• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.203-225
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• 2004

We are sure that Abakanowicz positively assumes a position of members, which are represented the later modern fabric design. In sprite of his pervasive evaluation, we have doubt about his achievement because the preceding research is insufficient about argumentsuch as dependence on intuitive emotion study, conventional analysis of structure and insufficient inquiry of causa efficiens. We agree that basic structure of is dissipation. Though right and left symmetrical structure is similar, also that structure is different. We can't decide whether structure is unification structure, difference structure or mixture structure . We think that the time of confusing argument of his structure is changing period for disorganization trend. The result of this study confirm the research possibility about space organization with restructure analysis and verification for examining essence structure of sample text . The Thesis are concern that the different between paradigmatic appearances and syntagmatic, which exist . So, we can approach the meaning of system and find dominent point about constructional relationship on the works. The meaning of dominent point is understood about sexless trend or Androgyne, which are appeared Abakanowicz forth work period. The relationship structure which is mixed both issue show that inner issue of work is located the highest position. The paper presents confusing manufacture system, which are suggested man-woman sex and mixed meaning. The other result of this study are, 1. being known as Abakan algorism, Abakanowicz has new drafting idiom from his ancient belief. 2. we need to research the body texture of Abakanowicz with the trend of restructure of body study. 3. we need argue about gender study in relative with poster moderntheology related problem of sexlessness people and perfect sex-people.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.173-179
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• 2010

In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.

• 한국도로학회논문집
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.9-20
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• 2005

본 연구는 아스팔트 덧씌우기 포장에 나타나는 반사균열을 제어하기 위하여 노후된 시멘트 콘크리트 포장과 아스팔트 덧씌우기 포장 경계면에 보강재의 효과적인 부착 방법을 찾기 위하여 수행하였다. 이를 위한 부착재로는 RSC-4 유화아스팔트, 컴파운드, 불포화 폴리에스터 수지 (UPR) 등 3종류를 사용하였다. 또한 아스팔트 혼합물은 3종류의 밀입도 혼합물(AC 60-80, RLDPE 8%, PG 76-22)을 사용하였다. 보강 재료로서 유리섬유 그리드 하부에 직포가 부착된 것을 사용하였다. 복합모드 파괴(mode II)의 모사를 위한 촉진시험은 휠트랙킹 장비를 이용하여 수행하였다. 반사균열의 진전은 피로수명으로서 하중 사이클 수에 따라 측정하였고, 공시체의 변위는 각각 시험 공시체에 대하여 demec 게이지를 이용하여 측정하였다. 본 연구 결과, UPR 부착이 가장 효과적이었으며 다음은 RSC-4의 순이었다. 그러나 현장 적용성을 고려할 때 , RSC-4 유제가 보강 재료의 부착을 위해 적절한 선택으로 판단된다.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.31-37
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• 1977

The effects of surfactants and concentration of NaOH in surfactant solution on the removal of free fatty acid soil from cotton fabrics were investigated. Cotton fabrics were soiled with palm itic acid which is the most common fatty acid found in natural oily soil and washed in Lauder-ometer with various types of surfactant with or without NaOH. The rate of soil removal was estimated by analyzing palmitic acid contents in fabric before ar d after washing. Analysis of palmitic contents was made by extracting palmitic acid with azeotropic mixture of alcohol-benzene and the extracts were titrated with standard NaOH solution. It was shown that the types of surfactant are important factor in free fatty acid removal and the efficiency increases in the following order: SLS$90\%$ of initial sorption. In relation to the mechanism of detergency, the suspending and emulsifying power of surfactants were also examined. From the results of this experiments, it could be concluded that the soap formation with alkali and the suspending power of surfactant arc significant factors in free fatty acid soil removal, but the emulsifying power of it is neglizible.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권14호
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• pp.94-108
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• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• Composites Research
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.7-11
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• 2011

