• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.699-705
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• 1998

This paper surveys the effect of rice straw ash solution to the physical properties of Sappan Wood dyeing fabrics. In the quantitative analysis of rice straw ash solution, the quantities of absorbed ingredients in fabrics were increased by bath pull treatment but the amount of absorption(K/S value) was increased by bath pH4.5 treatment. This is related to the metal ion. Among the metal ion, effect of Fe iou and Al ion were related. In case added extracted dye solution to mordants, the color dye solution became dark and increased reddish. The changes of mechanical properties of fabrics tensile resilience, bending rigidity(B), compressional resilience(RC) were increased. Generally mechanical properties were increased by rice straw ash solution treatment, specially bath pH9 treatment. Rice straw ash solution treatment of dyeing fabrics made the improvement in tensile strength and elongation and in the amount of absorption, dye ability, color fastness, mechanical properties, tensile strength, elongation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.590-597
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• 2013

This study examined the change in the dyeability of natural dyes on cotton fabrics by a PEI (polyethyleneimine) pretreatment instead of mordants. Cotton fabrics were treated with PEI and the changes in the dyeability were shown by measuring the amount of PEI on cotton fabrics. Samples treated with PEI were dyed with two natural polychromatic dyes with a different affinity to cotton fibers: Alizarin Red S and Curcumin. The changes in dyeability by three variables (time, temperature and concentration of dyes) on cotton fabrics were analyzed by the K/S value to define optimum dyeing conditions. Subsequently, the PEI treatment improved the dyeability of cotton fabrics with both dyes of low and high affinity to cotton fibers. Thus, PEI could be a suitable heavy metal mordant replacement.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.263-268
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• 2005

Alpaca fibers have some distinct properties such as softness and warmth, which have not been fully understood in combination with the fiber internal structures. In the present investigation, the internal structures of alpaca fibers have been closely examined under the scanning electron microscope (SEM), especially in the longitudinal direction. The results showed that numerous pigment granules reside loosely inside pockets in brown and dark-brown alpaca fibers. These pigment granules were mainly distributed inside the cortical cells, the medullation regions as well as underneath the cuticles. Their size in the brown alpaca fibers was smaller and more uniformly round than in the dark-brown fibers. These granules in colored alpaca fibers loosen the bundle of cortical cells, providing many crannies in the fibers which may contribute to the superior flexibility, warmth and softness of the fibers. Moreover, there are no heavy metal elements found in the granules. The mordant hydrogen peroxide bleaching employed could eliminate the pigment granules and create many nano-volumes for further dyeing of fibers into more attractive colors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.890-898
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• 2014

This study focuses on the effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting conditions, changes of colorfastness, antibacterial properties and UV protective of silk fabric dyed with Laminaria japonica extracts. A natural colorant was extracted from Laminaria japonica using distilled water as extractants. According to the results, maximum dye uptake (K/S) were obtained at 100% V/V colorant concentration, $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min and pH 2. Silk fabric was dyed with Laminaria japonica extract at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment or post-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. The Laminaria japonica extracts produced yellow hue on silk fabric in pre-mordanting and manifested green yellow hue mordanted with $CuSO_4$ in post-mordanting method. Mordant $CuSO_4$ for silk fabric was found to give good light fastness (rating 4). UV protection property did not increase significantly upon mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.114-124
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• 2005

Based on the previous study, three types at synthetic fibers comprising nylon, PET, and acrylic fibers were investigated in this study. The effect at mordanting on the air-permeability and dyeing properties at fabrics was investigated. The effect at rinsing process on the air-permeability and color was quantitatively investigated by rinsing the mordanted fabric specimens 1$\sim$3 times after mordanting. The air-permeability changed peculiarly according to the characteristics of the tiber materials after mordanting. The air-permeability values of nylon and acrylic fabric specimens dropped significantly after mordanting. On the other hand, those of PET fabric specimens hardly changed after mordanting. The metal ions absorbed on the fibers of nylon and acrylic fabrics did not show the mordanting effect. Regardless of mordanting, cochineal dyestuff made direct links with the molecular chains in nylon fabrics exhibiting dark colors. After dyeing acrylic fabrics, the color did not develop at all, even though partial components of the cochineal dyestuff were absorbed apparently.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.429-436
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• 2010

Dyestuffs extracted from fifteen kinds of natural dyeing materials were researched on their antimicrobial performance against 3 kinds of bacteria and 2 kinds of fungi in order to develop conservation/storage materials of traditional and natural dyed papers. The three types of mordants were evaluated by using the same method and then mixed with the dyestuffs to research their antimicrobial performance. With those results, dyed paper was made by mixing mordants with 9 kinds of dyestuffs with excellent antimicrobial performance. Among the dyed papers, Cotinus coggygria, Coptis chinensis, Phellodendri amurense, Rhus javanica and Acer ginnala multiple mordant papers were found to have an antibacterial quality against fungi, while, in the insect repellent experiment using termites, Coptis chinensis and Phellodendri amurense dyed papers were found to have insect repellent qualities. Also, with regard to the research result about the affect of dyeing paper on other materials like metal, Coptis chinensis have relatively stable qualities. Also, the three types of dyeed paper by Cotinus coggygria, Coptis chinensis and Phellodendri amurense, were found to have a tendency to remove harmful gases. Not only can these dyed papers be used for making storage box for cultural properties to prevent various organic artifacts from bio-damaging, but they can also be utilized as functional finishing materials in various spaces.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.