• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.65-77
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to document the fashions adopted by young women in the United States in the 1980s and to explore if and how the dynamic shifts toward postmodernist values influenced those fashion trends. Fifteen U.S. women who were college students in the 1980s were interviewed for the study. In analysis of the data, we focused on social changes during the 1980s and the cultural impact of postmodernism vs. modernism as influential factors. Both postmodern and feminist ideas challenged the mainstream cultural framework of capitalism. U.S. women's styles and behaviors concerning dress reflected characteristics of postmodern consumption patterns, which include nostalgia, ethnic dress, androgyny, eclectic and novel clothing combinations, surprising or humorous appearance, and nonconformity. Despite the critique of conformity and conservatism in dress that had emerged in the 1960s and remained in at least minority or subversive trends, the importance of brand names and designer labels increased in mainstream fashion. This study helps us better understand the dynamics of fashion as it reflects societal and value changes in a transitional time in history.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.187-207
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• 1999

The fashion advertisement is communication method between clothing and consumer. The development of mass communication accelerated that In modern society Post-modernism advertisement is a specialized and separated from so it confuses the consumers who are used in traditional AD. The peculiarities (non-form, destruction of description, compound of genre, mixing of reality and fiction) are more reflected in fashion advertisement. The sample consisted of 425 mail and female and the results were analyzed using frequency and percentage calculation Close tabs T-Test Oneway Anova Factor analysis Chi-square Test, Regression, Correlation Analysis. The result of this study were as follows: The post-modernism fashion ad is the separated and reflected from for young age's favorite. By the factor analysis of consumer response in each 5 emotional factors proved to be valid ones(fine, negative, sexual, stimulative, constructive aspects.) The fine and negative aspects of the factors are very concerned with the consumer's favorite attitude of fashion ad. There is no significant difference in age job but sex has a significant difference. In according to the method of the ad expression consumer's acceptance is difference in sex. There were no significant concern with excess effects and purchase intend in fashion advertisement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.416-429
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of VM components(facade color and show window type) on store image and purchasing intention of fashion stores. The subjects were 428 male and female university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The measuring instruments were 6 stimuli manipulated by $3{\times}2$ factorial design of facade color and show window type, and a self-administrated questionnaire consisted of store image, purchasing intention, and subjects' demographic characteristics. The results were as follows. First, facade color mainly affected store image and purchasing intention. White color was preferred as more positive images(pleasurable, comfortable, neat, and modern), and showed higher purchasing intention than brown color. Second, show window type affected some store images. Semi-open type was perceived as more pleasurable image than enclosed type, whereas enclosed type was perceived as more luxurious, neat, and attractive image than semi-open type. However, show window type didn't affect purchasing intention. Third, subject' sex affected store image and purchasing intention. Male subjects perceived more positively on store image and had higher purchasing intention than females. This study suggested that facade color and show window type are important VM components affecting store image and purchasing intention.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.15-30
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• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to seek the means of enlarging the application of Saek-dong to fashion products by surveying and analysing the recognition and image of Saek-dong in college students. As a research procedure, the bibliographical survey on the meaning and history of Saek-dong was preceded in this study, and the students were examined on the recognition and image of Saek-dong through the questionnaires. The female students were more acquiesced with the Saek-dong and Saek-dong clothing than the male students. And the students thought that the Saek-dong was our original and traditional clothing because it was worn by our ancestors from the earliest years. The word Saek-dong reminded them of red, yellow, blue, green, white and red-brown colors in order of appearance. The most familiar color-arrange to them was red+yellow+dark-brown+green+blue, and the blue, purple, green, red, white color was thought as manly Saek-dong colors and the yellow, red, dark-brown, pink, white was regarded as feminine Saek-dong colors. Saek-dong was primarily associated with the image of Saek-dong clothing and most of the students expressed their feeling about the Saek-dong as 'cute.' Most of the students responded that the practical Hanbok was best illustrated as the most applied clothing of Saek-dong and that the attempt to apply the color and pattern of Saek-dong to other modern artistic products was likely to damage the worth of traditional Saek-dong. When it comes to the matter of applying the design of Saek-dong to the fashion products, male students thought that it could be best applied to the shirts, while female students thought that the design of Saek-dong could best be applied to the personal ornaments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1331-1341
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• 2002

The purpose of the study is to clarify orange image in the modem fashion. So kinds of costume sample being visual power in orange have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines and divided into the tones : mist(Vp, Lgr, L), bright(p, B), vivid(S, V, Dp). The study was measured by using 27 semantic differential hi-polar scales. The subjects were 50 female students majoring in clothing and textiles, The data was analyzed using the statistical SPSS package. The data were collected using self-administred questionnaires and analyzed by MDS, Cluster Analysis, ANOVA Sheff test and Regression analysis. The major findings of this research were as follows. 1. Evaluaion dimension of orange was classified as Feminine-Mannish, Lively-Mist.2. There were significant difference in visual evaluation of tones.3. The image effect on Preference, Buying needs, Pleasant and Riches was consist of complicated sensibility.