• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.551-561
• /
• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.12-27
• /
• 2004

The Tuck, an important component of modem clothing design, was analyzed through various sources of literature comprised chiefly of domestic and imported fashion magazines from 2000 to 2003. The results were as follows: 1) The Tuck was organized in horizontal, perpendicular, oblique and radial directions. Application methods included repetition, gradation, radial arrangement, sequence and alternation of individual lines. 2) The Tuck was found in a variety of forms and uses. But due to structural characteristics, its function is more psychological and aesthetic than functional. The aesthetic properties of the Tuck included rhythm, optical illusion, abstraction, and material. The structural property of the Tuck occasionally substituted bust or waist darts. 3) The individuality and originality of the Tuck was used in unpredictable ways to give spatial ornamentality and emphasis on material. This enabled aesthetically unique designs to arise. To summarize, the Tuck, a component of clothing design as a formative art, was used in a variety of methods towards developing creative clothing design.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권12호
• /
• pp.1971-1980
• /
• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 전통적인 니트웨어에 대한 의미와 깊이를 파악하고 베르그송과 들뢰즈의 연속성 이론을 배경으로, 전통 니트의 대표적 패턴인 아란 모티프를 응용한 니트웨어의 디자인 전개와 개발을 해보는데 있다. 현대패션에서 보여지는 주름, 종이접기, 공기주입시스템, 방울이나 꼬임 등에서 느낄 수 있는 소통, 공간적 느낌, 해체적 유동성 등이 연속성 이론의 기본이 된다. 아란 니트는 역사적 전통성을 가지고 있으며, 아란 니트에서 보여지는 모티프는 이러한 연속성의 이론에 부합하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 아란 모티프에서 연속성의 대표적인 케이블 모티프와 연속성 이론을 바탕으로 5점의 핸드 니트웨어를 디자인, 제작하였다. 전통적인 아란 니트와 연속성이론에 기초한 작품 제작 결과를 통하여 새로운 의미를 전달할 수 있는 니트 디자인 개발이 지속적으로 이루어지길 바란다.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.80-86
• /
• 2008

This study is to understand how fluidity and natural features of Art Nouveau style are reflected in hair style of Art Nouveau age and Modem age and be a help to the trend analysis of hair style in the future. The study is conducted with the research on Art Nouveau expression in hair style and analysis of hair-show, trend presentation, documents related with hair style, TV drama, theses, journals and internet etc through advance research for Art Nouveau and Hair. The result of the analysis on Art Nouveau pattern in hair design is presented as below. First, it shows rounded, winding, flowing and thick-waved style of Art Nouveau pattern in modem long and short hair style. It also shows the beauty of long, bending and flexible lines, waving liveness and thin and slim lines and this is the Art Nouveau pattern that is also applied to other fields. In terms of decoration, it does not use tree vines, leaves and petals that are expressed in paintings of Art Nouveau age. Second, it shows natural up-style by lifting hair up with waved long hair that is one pattern of Art Nouveau and expresses hair style with feathers of birds, tree vines, leaves and petals etc for more decoration in animal pattern to make cute, romantic and elegant style in hair style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.55-63
• /
• 2005

The outcome of modem sports events are reliant on not only the athletic ability and technology of individual players but their sportswear proterties. State-of-the-Hitech sportswear has started to be introduced in the 1950s, and in addition to the athletic capability of players, sportswear is one of the primary factors to affect the results of sports games, as a wide variety of Hi-Tech functional materials have come out since the 1990s. The purpose of this study was to development into the concept of active sportswear, to sort out hitech functional product lines in this field, to look into sports stars and Hi-Tech functional sports brands, and finally to identify the major characteristics of recent active sportswear. The result of this study were as follows: 1. There were largely four characteristics in recent functional sportswear materials: fast-drying cooling, minimized resistance, ultralight comfortableness, and water vapor permeable/waterproof function. 2. Besides the athletic capability and technology of players, Hi-Tech functional products are one of the major factors to determine the outcome of modem sports events. Functional synthetic fiber is preferred, instead of cotton, since the former is easier to manage and retains humidity better. 3. The major features of recent trend in active sportswear products are, functional, diversity and value. That is, those products are functional, since they are easy to manage and retain proper humidity, and they are for multipurpose, since they are fashionable and practical at the same time. And they are valuable, being expensive but appropriate for the movement of the body and having a high quality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.99-109
• /
• 2009

