• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.247-253
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• 2013

The enzyme-like catalytic functions of metal complex phthalocyanine derivatives those containing carboxylic acid groups could be applied as odor-removing systems and antibacterial systems. Pyromellitic dianhydride and 4-nitrophthalimide were used as starting material for synthesizing dinitro-tetracarboxylic acid iron phthalocyanine(compound 1). Then diamino-tetracarboxylic phthalocyanine(compound 2) was obtained by reduction of compound 1. For the formation of covalent bond with cellulose fiber, cyanuric chloride was introduced to the amino group of compound 2 by condensation reaction compound 3. The exhaustion method was employed for adsorbing compound 3 on cotton fiber. K/S values of each fabrics were measured by a CCM system and deodorizing rates were tested by a detector tube method for ammonia gas. K/S values of treated cotton fiber with compound 3 were arranged from 2.1 to 4.2 at $90^{\circ}C$ of exhaustion temperature. Deodorizing rates provided result of 81%, 84%, 88%, 91%, by passing time of 30 min, 60 min, 90 min, 120 min, respectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.166-175
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• 2005

Health effects associated with metal working fluid (MWF) exposures include dermatitis, respiratory disease, hypersensitive pneumonitis, and asthma. Frequently, occupational exposures to MWFs are controlled by ventilating an enclosure with an air cleaning unit that includes a fan preceded by various kinds of filtration. There are several kinds of air cleaning units used in machining centers. But the associated troubles have hindered from efficiently using these devices. The main problem is the relatively short period of filter replacement. The reason is that the air cleaning units usually do not have the de-oiling systems, thus leading the earlier clogging of filters and reducing the flow rate of hood. Thus, the first stage of study was conducted to overcome this problem by developing the new oil mist collector equipped with the easy de-oiling system. The principle of de-oiling is that the centrifugal force generated by spinning the drum covered by filter fabric separates oils from the filter fabric. It would be very similar to the spin-dry laundry. By adopting this de-oiling technique, the problems associated with the conventional oil mist collectors could be solved. Several tests/analyses were performed to make the lab-scale oil mist collector. The collection efficiencies and the de-oiling efficiencies of commercially available filter fabrics were tested. Subsequently, the endurance test were conducted by observing SEM photos of filter fabrics and measuring tensile strength/expansion coefficient after spinning the filter drum for 20 minutes at the different rotation speeds. By doing these experiments, the most appropriate filter fabric and rotation speed/duration were selected. Finally, the new oil mist collector was designed. In the near future, this device must be tested in the real machining center.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.924-936
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to discuss corsets that represent an undergarment that later became a popular outerwear. It discusses its forms and distinct characteristics to help create a unique fashion design and its execution. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The results of this study are summarized as follows: The standard look of corsets in modern fashion can be classified into styles of glamour, revival, and dismantle. The materials used vary from traditional fabrics such as satin or lace to newly developed materials such as metal or glass. Its presentation can also differ in that it may be used as an accessory with additional details, as an outerwear, as an extra decorative layer, or as a revealing innerwear by open outerwear. Characteristics of these various looks of corsets are; first, it redefines the revival of the traditional corsets through introduction of its historic elements and its compromise. Second, glamorous and feminine images are maximized through drastic and direct exposure by using tight lacing, a waist nipper or garter belts that emphasize a woman's curve. Third, it represents borderless dismantlement through experimental and irregular images using unconventional materials, new execution techniques, or alteration from the standard forms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.106-112
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to define optimal conditions for wool blend fabric dyeing using Rhus verniciflua extract. K/S value, surface color change, the fastness to light, fastness to dry-cleaning, metal mordanting effects and antimicrobial activities were investigated. The results were summarized as follows; As the storage time of Rhus verniciflua stokes dyeing solution was longer, K/S was improved. K/S value showed the highest one when dyeing temperature and time were at 100oC and 60 minutes respectively. As for the changes of pH values of the dyeing solution, fabric was dyed well with the pH value of acid or neutral. K/S value recorded the highest at pH6 and the lowest at pH10. Fastness to light showed the unmordanted fabric is 2.84, and Fe is 1.69 on color difference. Antibacterial activities of Rhus verniciflua dyeing solution recorded high figures in both dyed fabric with unmordanted and dyed fabric with mordanting.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.48-53
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to compare heavy metal concentrations in uncontaminated soil with those in soil influenced by industrial activities, and to investigate the relationship between change of heavy metal content and the kind of industry at the Iksan 1st Industrial Complex that has started since 1975. Soils sampled in 0-3㎝ and 3-6㎝ soil depth, respectively were analized for content of Cd, Cu, Ni, Pb and Zn. Change of heavy metal content in soil of the industrial complex were more accumulated 16 to 25% of Cd and Cu, 93% of Pb and Zn, respectively in samples compared with natural soil uncontaminated. But there was no different in Ni content between two soil. Distribution of Cd in soil layer of 0 to 3cm was the highest concentration of 5 ppm more at the textile industries, and then higher at the chemicals and the food processing industries. In 3 to 6㎝ soil layer Cd content was the highest concentration of 5 ppm more at the metal processing industries, and then higher at the textile industries. Cd accumulation in soil was different according to a kind of industry and soil depth. Cu content was the highest value of 400 ppm more in soil layer of 0 to 3cm at the manufacturing electric wires industry area and showed the accumulation phenomenon in soil layer 3 to 6cm at the ohmmeter, machines and electric wires industry area. Ni content was 35 ppm more in soil of the metal plating and processing industries regardless of soil sampling layer. Then it was 25 ppm more in soil of the building stones and semiconductor industries. Pb content was from 400 to 1000 ppm in soil of the chemicals and textiles industries regardless of soil sampling layer. Zn content was 1200 ppm more in soil of the chemicals and silk fabrics industries regardless of soil depth, and then lower in order to soil of leather processing${\le}$metal plating industries. In conclusion, changes of heavy metal kinds and content in soil of this industrial complex area were caused by the type or kinds of industrial activities. Changes of Pb and Zn content in soil were dominated at this area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.39
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• pp.243-280
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• 2006

