• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.45-63
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• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.85-106
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• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2004

The clouds-shaped pattern is originated from Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. It stands for good-luck, longevity and productivity. It has been used on its own or with other patterns since the ancient times. It also has various forms. It particularly was used more frequently than any other patterns as a typical good-luck pattern, representing auspiciousness, divine authority, and so on in Chosun dynasty. The pattern, according to its component parts, is classified as individual type and compound type, which is mixed with other patterns such as treasure pattern, plant pattern, letter pattern, or animal pattern. For both individual type and compound type, swastika-shaped cloud pattern was mostly used. For compound type, the pattern compounded of treasure pattern was extraordinarily used a lot. In terms of the arrangement, the most common arrangement methods were brick-shaped arrangement and dense type arrangement, the arrangement method that spreads the patterns all over the surface. Among the fabrics with clouds-shaped pattern, satin damask fabrics had the majority. Clouds-shaped pattern was used a lot in men's Po(coat), such as Dahnryoung, Jiknyoung, Chollik, etc. rather than in women's clothes. It was a typical pattern used in Dahnryoung, an official uniform that represented people in the highest class in Chosun dynasty. The divine power symbol of this pattern indicated the authority and dignity that the upper class people could have.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2001

Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.