• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.189-201
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• 2007

Contemporary young people reveal their own personal values through the fashion that creates visual looks. Since 2000s began, young generations who are self-centered, value their own personality and constantly seek for changes form the main axis of fashion. In particular, the lower half of the body that has begun to be exposed outward has become the region that they want to expose as more ideal region than the upper half of the body. Further, young generations always have interest in fashion, and female college students in their early 20s are regarded as the group that values the aspects of pleasure that involve clothes and tends to seek sensibility when purchasing clothes. With this background, this study aims to examine how the styles that apply to modern fashion and recent vogues are evaluated with a focus on skinny jean from jean pants styles preferred by female college students. Materials regarding theoretical background and photos were collected from fashion related magazines at home and abroad and from the Internet websites. Questionnaires were surveyed for 160 female college students aged 20 or 25 who live in Seoul, and the results show as follows: Many female college students enjoy skinny jean and follow the fashion. However there are consumers who cling to their own styles even in the fashion of skinny jen. Ironically, some consumers wear it although they consider it as an item that does not fit Koreans: they tend to consider perspectives from others rather than their own preferences. For example, they wear it in order to show it to their boy friends or because they want themselves to look slim. In addition consumers seem to use Dongdaemun Shopping Mall or Internet shopping malls that provide various and low-priced items rather than to use high-priced famous products. It is considered that this result is shown as above because the scope of the study was restricted to female college students in their 20s. Accordingly, it is suggested that further studies should extend their subjects to wider range of ages.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2015

From the 1920s to 1945, East Asia experienced radical social change with the introduction of new fashion styles, and new ways of thinking, from the West. The emergence of a new generation of "new women" educated in modern schools was part of this phenomenon, and functioned as a trend-setting influence in East Asian society. In schools, education in dressmaking, sewing, and home economics were important parts of female education. Adopting a new fashion style is, by necessity, accompanied by the new technology of dressmaking. Given that ready-made clothing was not generally available, dressmaking education also served to introduce a new material culture. In Korea and Taiwan under Japanese colonization, the greater part of school curricula and textbooks mirrored those in Japan, which enabled these countries to develop and adopt transnational styles as well as local styles. This research explores the transition of women's fashion in East Asia in modern and colonial conditions from the 1920s to the 1940s by analysing curricula and textbooks on dressmaking in comparison with the prevailing styles in each region. This is expected to suggest the impact of modernity in East Asia and the transnational styles of fashion in colonial Korea and Taiwan, as well as Japan, developed within the local culture. Colonial conditions are also discussed in terms of their impact and limitations in the transition of styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.30-44
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• 2010

The definition of pregnancy has changed as society and its values have developed through different periods of history. In the ancient period, the definition of a woman's fertility was that female deities provided fecundity to barren women and barren land, and protected both the pregnant women during the period of gestation and also the land during the time of growth. These goddesses also administered the appropriate ceremonial rituals for conception and childbirth, and for planting and harvesting. After that, for the last 2,000 years, the most conspicuous icon has been "The Virgin Mary with the Infant Christ". Mary was the mother of Jesus Christ and model for Christian women. However, the centuries the image of woman and pregnancy has been changed, modern society through education, careers and job opportunities allows many women to be more than just a wife or a mother. Moreover, in the 21st century, many pregnant women want stylish maternity wear because they are proud and their minds are opened by these new icons of birth culture as like the pregnancy of many famous stars. From this the purposes of this study are as follows, Firstly, to study on the meaning of woman's fertility from ancient period to present time by social changes. Secondly, to investigate the historical concept of the maternity wear for current modern maternity fashion market. Finally, to expect to use this study would be helpful basic data for develop of the new researches of the maternity fashion in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to review the Chinese traditional patterns and to apply one of them, the Peony Blossom pattern into modern textile designs for fashion For this purpose, first, the categories and symbolic meanings of the patterns existing in the Chinese traditional clothing from literature were reviewed. Second, the Peony Blossom patterns of Chinese traditional patterns from literature were reviewed and selected one of them, Third, authors applied the Peony Blossom pattern to creative textile design which would fit to appetite of people lived in modern society. The results were as follows: The patterns of Chinese traditional clothing could be classified as animal pattern, plant pattern, nature pattern, character pattern, lucky token pattern, geometric pattern and so on. All these patterns contained individual symbolic meaning, which varied according the different wearers. Moreover, it endows a peony blossom pattern of Chinese traditional patterns with modern style and purposes the textile design. The theme of the design is "Luxuriant Outing" with the concept of "Dream in Fantasy". The design target is the female born in the 1980's, that is, the target population between 20 and 30 years old. In addition, it is designed for the romantic one-piece. This paper perceives the national spirit revealed in the Chinese traditional patterns and designs with the combination of traditional culture and modernized technique of expression.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.28-42
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• 2006