At the Bujang-ri Site, Seosan, South Chungcheong Province, around 220 archaeological features, including semi-subterranean houses and pits of Bronze Age and semi-subterranean houses, pits, and burials of Baekje period had been identified and investigated. In Particular, mound burials No. 5 of 13 of Baekje mound burials yielding a gilt-bronze cap along with other valuable artifacts drew international scholarly attention. The gilt-bronze cap from the mound burial No. 5 is a significant archaeological data not only in the study of Baekje archaeology but also in the study of international affairs and exchange at that time. At the time of exposure, the gilt-bronze cap was already broken into a number of pieces and seriously damaged by corrosion, and hardening and urethane foam were necessary in the process of collecting its pieces. Ahead of main conservational treatments on cap, X-ray photograph and CT(computerizes tomography) were taken in order to examine interior structure of the cap and to decide appropriate treatments. In the five layers identified in the profile of cap, a textile layer was set between a metal and a layerof bark of paper birch for avoiding direct contact of the metal and the bark of paper birch. Analyses were executed for examining textile layer and a layer of fibroid material. According to microscopic analysis, while the textile layer consisted of the simplest plain fabric with one fold among three kinds of textile structures, the layer of fibroid material was mixed with two or three kinds of fibers. A comparative analysis with standard sample using FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) announced that both textiles and fabrics were hemp. Analysis of kind of the paper birch resulted in barks of paper birch with 15 fold. A metallographic microscope, SEM, and WDS were used for the analysis of microscopic structures of plated metal pieces. While amalgam plating was treated as a plating method, the thickness of the plated layer, a barometer of plating technique, was ranged from $1.72{\mu}m$ to $8.67{\mu}m$. The degree of purity of gold (Au) used in plating was 98% in average, and less than 1% of silver (Ag) was included.