• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.203-219
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• 2007

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• 복식
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• 제51권7호
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• pp.21-33
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.723-739
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• 2011

This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.67-80
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• 1998

Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.