In present modern society, media contributes more to the constructing of personal identities than any other medium. Music video, a postmodernism branch among a variety of media, offers a complex experience of sounds combined with visual images. In particular. fashion in music video helps conveying contexts effectively and functions as a medium of immediate communication by visual effect. Considering the socio-cultural effects of music video. gender identity represented in fashion in it can be of great importance. Therefore, this study is geared to the reconsidering of gender identity represented through costumes in music video by analyzing fashions in it. Gender identity in socio-cultural category is classified as masculinity, femininity, and the third sex. By examining fashions based on the classification. this study will help to create new design concepts and to understand gender identity in fashion. The results of this study are as follows: First. masculinity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped masculinity, sexual masculinity. and metro sexual masculinity. Second, femininity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped femininity. sexual femininity, and contra sexual femininity. Third, the third sex in music video fashion was categorized into transvestism, masculinization of female, and feminization of male. This phenomenon is presented into music videos through females in male attire and males in female attire. Through this research, gender identity represented in fashion of music video was demonstrated, and the importance of the relationship between representation of identity through fashion and socio-cultural environment was reconfirmed.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.20-31
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• 2008

A person's external image is a non-verbal form of communication, through which the person's tastes, mode of thought, preferences, and overall personality is expressed. The dominant factor in building an external image is clothing, since clothing-images provide the most information about a person in the least amount of time. This study aims to investigate the relationship between the clothing- images of women politicians and the improvement of women's social status in Korea, by focusing on changes in clothing-image of female politicians at public functions throughout modern Korean history, and inquiring into the method of classification concerning aforementioned images. The time period of this study starts from 1945, when the first female political party was established, to the 2008 presidential elections. The methodology of this study consists of literature study of related books, theses and journals, which was jointly conducted with empirical study consisting of the research of news photographs of major daily newspapers. This study confirmed the clothing images of women politicians since liberation till 2000's reflects the directions of women's movement and their status in return. It is especially meaningful that the sudden increase of romantic and feminine images among the women politician in Korea is the reflection of the ideas of postmodern feminism which emphasize the acknowledgement of womanhood and the enjoyment of being a woman as its core.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.65-81
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to interpret the semantic actions of body image symbolized in body expression images shown by micro-influencers body profiles to understand the body profile phenomenon of the MZ generation. As a result of collecting body profile data from micro-influencers, the body profile image types of female influencers on SNS were classified into four types, Athletic, Slim body, Natural, and, Glamorous. Images representing each type were analyzed using the Roland Barthes' Myth model analysis frame. As a result of the semantic analysis, influencers were found to be very active and bold, emphasizing certain body parts according to the type of body image they pursue. Fashion is strategically used to emphasize these aspects. It was found that the ideology of a 'subjective modern woman' was commonly expressed through emphasis on visual signs. This study is meaningful in that it can indirectly lead to the understanding the fashion culture expressed by the MZ generation and provide consumer information and essential data that can be used for communication strategies in the fashion market.