• 기호학연구
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• v.60
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• pp.81-103
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to establish the direction and direction of the establishment of a free verse as the concept of the unit of rhythm and writing(律文一致) in the process of forming a modern free verse and to argue about it. In general, it was free verse under the influence of symbolism that our poetry was chosen from the threshold of modern times as a new poetic form of modern times. However, in the reality of Joseon, language has not yet been organized. Although the language of poetry has a distinction from the customs of ordinary languages, the analysis and understanding of poetry has been forced to presuppose an understanding of the language text. For the same reason, literary officials who sought the modern era of Joseon had to think about the rhythm of being referred to as the phonetic level. For this reason, in the phase of seeking a new prototype through the acceptance of modern early Western literature, the question of the universal nature of poetry was mainly directed through the theoretical question of "what is poetry?" But as the perception of the Korean language expanded, it focused on the agony of the Joseon Dynasty amid the special context of 'What is Joseon Dynasty?' In particular, Kim Eok's theory of poetry is an example of whether to understand the rhythm, which correspond to the phonetic stratum of language, at the formal level. This is the process of eventually passing on the fundamental question of "What is poetry?" to the special question of "What is Joseon poetry?" and could result in the question of how to match Joseon's writing and phonetic structure. 「格調詩形論小考」 is an example of this concern.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.65-73
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• 2010

This study is to discuss the content of Posangkimun on the whole and to report the understanding of Seokgok Lee Gyujoon on western civilization. Through the overall analysis of Posangkimun, it is found the following facts: 1. Posangkimun aroused interest of academic circles as it covered theories of western civilization. Most of the introduction to western civilization contained in the book is related to astronomy and geography. Seokgok criticized all the western theories on revolution of the earth, astronomy, continents and oceans on the ground that these theories were not congruous with the teaching of the Oriental sages. 2. Seokgok found the reasons why the West had led the East from 'nationalism' of the West. The nationalism mentioned here were more similar to 'democracy' in modern sense, or rather 'democratism'. What is specially noteworthy is that he did not find the reasons of western advancement from the spiritual issues not from the machine civilization. In this way, Seokgok could avoid the fallacy of throwing away traditional ideas to concentrate in western machine civilization. 3. The content of Posangkimun shows that Seokgok was a person with a very conservative view. Notwithstanding his inclination, he had good knowledge about western theories, most of which were gathered from newspapers and magazines at that time. It means that newspapers and magazines should be treated with more importance when studying Korean intellectuals in late Joseon period or during the time of Japanese forced occupation.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.27
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• pp.167-195
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• 2012

A Chinese female writer Linhaiyin(林海音) and Chengnanjiushi(城南舊事), her representative work, have never been studied in Korea before although she and her literary works stand high and are well known in the history of the modern Chinese literature. Thus, in this paper, I analyze her and her novels included in Chengnanjiushi and study their literary value and meaning. To analyze and study them, I mainly consider novels Anhuiguan, Womenkanhaiqu, Lanyiniang, $L{\acute{\ddot{u}}}dagunr$, and Babadehuarluole included in Chengnanjiushi. Firstly, I look into her attitude and mode to observe children and women's life as a writer. Such attitude and mode succeeded to the spirit of the '5.4 literature'. Secondly, I evaluate Linhaiyin's 'Both sides complex' and its value in the history of literature. From this evaluation, the meaning of Linhaiyin's literature is highlighted. She was free from 'Both sides complex' occurred due to the circumstance of the times and played a role of a bridge so as not to break off literature of China and Taiwan. When her and her works are evaluated, this is one of the most important values. The characteristic of her writing mode is that she did not seek a compelling climax, a surprising reversal, or an exclusive plot or character in her works. In her works, plain description or unwitting conversation and story often imply deep meanings. Thus, at unexpected moment after reading her novels, readers truly listen to deep resonance for her attitude and mode to observe people's life. This is exactly her potential energy that makes readers sink into her literary world regardless of time and space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.69-76
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• 2011

This study focuses on the origin and the literature of eyelid-acupuncture, nunchim therapy in Korea and its present clinical usage in modern Korea. The therapy is called nunchim at local area of Korea and has been transmitted as folk remedy because its real practice has been fallen into oblivion in the regular medical institution in modern Korea. On the contrast, some old women called nunchim-halmae, still know its practice and give medical therapy in a certain irregular way. While many kinds of eye clinics are prevalent in Korea, some patients with chronic eye diseases still go to get the nunchim therapy from nunchim-halmae. Moreover some oriental medical doctors have learned the therapy from nunchim-halmae and performed that medical service in their clinics in spite of absence of medical insurance coverage. Nunchim has unique historic origin and transmission linage in Korea, which was shed light on by this research. We present concise structure of the essence of nunchim therapy and 80 year old woman case of dramatic eye curing with the therapy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is research on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed on western hair styles in the late 20th century. Therefore this thesis analyzed the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. That will re-illuminate the same beauty worth of same age as to accurate the concept of post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. And the last, criticizing the post-modernism design and that hair design, helping to find new trends. The method of this study was the literature research & analysis of visual materials focus on upper bust image that can know the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage, and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. First, the literature research is composed of analysis of theses, magazines on art, clothing and cosmetology having the contents of 20th century western culture, art and hair styles. Second, the analysis of visual materials is composed of analysis of video films, slide films and photographs of books, magazines, and internet home-pages. Modern western hair styles, appeared after 1910's, is represented as a short cut & permanent wave. That express experimentalism, functionalism, and purism, that is same as the other art's trend of same age. Post-modern western hair styles, appeared after 1960's, also show the same trend with same age's. This summarized & characterized 8 categories; historical method, pluralism, negotiation, escape from the formality, recovery of humanity, ornament, connection with race, metaphor & symbolism. But post-modernism concentrating pluralism makes easy making low quality art and absence of criticism, so this thesis criticised it 5 categories; absence of ideas, absence of the social sense of responsibility, lost of one's characteristics, decline of skills, decline of worth of usages.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.120-135
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• 2010

Since emotion, creativity, and imagination has become the source of creating added value, the purpose of this study is to grasp the concept of high concept which has appeared as a major key word of modern culture and analyze the types of emotional expression found in modern fashion. Study methods were focused on literature review and case study. The literature review was conducted by news stories at home and abroad. The examples of case study were collected in fashion collection journals and related Internet web sites with their focus on from 2000 S/S to 2009 F/W to analyze emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion. The concept of 'high concept' suggested by Pink, Daniel H. lays on stress on ability to creative emotional value or cultural artistic value hidden behind the functional value, to make stories, and to combine ideas which do not seem to be connected with existing things. As a result of study, The forms of emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion included: art collaboration and art inspiration which were expressed through cross-category of culture and art; multi-culture design which expresses a mixture between western fashion and oriental costumes; funology design which expresses efficient value by high technology and fun value through humorous elements; and emotional digital design which can be transformed in function, shape and the use of materials representing light which is effectively used for fashion to represent fantasy or illusion connected with digital technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.31-47
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• 2019

This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.