This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.
Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.
Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.
Purpose: This study is aimed at developing of the flex resistance testing process at low temperature with the waterproof fabric to suit the military environment, and is designed to fit for the purpose of the waterproof materials in order to optimize the test method by finding out matters to improve from existing the test method and through previous studies. Methods: The test method, which has been applied to flex resistance of existing water-repellent materials, was improved and consequently, differentiated test results could be obtained according to the test temperature, sample size, and flexing method. Results: The testing of the total of 8 samples revealed that performance of the military requirement could hardly be met just by presenting the materials or 2~3 layers when the quality criteria for high functional water repellent fabrics were applied. PTFE(Polytetrafluoroethylene) is preferred to PU(Polyurethane) to be used in the extremely low-temperature environment, but durability under the low-temperature environment may be varied depending on film thickness or laminating technique even if the materials of waterproof films are identical. Therefore, in addition to the material or texture, the test method capable of reflecting durability under the low-temperature environment shall be suggested, and the newly designed test method proposed in this study was shown to suggest differentiated quality criteria by the material. Conclusion: The water resistance measurement and the test method following flex resistance with expanded range of flex will enable the differentiable test of the samples according to the number of repetition. This study is meaningful in that it suggests a differentiable test method capable of establishing a basis of deciding suitable material when selecting military goods made of water repellent material by properly improving the test method.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the aesthetic characteristics of check fashion of the 20th century and to analyze the formativeness for them shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Before the First World War, check patterns were used for S silhouette dresses and hobble dresses. During the two wars, they were used for garçonne style dresses and military suits. Check patterns were used for mini style in the 1960s, uni-sex style in the 1970s, and power suits in the 1980s. Especially after the 1980s, check patterns have followed the fashion trend of each season and appeared in retro styles. Consequently, the aesthetic characteristics of check dresses of the 20th century are traditionality, ornamentation and eclecticism. 2) Traditionality of check fashion shown in recent collections was implied in the classic styles like suits with its grey glen check, avant-garde styles like boxy coat with its dark blue tartan check, and so forth. Ornamentation was shown in the modern styles like jackets decorated with block check colored white and black, casual styles like bomber jackets with hound tooth check colored white and black, and so forth. Eclecticism was reflected in the romantic styles like one-piece dresses with hound tooth check colored white and light blue, elegant styles like low-cut dress with its dark blue window pane check, ethnic styles like long cape with gingham check colored white and black, and so forth.
Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.
With the rapid development of science and technology and the increased preference by consumers for high-function products, many products are being developed through the fusion of technologies in different industries. Among such fusion technologies, digital clothing which combines clothing with computer functions is being examined as a new growth item. The objectives of this study are to examine the concept, history, development, and market of intelligent clothing, in order to discuss future directions for the development of digital clothing technology. intelligent clothing (wearable computers) originated in the 1960s from the concept of separating computing equipment and attaching it to the body. This technology was studied intensively from the early 1980s and to the early 1990s. In the late 1990s, studies on wearable computers began to develop intelligent/digital clothing that was more comfortable and beneficial to users. Depending on the user and purpose, intelligent/digital clothing is now being developed and used in diverse industrial areas that include sports, medicine, military, entertainment, daily life, and business. Many experts forecast a huge growth potential for the digital textile/clothing market, and predict the fastest market growth in the field of healthcare/medicine. There exists a need to find solutions for many related technological, economic, and social issues for the steady dissemination and advancement of intelligent/digital clothing in various industries. Further, research should be continued on effective fusion technologies that reflect human sensitivity and that increase user convenience and benefits.
The object of this research is to perform the basic research for the development of selectively permeable membrane fabrics which is suitable for korean military in sense of embattlement. As a key factor of selectively permeable membrane fabrics which is suitable for korean military, this study selected the best PVA thickness and membrane selection for DMMP protection, pre-treatment method for conformational stability of face fabric and water/oil repellent process condition. Especially as the PVA coating thickness of the fabrics increase, peneration of DMMP decrease including water vapor permeation is lower. This study shows how physical features and permeability of chemical agents can be influenced by pre-treatment methods, the selection of selectively permeable membrane, the thickness of PVA etc. Results showed that outer shell / PVA / e-PTFE materials possessed performance with superior water vapor permeation (Over $3,000g/m^2/day$) and protective capability against DMMP vapor ($0.6{\mu}g/cm^2{\cdot}16hr$).
Suitability for the human body, freedom to move and thermal insulation are important design considerations in military clothing. This study investigates the performance and wearer-satisfaction of the functional inner winter uniform currently used in Korea; it is hoped that our data can inform the development of a future version. Interviews were conducted, in which the participants suggested various improvements. The uniforms were mainly worn for guard duty or as daily attire in cold weather. The participants chose how many layers to wear according to the current situation, rather than sticking to the layering recommended in the manual. Layering choices did not significantly affect combat efficiency but were found to affect wearers' comfort. Wearers' satisfaction was found to depend on the convenience of the clothing, whether it was in the appropriate size, freedom to move and thermal insulation. Also, this study suggests a problem with the current size system, as the analysis of size distribution, across all sizes, the range of current production is insufficient to cover the demand.
In continuous research of detecting highly toxic chemical warfare agents to ensure preparedness for the future battlefield, flexible and wearable sensor platforms with high sensitivity are still demanding. Herein we demonstrate a facile fabrication of polypyrrole-based chemiresistors on cellulose paper for the detection of nerve gas simulants. In order to optimize electrical properties of sensor platform, conducting polymer made of polypyrrole were first synthesized on flexible cellulose paper and interdigitated electrodes were formed thereon. Following confirmation of polypyrrole and/or oxime moiety through FT-IR analyses, electrical characteristics were measured in the various ratio of monomers between simple pyrrole and oxime-modified one. Typically for the optimized chemiresistor(2:8 molar ratio of simple pyrrole and oxime-modified one), eleven species of chemical warfare agents were examined and enhanced conductivity(104~105 order) was observed for three simulants(diethyl cyanophosphonate, diisopropyl fluorophosphonate and diethyl chlorophosphonate), which was mainly attributed to intermolecular hydrogen bonding, while no significant responses was recorded against sixteen common volatile organic chemicals.
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