우레탄 수지 첨가에 의한 다이니마/비닐에스터 복합재료의 방탄효과 향상을 고찰하였다. 첫째로 우레탄 수지와 비닐에스터 수지를 스프레이 코팅하여 프리프레그를 제조하였으며, 수지함량을 21%로 조절하였다. 또한 혼합수지를 스프레이 코팅과 필름코팅으로 비교를 위한 프리프레그를 제조하였다. 그 다음 이들을 상온에서 1-2시간, 그리고 필요시 $100^{\circ}C$ 30분 정도 건조시켰다. 이들 프리프레그를 24층 적층한 다음 $120^{\circ}C$에서 5분 동안 정치 시킨 후 25분 동안 150 $kg/cm^2$ 압력하에서 경화 시켰다. 모의 파편탄(17 gr)을 이용하여 이들 복합재료의 방탄성능($V_{50}$)를 측정하였으며, UP127 및 EB8200으로 제조된 시편은 XSR10으로 제조된 시편에 비하여 각각 6.5 및 9.0 % 향상된 값을 보였다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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• pp.4-4
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 해도형 나일론 극세사 제품의 알칼리 용출 및 염색특성에 대한 고찰과 인공피혁, 스웨이드 조직 편물 등의 목적으로 함께 쓰이게 될 폴리우레탄과의 혼방 제품의 염색성 향상에 대한 연구를 진행하였다. 먼저, 해도형 나일론 극세사의 알칼리 용출거동을 확립하기 위해 NaOH 농도 및 온도에 따른 감량 특성을 확인하였으며, Red 색상의 산성염료와 반응성 염료 타입에 따른 염색특성 및 세탁 견뢰도 등을 고찰하였다. 또한, 폴리우레탄의 염착성을 향상시키기 위해 폴리우레탄 합성시 고분자 말단에 아민기를 함유하는 시료에 대한 염색성을 고찰하고, 폴리우레탄 함침 소재로서 쓰이는 인공피혁을 제조하여 염색 특성을 알아보았다. 해당 연구를 통하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻을 수 있었다. 해도형 초극세사의 알칼리 용출의 경우 $90^{\circ}C$에서 30분 유지시키는 것이 가장 적절한 조건이었으며, pH에 따른 염색성의 경우 레벨링 타입 염료와 반응성 염료의 경우 4~5, 밀링 타입과 함금속 염료의 경우는 5~6정도의 pH에서 우수한 염색성을 나타내었다. 산성염료의 경우 염색온도와 시간이 증가함에 따라 초극세사에 염착된 염료들은 이면의 일반 나일론사로 이동하는 현상이 증가하였지만 반응성 염료의 경우는 이러한 이염 현상이 나타나지 않았다. 한편, 농도가 증가함에 따라 산성염료는 우수한 빌드업성을 나타내는데 반해 반응성 염료는 4% owf이상에서는 염착량이 증가하지 않았으나, 세탁 견뢰도의 경우 반응성 염료로 염색된 시료가 가장 우수한 견뢰도를 나타내었다. 그리고 앞선 모든 염색실험에 있어서 일반 나일론사보다는 초극세사의 염착률이 더 높았고, 겉보기 색농도는 낮게 나타나는 현상을 확인할 수 있었다. 한편, 나일론/폴리우레탄 혼방제품에서 쓰이는 일반적인 폴리우레탄(RPU)과 아민 함량이 높은 폴리우레탄(APU)의 염색성을 알아본 결과 APU의 염색성이 훨씬 우수하였고, RPU에서 나타나는 현상인 염색의 진행에 따른 염료의 탈리가 나타나지 않았으며 견뢰도 또한 우수하였다. 인공피혁의 염색에서는 함침에 사용된 폴리우레탄 수지의 구조에 따라 염색성이 달라지는 현상을 확인하였으며, 특히 반응성 염료를 사용할 경우 인공피혁에서 일반적으로 문제가 되는 견뢰도 저하의 현상이 나타나지 않았다.