• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권4호
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• pp.105-113
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1723-1729
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• 2006

드레이프성은 직물의 최종용도를 결정하는데 매우 중요한 요소이다. 본 연구에서는 남녀 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하여 수트직물로서의 선호도와의 관계를 연구하였다. 본 연구에 사용된 직물은 남자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 60가지, 가을/겨울 용 60가지, 여자 수트직물 중 봄/여름 용 70가지, 가을/겨울 용 142가지로 총 332종류를 사용하여 이들의 주관적 인 태, 수트직물로서의 선호도를 조사하였다. 주관적인 태는 자체 개발한 9점 척도의 질문지를 사용하여 측정하였으며 이 때 7점 척도를 사용하여 직물선호도도 함께 조사하였다. 주관적 인 태는 질문지를 구성하는 20개의 태표현 형용사를 요인분석을 통하여 용도에 따라 5가지의 요인으로 표현하였다. 용도에 따른 수트직물의 드레이프 특성을 분석하기 위하여 직물의 드레이프성을 Cusick 드레이프 측정기를 사용하여 측정하였다. 드레이프계수, 굴곡수, 굴곡의 높이, 굴곡의 파장 등을 측정하여 통계적으로 분석하였다. 이러한 드레이프 특성치들의 계절에 따른 차이와 남자와 여자직물의 차이를 살펴보았다. 남녀 수트직물 모두에서 드레이프성은 태 표현 요인으로 나타났으며 여성용 수트직물에서는 직물선호도와 관계가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 여성 춘하용 직물에서는 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 드레이프 계수에 통계적 인 유의한 차이는 없었으나 굴곡수와 굴곡의 파장에는 차이가 있어 드레이프의 형태에는 차이가 있었다. 여성 추동직물에서는 선호되는 직물의 드레이프 계수가 0.6-0.7로 너무 부드럽거나 뻣뻣한 직물은 선호하지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 남자의 수트직물에서는 주관적인 태를 나타내는 주요요인으로 추동직물에서는 드레이프성이 추출되었으나 춘하직물에서는 추출되지 않았다. 추동직물에서 선호되는 직물과 선호되지 않는 직물간에 측정된 드레이프특성에 차이가 나타나지 않아 소비자들이 느끼는 드레이프성을 좀더 민감하게 대변할수 있는 드레이프 측정 방법의 개발이 필요하다. 계절에 따른 차이로 남녀 모두에서 유의한 차이가 나타났으며 드레이프 계수는 여성춘하직물이 가장 높아 0.72였으며 남성 추동> 남성 춘하> 여성 추동의 순으로 감소하였다. 굴곡의 높이도 드레이프 계수와 같은 경향을 나타냈다. 남성복에서는 춘하직물이 추동직물보다 드레이프성이 좋았으며 여성복은 반대의 경향을 나타냈다. 남녀 직물간에도 차이가 있어 춘하직물은 남성 수트직물이 여성직물에 비하여 드레이프성이 좋았으며 추동직물에서는 여성 직물의 드레이프성이 더 좋았다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.15-19
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2019

This study analyzed the fabric and product size of the burn patient's custom compression garment and measured the pressure applied by the garment to assess whether proper pressure is being delivered for treatment. The test clothes were presented to the market by body size and commissioned with the same design. The subjects selected four people close to the average body size of men in their 20s determined by 7th Size Korea. The experiment was conducted by wearing a compression suit, performing activities and measuring changes in the pressure of the garment according to changes in posture. The fabric used for the compressive clothing was not ruptured even at 216 kPa, the elasticity recovery rate was measured between 80.5 and 94.5%. The product dimensions of the experimental clothing varied by up to 8cm from brand to brand, requiring the standardization of compression clothing. The experiment showed that four types of compression suit varied in pressure, and the pressure range, excluding the gastric arm (17.9mmHg), was between 2.5-14.1mmHg, which failed to meet the level of pressurization for treatment purposes. The clothing pressure in the chest area dropped when performing movements rather than standing still. This was interpreted to be a result of reduced the adhesion of the compression suit during operation. The peak pressure (31.68mmHg) and the lowest pressure (2.2mmHg) was noted in the scapula, indicating that no pressure was being transmitted on the vertebrae. The pressure of the garment on the right shoulder blade was elevated in a supine position. Because much time is spent laying down, it is necessary for the pattern design to accommodate for the increased clothing pressure on the shoulder blades. Standardization of the level of pressurization for burn patient's custom-made pressure suits for each stage of treatment is urgently required.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.28-34
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• 2005

The purpose of the research was to examine the effect of three different levels of enzyme treatment on the physical characteristics and the end-use suitability of the lyocell fabrics made with four different types of commercial wood pulp. The appropriate enzyme concentration for obtaining an optimum as well as consistent physical characteristics and fabric hand trait was 3 g/l for the concentration levels tested in the present investigation. Weight loss was more affected by higher enzyme con­centration than other physical properties. H2 was least affected by enzyme treatment for all three physical properties and fab­ric hand. 5 g/l concentration exhibited little difference from 3 g/l in the physical characteristics, whereas the KES-FB values indicated a significant loss of fabric hand in most PHV s with the 5 g/l concentration level. Among different garment parame­ters, all four fabric types were relatively inappropriate for the men's slacks (MS) fabric due to the lower hand value of koshi required by the MS parameter. However, despite the relatively low koshi values, high fukurami values required for men's dress shirt (MWDS) resulted in the highest THV among the four garment parmeters. The four fabric types, which represent the usage of four different wood pulps, in general seem to exhibit a higher applicability to women's winter thin dress (WWTD) than women's winter suit (WWS) garment parameter.

• 감성과학
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

본 연구는 남성 수트소재의 구성적 특성과 역학적 특성이 남성 수트소재의 시각적 질감 이미지와 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하는 것이다. 시판하는 남성용 검정색 계열의 춘하 소재 20종을 수집하여, 시각적 질감 이미지에 대한 주관적인 평가를 실시하였고, 피험자는 의류학과 대학원생과 의류관련 업체 종사하는 $20\~30$대 전문가 여성으로 구성하였다. 요인분석으로 "부피감", "신축감$\cdot$드레이프성", "강연감", "평활감"의 요인이 추출되었으며, "강연성"과 굽힘특성과의 관계를 제외한 역학적 특성 평가와 시각적 질감 이미지 평가가 일치하였다. 선호도에 가장 영향을 주는 것은 "평활감", 압축에너지(WC), 밀도, "강연성"이었으며, 시각적으로 매끄럽고 부드럽고 압축에 필요한 에너지가 적고 밀도가 성근 직물을 춘하 남성용 정장으로 선호하였다.