• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제43권5호
• /
• pp.742-752
• /
• 2019

This study analyzes the type of subjectivity of married women who have experienced pregnancy and childbirth. It also provides basic data on clothing development that can provide satisfaction to the physical comfort and appearance of pregnant women by understanding the conditions necessary for maternity wear design. This study used Q methodology. The type of recognition for maternity wear was classified into three types and explained 90.88% of total variance. Type 1 was comfort and activities style-oriented. They preferred the A-line shape with a size adjustable style and elastic material. In addition, they preferred designs using details such as wrinkles. Type 2 was a fitted body and modern style-oriented. It was analyzed that they prefer a pants style that is close to the body in a simple and modern style of monotone. Type 3 held a lot of space and was cute style-oriented. They preferred cute dress style along with a maternity suit that could cover the hip and abdomen. Maternity wear design is necessary to develop various designs considering preferences because it is classified into types that emphasize comfort, types that emphasize modernity that is close to the body, and styles that emhasize cute styles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제21권5호
• /
• pp.618-626
• /
• 2019

This study conducted basic studies to develop electromagnetic wave shielding maternity wear. We investigated electromagnetic wave shielding fabrics and products as well as surveyed actual wearing states for pregnant women aged 35 to 44 and women who gave birth within the past one year. Available electromagnetic wave blocking products for pregnant women were blankets, aprons, maternity belts, and underwear. These only cover the abdomen and it was hard to find out electromagnetic waves shielding maternity wear, which can enhance functionality and complement the body shapes of pregnant women. The aged mother responded pregnancy delay was mostly attributable to late marriage, career, financial difficulty and health problems. Major health threats to babies were high stress levels during pregnancy, followed by electromagnetic waves from electronic devices. They prioritized physical activity, design, functionality and safety when wearing maternity wear. When purchasing maternity wear, they emphasized design, price, materials and size. The most preferred clothing was one-piece dress; consequently, only 11.1% of them were satisfied with the quality of maternity wear with complaints mostly about design and price. A total of 63% of respondents tried to protect themselves from electromagnetic waves. Most aged mothers showed a positive intention on purchasing electromagnetic waves blocking maternity wear for babies with concerns dealing with safety of materials, prices, ease of laundry, and body complementing design.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권7호
• /
• pp.47-60
• /
• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권6호
• /
• pp.5-24
• /
• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권9호
• /
• pp.66-82
• /
• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.