175
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• 2011

In this study, document research on Jogakbo and Tosi were carried out and textile designs were developed by applying Jogakbo and Tosi together for motives. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows; First, the title of textile design was decided to "innocence of childhood" and the concepts are "sim ple heart ed, pure heart, sweet", in order to develop textile design for the young generation Second, Motives were chosen Jogakbo and Tosi to reflect Korean traditionality and identity and textile designs were expressed on ground fashion trends for modernity. Third, developed textile designs were printed with digital printing method for eco-friendly and productivity, and various articles clothing, nectie, shoes, bag, bedings were producted with developed fabrics for multipurpose. Forth, the developed textile designs were evaluated highly in point of Korean traditionality and identity, felling of simplehearted, pure hear and sweet, modernity and fashion trend, and preference by a sensory test of developed test design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2007

Black has played a more important role in the history of fashion than other colors. In general, black was regarded as a color of negative images. However, as people have recognized the aesthetic value of black color, they have expressed unique and various images of black through the medium of clothes. This study was based on both theory research and actual survey, where survey sheets were distributed to collect data. For data analysis, SPSS 10.0, a statistics software, was used, and frequency, pecentage, t-test, ANOVA test, and Duncan test were adopted and analyzed. The survey was conducted on 608 men over 20 in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, Gangwon Province, and other areas for two months from May 20, 2005 to July 25, 2005. The analysis showed the following results. First, Dignity was the mostly cited image of black color among men followed by modernity, sorrow, feminineness, abstinence, and sensuality. Second, Men showed different responses according to their age. In sum, men more strongly recognize abstinence and sensuality in black dress as they become older. Marital status significantly affected men's recognition of black dress in terms of abstinence and sensuality. Abstinence was more strongly recognized by married men than single men. In addition, married men pointed out sensuality of black dress more frequently than single men. In short, married men tended to recognize abstinence and sensuality more easily than single men. Education level clearly affected men's recognition of dignity, modernity, and abstinence in black dress. In sum, as men got higher education, they tended to increasingly recognize dignity and modernity in black dress. In conclusion, this study has proved that black dress has unique aesthetic values and reflects various images according to age, marital status, education level.