• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.324-330
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is on the meaning and variety about gender expressed in modern fashion. The results are as follows ; First, the typical masculine gender was authority, discretion as a result of heteropatriarchy focused on the western reason. It was conservative and the symbolic image type of the meaning excluded masculine sexual expression. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of straight silhouette, dark color, rough and stiff material. Second, the typical feminine gender was the symbolic image type of a mother and a wife defined relatively by man as a result of western heteropatriarchy and the image type which men regarded women as sexual objects. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of silhouette which let bodily curve out, light color, soft material. The most typical item is dress and suit. Third, androgyny has been described as the feminie gender of androgynous, which shows masculine image as the effect of feminism and social success of professional women. Dress and its ornament is expressed as the style of business suit, the symple of typical man's one. The masculine gender of androgynous is showed man's suit as silhouette that let bodily curve out, light color, exposure and soft material, which is the symbol of feminine dress, Fourth, unisex is the area of dress and its ornament used the sexless symbol which there has been no gender more because of the spread of sports and diffusion of leisure in life style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.731-739
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• 2004

As the life styles have been changed in modern society and sports gave been emphasized for spending spare time and improving health condition, sports are regarded to lave a leading role to fashion as one of the prominent factors. This study is to analyze the gender-identity and how different levels of involvement in In-line skating affects clothing interests. 291 In-line skaters ranged in age from middle twenties to middle thirties were surveyed and measured for this study. MANOVA(multivariate analysis of variance), ANOVA(univariate analysis of variance), Cronbach ${\alpha}$ reliability, t-test, and correlation analysis were performed with SPSS 10.0 program on the selected data. The results of this study are as follow. There were no obvious differences in In-line skating clothing interests by gender of In-line skaters. There were, however, differences in the reasons for In-line skating, the hours to skate per week. Those whose purpose for skating was diet had more interest in style focused on expression. In case of skating for health, they showed interest in activity-functionality style and anti-deviation style. The group of In-line skaters who skated 15 to 18 per week gave more interest in activity-functionality style out of the clothing interest-factors. Those who had strong masculinity in gender-identity of In-line skaters were more involved in In-line skating. There were some differences in clothing interests according to gender-identity of In-line skaters. In regard of In-line skating clothing interest by involvement in In-line skating, those who had higher involvement in In-line skating had higher In-line skating clothing interest.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.71-83
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.225-245
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.12
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• pp.186-196
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• 2018

Sports has become one way to improve our own health and to enjoy life by changing the lifestyle of modern-day people. Sports athletes not only give pleasure to the public, but also play a role in elevating a nation's reputation through sports. Tennis is popular with the public, and women players receive tennis wear from various sports companies to promote the designs to the public. This study considers the design-related characteristics of women's tennis wear through content analysis of design elements from the tennis wear in four major tournaments over the most recent five years. This is important in order to provide basic data on design directions for tennis wear in the future. The results of this study are as follows. First, the silhouette plays a role in enhancing activity by considering the physical movement of tennis players who are very active. Second, color emphasizes the rules and clarity of traditional tennis tournaments, and reflects a diversified trend in tennis wear by considering smooth game play by players and combining popular colors in the year. Third, patterns and decorations on material are used as a means to emphasize the esthetics of tennis wear, and tape plays an auxiliary role in emphasizing the physical beauty of women or preventing physical movement causing injury. In addition, sponsor logos are generally located at the center of the chest of tennis wear tops by mixing letters and images. This can be interpreted as a part of the marketing strategy to enhance clarity of the sponsor's brand.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.161-175
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• 2009

Dongdaemun Stadium was the nation's leading modem sports facilities built in 1926 by Japanese colonists. It hosted a number of the nation's sports matches and cultural performances, filled with cultural and historic significance as a birthplace of Korea's sports. As the facility was aging, however, its functions became limited. With the so-called "restoration" of Cheonggye Stream, the stadium was reduced to a flea market, no longer used for its originally intended purposes. The Seoul Metropolitan Government demolished the stadium under the plan to develop the district into a tourism cluster dedicated to the design and fashion industries. This study takes Dongdaemun Stadium as an example to explain underlying meanings of capitalist restructuring of landscape which entails removal of modern cultural relics and redevelopment projects. Although Dongdaemun Stadium was not used in the way it had been designated to be used, it still had a value as a diachronic and synchronic record for the city. The rationale that the stadium should be tom down and reinvented as tourist attraction to reap huge financial benefits illustrates that the city government's development ideology gravitated towards public works projects. This approach may harm a place's genuine disposition or essence and create an artificially-induced placeness, undermining its historio-cultural values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

A concept of 'digital' is changing a living pattern of moderners, with having influence on the whole life of modern society. The purpose of this study is arrange the frame of conformity to the 'fashion as culture' by considering the social and cultural phenomena being shown in relation to digital, which is a concept being watched most for the 21st century and by trying to analyze a tendency of digital culture being shown in the modernly fashion design based on this. The digital culture, which is a concept of generalizing the phenomena of interactional changes in the sub-structure being derived by digital technology, is being shown as a tendency of fusionization and globalization, and due to this, the culture of digital nomads is being formed. On the other hand, a tendency of amenity caused by the reaction against the coldly digital technology, is forming one axis of digital culture. As the culture, which experiences the process of a change by digital technology, is reflected even on the fashion, the fusion of technology and the human body, brought about the appearance and the development of the artificial body, by allowing the wearable computer to be introduced to fashion and by being connected directly to the body. This means the expansion of range for fashion. The destruction of a border between space and space, is making an opportunity of forming another ego inside the cyber space, with bringing about the mixed loading between the cyber space and the real space. As the border between the cyber space and the real space is being collapsed, the space of newly self-realization is being created. The collapse of gender is being shown as the pursuit of gender, which is a nomadic concept of not giving priority to anywhere of male gender and female gender. The tendency of sensitive design introduced the sports look as the largely fashion trend. Fascinated with Zen thoughts is leading to a response to the swiftly and coldly social conditions caused by machine. The digital culture by digital technology and the fashion tendency being shown by its influence, meet the needs of self-realization and self-expansion for a human being, and satisfy the needs for the expression of self-identity for a human being, and enable the search for introspection about inner existence inside the self.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.