한 후란 중국의 전통 복장을 말하는 것이다. 한 장 (漢裝) 이라고도 하며 고대 복장이라고도 한다. 영어로는 silk robe라고도 한다. 한 후는 한 나라 이후 명나라까지 만주가 정복하기 전인 1644년까지 입혀졌던 중국의 전통복장이다. 최근 중국에서도 전통복장에 대한 새로운 모색이 일어나고 있다. 중국 전통복식으로 대표되는 치파오는 만주족의 한족 말살 정책의 일환으로 간소화시킨 복식이다. 따라서 중국 전통의복은 만주족에 의해 사양길을 가기 전 고대 한 조의 복식이 중국전통을 대표한다고 할 수 있다. 전통적인 한 후 스타일은 벨트를 매며 여밈이 있고 좁은 소매 혹은 넓은 소매가 특징이다. 한 족이 한 나라, 상 왕조, 송나라, 당나라때 입었던 한 후가 중국의 복식을 대표하는 복식이며 주나라의 쉔의는 튜닉과 스타일의 결합으로서 아직도 상류그룹이 입고 있다. 당나라에서는 동방의 문화와 혼합되어 화려하거나 사치스럽게 수정되었고 만주가 침범하여 한 후는 더 이상 전통복으로 입히지 못하였다. 한 후의 현대적 의미를 볼 때 역사적으로는 베트남에서 기모노에 이르기까지 그 원형을 볼 수 있고 한 후를 통해 중국전통 복식의 원류를 찾을 수 있다. 연구방법으로 문헌과 시각자료를 활용하였다. 한 후의 현대적 의미는 전통의 새로운 자각과 세계화 현대화의 노력이라 할 수 있다. 치파오로 규정된 중국복식에 반해 전통 한 후에 대한 올바른 인식과 활용은 세계화와 오리엔탈이미지에 녹아 있는 한 후 디자인 디테일을 통해 현대적 모색을 활용하고 있다. 충분한 시각 자료가 부족하지만 현대적 노력이 앞으로의 중국이미지의 재고를 가져올 것이다.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.195-204
• /
• 2005

본 연구의 목적은 최근 문화 속에서 새로운 가치기준으로 주목받고 있는 취향의 개념을 체계적으로 정리하고, 취향을 중심으로 현대패션에 표현된 룩의 조형성과 미적가치에 대하여 살펴보는 데에 있다. 취향은 개인에 의해 개별적으로 추구되는 삶의 방식이며 선호이자 현대사회 내에서 개인을 구별짓는 중요한 요소이며, 특히 패션은 취향의 차별화를 표현하는 주요 대상이다. 취향이 표현된 룩으로는 시대를 초월한 멋쟁이 취향의 댄디룩과 최근에 새롭게 주목받고 있는 저속한 취항이 표현된 키치룩, 성적 이상 취향이 표현된 페티시룩, 엽기 취향이 표현된 그로테스크룩과 어린 취향이 표현된 키덜트룩 등이 있다. 현대인의 다양한 취향과 그의 표현인 룩은 패션의 향유를 통한 즐거움의 추구이며 현재에 대한 긍정적인, 그리고 미래에 대한 적극적인 기대를 나타내는 상징적 표현이라 할 수 있다. 룩을 통해 패션과 사회는 서로 소통할 수 있으며, 디자이너는 컬렉션을 통해 룩을 효과적으로 제안함으로써 소비자의 취향을 만족시키는 핵심적인 역할을 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과는 취향에 대한 학문적 근거를 제공해 주며, 패션으로 표현된 미적 가치를 보석 줌으로써 문화 속의 취향과 패션의 룩에 대한 해석의 틀을 제공할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.796-809
• /
• 2007

The viewpoint of growth pursuit is changed to that of life quality's and happiness' pursuit by modern people. Modern people in digital environment, tired of fast-changing and oppressive daily life, prefer well-being trend providing tranquility and relaxation. Well-being is related to digital, because negative influences of digital lead human-oriented, environment-friendly well-being design. Therefore the purpose of this study is to research and analyze the relation of well-being fashion design and digital environment through case study in contemporary well-being fashion design. The results of this study are as follows: 1. This study shows that the attributes of digital environment make up function-intensive, interactivity, mobility & nomad, human & emotion-oriented and environment-friendly. And this study shows the design characteristics of digital environment consist of function-intensive design by digital convergence, open structure design for interactivity, modular design for mobility & nomad, emotion-oriented & multi-sensory design and environment- friendly design. 2. Function-intensive design in modem well-being fashion composed of vogue of caports style(casual+sports), practical use of multi-functional new-healthy textiles, and popularity of many style's mixture at once. Open structure design consist of wrapover design, use of transparent materials. Modular design are layered styling, practical use of zipper and velcro. Emotion-oriented & multi-sensory design are constitute of fad of wrinkle materials, application of bright & vivid tone, personal color and family look. Environment-friendly design in contemporary well-being fashion are comprised in use of natural color, re-advent of natural floral motif and eco-design.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.217-228
• /
• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.