• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.71-86
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• 2009

This study examines plant patterns expressed on the fabrics during the Goryeo Dynasty and many countries in the Chinese continent and analyzes their symbolism and formativeness. This study deals with clothes which is one of the most fundamental aspects in a culture and plant patterns on them; it examines the overall formativeness of plant patterns in East Asia from the 10th century to the 14th century by studying plant patterns in the Goryeo Dynasty and the contemporaneous dynasties in the Chinese continent - Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Western Xia Dynasty, Liao Dynasty, Jin Dynasty and Yuan Dynasty. The plant patterns of each country were categorized by the type of plant. The composition and expression of plant patterns were examined and statistically analyzed. Small flowers were found in Goryeo fabrics twice more than other types that could be clearly identified, and peony was the most popular flower used in Chinese fabrics. In terms of composition of plant patterns, both Goryeo and Chinese fabrics had plant only patterns more frequently than the patterns mixed with animals or jewels. Regarding expression methods of plant patterns, the most common one in Goryeo fabrics was the petal-type, while the branch-type is the most common one in Chinese fabrics. The plant patterns of the Goryeo Dynasty show beauty of simplicity with minimalism and simplification while expressed with brilliant sold threads on dark background, such as purple or light green, so the overall feeling of fabrics was simple yet nobel.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.73-79
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• 2003

It is generally known that cotton treated with liquid ammonia has better soft handle, wrinkle recoveries and stability of appearance as compared with the alkali mercerized cotton. In this study, the various cotton fabrics treated with liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$, sodium hydroxide(NaOH) and sodium hydroxide(NaOH)/liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$ and untreated cotton fabric were investigated and compared in terms of physical properties and dyeing behavior. As the result, the strength of four kinds of cotton fabrics were similar. But the elongation of cotton treated with liquid ammonia increased slightly. Liquid ammonia treatment reduced the crystallinity of cotton and the crystalline structure of cotton transformed from cellulose 1 to mixed structure of celluloseIand III. In dyeing, dyeing rate decreased but equilibrium dye uptake increased by liquid ammonia treatment of cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.486-491
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of chemical finishes on performance characteristics of microfiber blend fabrics. A 60% polyester microfiber/40% cotton blend woven fabric was finished by ten chemicals: three silicone softeners, one fluorochemical, and their mixtures. Performance characteristics examined were abrasion resistance, and oil/water repellency. Chemical finishes containing dimethylpolysiloxane silicone performed better in fabric abrasion resistance than other chemicals. The correlation between abrasion wear and instrumental measures of fabric hand indicated that the breaking strength loss by abrasion related negatively to the coefficient of friction. This implied that the finished fabrics with lower surface frictional coefficient (slipperier) had higher breaking strength loss by abrasion. The microfiber structure of polyester did not appear to help in oil/water repellency due to the larger surface areas of the microfibers. The fluorochemical finished fabric had the most significant improvement on oil/water repellency. The silicone-only finishes, however, did not improve oil/water repellency. When mixed with the fluorochemical, silicone finishes showed improved oil/water repellency.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.233-238
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• 2006

This research confirmed the chemical structure of Curcumine and Carthamin pigments whose pigments were separated and refined from the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious which were natural dye using FT-IR, HPLC and so on. The cotton and the silk fabrics were dyed using a main pigment and then this research obtained the conclusion as it follows. The curcumine, the main pigment of Curcuma longa extracted from the mixed solvent of acetic anhydride and methanol ($CH_3OH$), had the maximum absorption wavelength at 504.0 nm and was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The Carthamin, the main pigment of Carthamus Tinctorious extracted from the mixed solvent of dichloromethane and methanol, had the maximum absorption wavelength at 420.0nm. This pigment was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The dyeing property of the main pigment about the silk fabrics was superior to that about the cotton in both the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious, and the dyeing property of Carthamus Tinctorious was superior to that of Curcuma longa.