• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제14권8호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2020

본 연구는 중국의 전통문화를 대표하는 곡예를 현대사회 흐름에 부합하는 무대극으로 창작하여 대내외적 공연을 통해 호평을 얻은 IP곡예무대극 '몽지려'의 성공적인 요인을 인문콘텐츠학적 분석방법을 통해 중국문화산업이 갖는 함의를 알아보고자 함에 있다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 중국의 문화산업은 정부의 적극적 진흥정책과 거대 내수시장을 토대로 양적 및 질적으로 성장 발전하였다. 둘째, 전통 문화인 곡예 및 의상에 대한 도전과 변화를 통해 현대 무대극으로서 창작적 표준제시 및 실용적 경험공유를 시도하였다. 셋째, 전통문화의 개혁 및 혁신적인 변화 속에서 동양적 인문사상과 감정을 투입하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 인문학적 관점에서 다양한 자유로운 해석과 확대를 가능하게 할 것이다. 그리고 중국전통문화원형에 대한 분석과 접근 방법을 활용한 신문화 창조 연구를 위한 참고 자료에 활용될 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.145-163
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• 2016

This paper analyses Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings. this paper aims to discuss phases of Kandinsky's works as well as their formative characteristic theory. Practically, with formative characteristics in Kandinsky's paintings such as point, line, plane, form and color, this paper presents four sets of costumes. Among which, geometric patterns are intensively collaged as the formative characteristic of "point" calls for; crossed necklines and waistlines are applied as the characteristic of "lines" represents; plane and solid patterns are adopted as the main parts and ornaments as both the characteristic of "plane" and that of "form" claim; three primary colors - red, blue and yellow - are introduced as the characteristic of "color" depicts. Artificial leathers are used as the main fabric, patchwork and draping as so in technology. Therefore, with the theoretical and practical efforts, this paper aims to seek the interdisciplinary possibilities between paintings and fashion arts, and in order to develop several fashion designs representing modern aesthetics with their unique characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.60-72
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• 2008

A midst the tendency in an attempt to rehabilitate the coexistence of values in Oriental and Western cultures, along with centripetal attention through reincarnation of the Oriental culture, the modem fashion trend is also inclusive of such Oriental flavors even in the opposite Western fashion icons with an outlook for futuristic alternative. In this regard the study is to investigate the Oriental Characteristics shown in the contemporary fashion in a more profound and right manner by evaluating its spirituality and formativeness through analytical survey on preliminary literatures, whose key words are as follows; Fist, heterogeneity inclusive of the Oriental comprehensiveness through non-periodic chaos; second, imperfection in pursue of perfection through non-perfection; third, asymmetry caused by polarized historicity together with agility in the Oriental costumes; fourth, simplicity bridging into religious naught, and; fifth, spatial comfortablity shrouded by loose design. As a result, the study demonstrates that Oriental sensitivity implicative at the modem fashion, prior to its formativeness, shed out a clue of the Oriental profound spirits in its fashion style.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.176-186
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.28-42
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• 2006

In present modern society, media contributes more to the constructing of personal identities than any other medium. Music video, a postmodernism branch among a variety of media, offers a complex experience of sounds combined with visual images. In particular. fashion in music video helps conveying contexts effectively and functions as a medium of immediate communication by visual effect. Considering the socio-cultural effects of music video. gender identity represented in fashion in it can be of great importance. Therefore, this study is geared to the reconsidering of gender identity represented through costumes in music video by analyzing fashions in it. Gender identity in socio-cultural category is classified as masculinity, femininity, and the third sex. By examining fashions based on the classification. this study will help to create new design concepts and to understand gender identity in fashion. The results of this study are as follows: First. masculinity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped masculinity, sexual masculinity. and metro sexual masculinity. Second, femininity in music video fashion was categorized into stereotyped femininity. sexual femininity, and contra sexual femininity. Third, the third sex in music video fashion was categorized into transvestism, masculinization of female, and feminization of male. This phenomenon is presented into music videos through females in male attire and males in female attire. Through this research, gender identity represented in fashion of music video was demonstrated, and the importance of the relationship between representation of identity through fashion and socio-cultural environment was reconfirmed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권11호
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• pp.1634-1644
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• 2007

This study is to define correctly the concept of exotic image that evolved in domestic fashion since 2001 and to analyze the characteristics and current tendency of the domestic fashion items of the exotic image. Thus this study will be helpful in establishing an academic field of the exotic image in the domestic fashion industry which can offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The types of exotic image are #ecological#, #folk & ethnic costume#, #kitchy bricolage#, #womanish#, #period# types by analyzed with the elements of exotic images in the domestic women#s fashion brand. The exotic image in domestic fashion market in the middle of 2000s is the results of fusion phenomena among various trend styles, and through the compromise and mixture of different elements, exaggerations, and historically different times of old and new. In conclusion, the contemporary concept of exotic image is expanded by the sum of many contributing images. They are the folk ethnic costume image originating from various different cultures and also the fusion images of folk ethnic costumes from non-urban, not-modern, not-industrialized images compromised with unfamiliar codes.