• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.511-519
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• 2003

The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.98-111
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• 2006

The objective of this research is to examine the commonness and differences of Korean, Chinese and Japanese costume colors of modern and present ages. The result of this study showed that modern China and Japan had quick influx speed of Western culture. Dissimilarly, modern Korea kept conception of colors from Chosun periods that show the high frequency of 'Five Elements Colors' and neutral colors in Red, Yellow and Purple Blue. Today, the costumes of China, Korea and Japan use similar tones of color but each country approached in different selections of achromatic colors; Korean prefers color in Yellow Red, Purple, and Chinese in Green Yellow, Green and Japanese in Purple Blue. Light greyish and pale toned Yellow Red and grayish tone have increased in modern Chinese and Japanese costumes. Also both countries have corresponding assumptions in using color of Red in strong tone. The analysis of color and tone distribution showed that, Japanese costume colors in modern and present times have correlative number of use as in Western culture. Traditionally, Japan has least notion of using 'Five Elements Colors' which only gives minor changes by convergence of Western color culture. In other side, China had developed in color rather than tone compares to Korea and Japan by using many of the Red color of strong, vivid and deep tones which made red distinguishing color of China. Japan continues to use of low chroma colors and became a characteristic in modern and present day, also they use an abundance of color in Yellow Red, purple Blue. Korea has a higher frequency showing in light, bright tones of color distinctively compares to China and Japan.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.23-39
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• 2011

The Sungnyemun roofing tiles were twice disassembled for maintenance work, in 1963 and 1997, and modern tiles were applied in 1997. However, besides differing in visual appearance, the modern tiles had distinctly different physical properties. A study has been carried out on 22 different tiles, including original Sungnyemun tiles, modern tiles applied during maintenance, traditional tiles made by tile-makers, and others, to examine their physical properties, such as bending strength, frost resistance, absorption, whole-rock magnetic susceptibility, chromaticity, differential thermal analysis, and other characteristics. Since the method of making modern tiles involves compressing clay in a vacuum, modern tiles showed relatively greater bending strength and specific gravity, while Sungnyemun tiles and those made by tile-makers, in comparison, demonstrated less bending strength and specific gravity owing to their production method of 'treading,' in which clay is mixed by having someone tread upon it repeatedly. Over time, the absorption rate of the original tile used for Sungyemun gradually decreased from 21% to 14.7%; traditional tiles from tile-makers showed absorption rates of 17%, while the absorption rate of modern tiles was just 1%, which is significantly low. As for frost resistance, Sungnyemun tiles and traditional tiles from tile-makers showed cracking and exfoliation after being subjected to testing 4 or 5 times, while slight cracking was seen on the surface for modern tiles after 1ngy, or 3 times. In other words, no significant difference from influence by frost was found. According to the results of differential thermal analysis, the plastic temperature was shown to have been no less than 1, $on^{\circ}C$ for all types of tile, and cristobalite was measuredthrough XRD analysis from a Sungnyemun female tile applied during maintenance in 1963, which appeared to have been plasticized at between $1,200^{\circ}C{\sim}1,300^{\circ}C$. Based on these research results on the physical properties of tiles from the Sungnyemun roof, a fundamental production method for tiles to be applied in the restoration of Sungnyemun has been identified.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.121-131
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• 1995

Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.

• Magazine of the Korea Concrete Institute
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• v.18 no.6 s.95
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• pp.24-27
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• 2006

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.5 no.2 s.10
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• pp.69-82
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• 1996

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.39-47
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• 2010

As various materials and new methods can be used due to developments in science and expansion of thinking, modern architectural color composes extensive possibilities exceeding its physical role of the past. In particular, rather than the initial external expression, the secondary connotative interpretation is more important in interpreting architectural color. This is because color interpretation changes the meaning of space based on light. Also, the development of digital technology has shifted the use of architectural color from passive realization to a more proactive concept and value. In other words, such shift leads to a new discussion on architectural color such as non-representation, invisibility, and non-physicality as the concept of fixed time, space and movement has been weakened. This paper begins by conceptualizing the digital space, a term widely used to interpret the architectural color of digital space. And it will be categorized as non-representational architectural color, invisible architectural color, and non-physical architectural color, by combining the characteristics of digital space with the modern architecture's color examples. Digital space overcoming the space time is differently interpreted from the past color expression. Modern architecture's color which substitutes the passive view with active body takes a role delivering various axes of discussions with synaesthesia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.116-132
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• 2008

Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. In the thought of postmodernism of the late of 20th Century, continuous creations of the difference and the repetition have being regarded as a discontinuity. But, because of that catches the moment occurring qualitative skip though the flowing of the everlasting time, this has been known to a shortsighted viewpoint overlooking characteristic of the qualitative continuity of an organism, which have being created continuous formation for life through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this had studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the qualitative continuity. This Thesis is following study about continuity, and aims at understanding of those formative characteristics through consideration about characteristics of qualitative continuity. And, this analyzes formative characteristics of the qualitative continuity into 5 sets: enlargement, conversion, structural variability, mutual combination, and deconstruction. This thesis intends to grasp complex modern social phenomenon and modern fashion into qualitative continuity that means continuous formation and the change of various relationships according to recognition about the course toward open thinking.