• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.121-137
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• 1998

This paper is a study of clothing recorded in$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$.$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$is the oldest poetry, which written in early west-Zhou to mid Spring and Autumn Period. In this book, clothing is classified with men's women's and fabrics. But only the men's costume is included in this paper, and others will be studied later. As a result, men's clothing includes Qui, Mian Fu, Bian Fu, Yi Shang, Po, Ze, the armour, the belt ornaments, the hair ornaments and the hair styles, the shoes. 1. Qui is depicted at 11 poetries. It's materials are sheep, wolf, bear etc. The materials and color are differentiated according to the class. 2. Mian Fu is depicted at 20 poetries. There are depictions about the embroidered black garment and a red skirt, and also about inner blouse, Chong er, Chi xi etc. 3. Bian Fu is depicted at 5 poetries and there are three types. 4. Yi Shang is depicted at 9 poetries and classified with two types. One is twp piece style, and the other is one pieced style. 5. Po and Ze is depicted at 1 poetry. Po is sa long coat with lining and Ze is a under-wear. The armour and the helmet are depicted at 2 poetries. 6. The belt ornaments are classified with two styles. One is decorational and the other is practical. At 7 poetries they are depicted. 7. The hair ornaments includes a hat and a hair style. Also, the shoes are depicted and there are two styles. Such a results can clarify the men's costumes of Zhou and may be a raw datas about the costumes of old China.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.57-75
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• 2001

Since the Korean economic crisis in 1997, consumers are selecting goods that are more economical and more reasonably priced. Markets for wealthy people, however, have seldom been influenced by economic conditions. Consequently, 'noble marketing' is a new term that marketers should become acquainted with (Kim, 1998). The continuously expanding 'noble market' that generates high profit for marketers needs to be explored, especially the men's wear market. This study adopted a qualitative method (i.e., in-depth interview) with 16 male consumers each. These men who spent more than 3,600,000 won on apparel goods in 2000 and each man had purchased at least one item-suit, jacket, trousers, or coat-from a list of high-priced brands that were selected by the researcher. Findings imply that material or functional benefit of the high-priced apparel were not a critical determinant for choosing the brand. Rather, a socially well-established image for the brand name, especially in terms of psychological/symbolic appeal, played a more important role. This finding supported previous studies. Therefore, for high-priced men s wear, the role of promotion, including advertising or word of mouth, is critical; the image that advertisers should promote is one that characterizes the clothing, and ultimately the wearers, as dignified, legitimate, traditional, and upper class.